Mitsubishi Pick-ups and Montero 1983-1995 Repair Guide

Doors

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figure 1


WARNING
The doors are heavier than they appear. Support the door from the bottom and use a helper during removal and installation. Do not allow the door to sag while partially attached and do not subject the door to impact or twisting motions.

Front Door

  1. Remove the door opening trim on Monteros.
  2.  
  3. On all Monteros, removal of the cowl side trim (kick panel) just in front of the door may be necessary for access to the wiring connectors.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the wiring harness (if any) running between the door and the body. Carefully pull the wiring free of the body.
  6.  
  7. Use a floor jack padded with rags or soft lumber to support the door at its lower midpoint. Use a felt tip marker to outline the hinge position on the door.
  8.  
  9. Remove the upper and lower hinge covers if any are present. Remove the small pin holding the door check arm in place.
  10.  
  11. Have a helper support the door, keeping it upright at all times. Remove the bolts holding the upper and lower hinge to the door. There will probably be alignment shims between the hinge and the door panel; take note of their location and placement for reassembly.
  12.  
  13. Using two people, lift the door clear of the car.
  14.  
  15. The door hinge may be removed from the body if necessary. On Pick-ups, the bolts are concealed. Use special tool MB990900-01 or equivalent. This is a specially shaped wrench built to do the job; removing the bolts will be difficult without this tool.
  16.  

To install:
  1. If the door hinge is removed from the body, reinstall it and tighten the bolts to 25-40 ft. lbs. (35-55 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Place the door in position and support it. Use the jack to fine tune the position until the bolt holes and matchmark (hinge outline) align.
  4.  
  5. Install the hinge bolts and nuts, and the alignment shims. Tighten the bolts to 12-19 ft. lbs. (17-26 Nm).
  6.  
  7. If all has gone well, the door should almost be in the original position. Refer to the door adjustment procedures to align the door and body. It may be necessary to loosen the hinge bolts and reposition the door; remember to retighten them each time or the door will shift out of place.
  8.  
  9. Once adjusted, connect the door check lever and install the pin. Install the hinge covers if any were removed.
  10.  
  11. Route the wiring harness(es) into the body and connect them to their leads.
  12.  
  13. Test the operation of any electrical components in the door (locks, mirrors, speakers, etc.) and test drive the car, checking the door for air leaks and rattles.
  14.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Front and rear door assembly on the Monteros. The front door assemblies on the Pick-ups are similar

Rear Door
  1. Remove the rear door scuff plate (sill plate).
  2.  
  3. Remove the lower trim from the center pillar. Disconnect the wiring harness running from the door to the pillar. Carefully pull the wire clear of the pillar.
  4.  
  5. Use a floor jack padded with rags or soft lumber to support the door at its lower midpoint. Use a felt tip marker to outline the hinge position on the door.
  6.  
  7. Remove the small pin holding the door check arm in place.
  8.  
  9. Have a helper support the door, keeping it upright at all times. Remove the bolts holding the upper and lower hinge to the door. Using two people, lift the door clear of the car.
  10.  
  11. The door hinge may be removed from the body if necessary.
  12.  

To install:
  1. If the door hinge is removed from the body, reinstall it and tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Place the door in position and support it. Use the jack to fine tune the position until the bolt holes and matchmark (hinge outline) align.
  4.  
  5. Install the hinge bolts and the alignment shims. Tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
  6.  
  7. The door should be in almost the original position. Refer to the door adjustment procedures to align the door and body. It may be necessary to loosen the hinge bolts and reposition the door; remember to retighten them each time or the door will shift out of place.
  8.  
  9. Once adjusted, connect the door check lever and install the pin. Install the hinge covers if any were removed.
  10.  
  11. Route the wiring harness(es) into the body and connect them to their leads.
  12.  
  13. Install the lower pillar trim and the sill plate.
  14.  
  15. Test the operation of any electrical components in the door (locks, speakers, etc.) and test drive the car, checking the door for air leaks and rattles.
  16.  

ADJUSTMENT



See Figures 2 and 3

When checking door alignment, look carefully at each seam between the door and body. The gap should be constant and even all the way around the door. Pay particular attention to the door seams at the corners farthest from the hinges; this is the area where errors will be most evident. Additionally, the door should pull against the weatherstrip when latched to seal out wind and water. The contact should be even all the way around and the stripping should be about half compressed.

The position of the door can be adjusted in three dimensions: fore and aft, up and down, in and out. The primary adjusting points are the hinge-to-body bolts.

Apply tape to the fender and door edges to protect the paint. Two layers of common masking tape works well. Loosen the bolts (using special tool MB 990900-01 if necessary) just enough to allow the hinge to move. With the help of an assistant, position the door and retighten the bolts. Inspect the door seams carefully and repeat the adjustment until correctly aligned.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Use the Mitsubishi tool MB990900-01 to loosen and remove the hinge bolts on the Pick-ups and Monteros



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: The striker plate can be moved up and down or in and out to adjust the latching alignment

The in-out adjustment (how far the door sticks out from the body) is adjusted by loosening the hinge-to-door bolts. Again, move the door into place, then retighten the bolts. This dimension affects both the amount of crush on the weatherstrips and the amount of "bite" on the striker.

Further adjustment for closed position and smoothness of latching is made at the latch plate or striker. This piece is located at the rear edge of the door and is attached to the bodywork; it is the piece the latch engages when the door is closed.

Although the striker size and style may vary between models or from front to rear, the method of adjusting it is the same:

  1. Loosen the large Phillips head screw(s) holding the striker. Know in advance that these bolts will be very tight; an impact screwdriver is a handy tool to have for this job. Make sure you are using the proper size bit.
  2.  
  3. With the bolts just loose enough to allow the striker to move if necessary, hold the outer door handle in the released position and close the door. The striker will move into the correct location to match the door latch. Open the door and tighten the mounting bolts. The striker may be adjusted towards or away from the center of the car, thereby tightening or loosening the door fit. The striker can be moved up and down to compensate for door position, but if the door is correctly mounted at the hinges this should not be necessary.
  4.  

Do not attempt to correct height variations (sag) by adjusting the striker.

  1. Additionally, many Mitsubishi models use one or more spacers or shims behind the striker. These shims may be removed or added in combination to adjust the reach of the striker.
  2.  
  3. After the striker bolts have been tightened, open and close the door several times. Observe the motion of the door as it engages the striker; it should continue its straight-in motion and not deflect up or down as it hits the striker.
  4.  
  5. Check the feel of the latch during opening and closing. It must be smooth and linear, without any trace of grinding or binding during engagement and release.
  6.  

It may be necessary to repeat the striker adjustment several times (and possibly re-adjust the hinges) before the correct door to body match is produced.

 
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