CASTER & CAMBER
Caster and camber are critical to proper handling and tire wear. Neither adjustment should be attempted without the specialized equipment to accurately measure the geometry of the front end.
Except 1974-76 230, 240D, 280, 280C, 1975-76 300D, 380SL, 380SLC, 450SL and 450SLC Models
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
The front axle provides for caster and camber adjustment, but both wheel adjustments can only be made together. Adjustments are made with cam bolts on the lower control arm bearings.
The front bearing cam bolt is used to set caster, while the rear bearing cam bolt is used for camber.
1974-76 230, 240D, 280, 280C, 1975-76 300D, 380SL, 380SLC, 450SL and 450SLC Models
See Figures 4, 5 and 6
Caster and camber are dependent upon each other and cannot be adjusted independently. They can only be adjusted simultaneously.
Camber is adjusted by turning the lower control arm about the rear mounting, using the eccentric bolt. Bear in mind that caster will be changed accordingly.
When camber is adjusted in a positive direction, caster is changed in a negative direction, and vice versa. Adjustment of camber by 0- 15- results in a caster change of approximately 0- 20-. Adjustment of caster by 1- results in a camber change of approximately 0- 7-.
See Figure 7
Toe-in is the difference of the distance between the front edges of the wheel rims and the rear edges of the wheel rims.
To measure toe-in, the steering should be in the straight ahead position and the marks on the pitman arm and pitman shaft should be aligned.
Toe-in is adjusted by changing the length of the two tie-rods or track rods with the wheels in the straight ahead position.
Install new tie-rods so that the left-hand thread points toward the left-hand side of the car.
See Figures 8 through 16