Mitsubishi Pick-ups and Montero 1983-1995 Repair Guide



See Figures 1 through 11

Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It would be impossible to catalog each tool that you would need to perform each and every operation in this guide. It would also be unwise for the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of tools on the theory that he may need one or more of them at sometime.

The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering together a good quality set of those tools that are used most frequently. Don't be misled by the low cost of bargain tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying to work on a car or truck with bad tools. Your monetary savings will be far outweighed by frustration and mangled knuckles.

Begin accumulating those tools that are used most frequently; those associated with routine maintenance and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the following tools for routine maintenance jobs (your Mitsubishi uses metric fasteners):

Metric wrenches and sockets, and combination open end/box end wrenches in sizes from 3mm to 19mm; and a spark plug socket.

If possible, buy various length socket drive extensions. One break in this department is that the metric sockets available in the U.S. will all fit the ratchet handles and extensions you may already have ( 1 / 4 in., 3 / 8 in., and 1 / 2 in. drive).

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Fig. Fig. 1: Various metric wrenches and sockets

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Fig. Fig. 2: An assortment of combination wrenches will be necessary

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Fig. Fig. 3: An assortment of pliers will be handy, especially for old rusted parts and stripped bolt heads

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Fig. Fig. 4: Various screwdrivers, a hammer, chisels and prybars are necessary to have in your toolbox

Jackstands for support.
Oil filter wrench.
Oil filter spout for pouring oil.
Grease gun for chassis lubrication.
Hydrometer for checking the battery.
A container for draining oil.
Many rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.

In addition to the above items there are several others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to have around. These include absorbent gravel or oil dry, a transmission fluid funnel and the usual supply of lubricants, antifreeze and fluids, although these can be purchased as needed. This is a basic list for routine maintenance, but only if your personal needs and desires can accurately determine your list of tools.

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Fig. Fig. 5: A hydraulic floor jack and a set of jackstands are essential for lifting and supporting the vehicle

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Fig. Fig. 6: A few inexpensive lubrication tools will make regular service easier

The second list of tools is for tune-ups. While the tools involved here are slightly more sophisticated, they need not be outrageously expensive. There are several inexpensive tachometer/dwell meters on the market that are every bit as good for the average mechanic as a professional model. Just be sure that the meter scale goes to at least 1,200-1,500 rpm on the tach scale and that it works on both 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engines. A basic list of tune-up equipment could include:

Tach/dwell meter
Spark plug wrench
Timing light (a timing light that works from the vehicle's battery is best).
Wire spark plug gauge/adjusting tools
Set of feeler blades

In addition to these basic tools, there are several other tools and gauges you may find useful. These include:

A compression gauge. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a faulty reading due to escaping pressure.
A manifold vacuum gauge
A test light
A Digital Volt-Ohmmeter (DVOM). This meter allows direct testing of electrical components and grounds.

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Fig. Fig. 7: Inductive type timing light

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Fig. Fig. 8: One type of dwell/tachometer

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Fig. Fig. 9: Compression gauge and a combination vacuum/fuel pressure gauge

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Fig. Fig. 10: Useful tools for servicing spark plugs: a set of feeler blades, a spark plug gap gauge/adjusting tool, spark plug wrench and socket

As a final note, you will probably find a torque wrench necessary for all but the most basic work. There are three types of torque wrenches available: deflecting beam type, dial indicator and click type. The beam and dial indicator models are perfectly adequate, although the click type models are more precise, and allow the user to reach the required torque without having to assume a sometimes awkward position to read the scale. No matter what type of torque wrench you purchase, have it calibrated periodically to ensure accuracy.

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Fig. Fig. 11: Views of the three types of torque wrenches

A torque specification for each fastener will be given in the procedure in any case that a specific torque value is required. If no torque specifications are given, use the following values as a guide, based upon fastener size:

Bolts marked 6T

6mm bolt/nut: 5-7 ft. lbs. (7-10 Nm)
8mm bolt/nut: 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm)
10mm bolt/nut: 23-34 ft. lbs. (31-46 Nm)
12mm bolt/nut: 41-59 ft. lbs. (56-80 Nm)
14mm bolt/nut: 56-76 ft. lbs. (76-103 Nm)

Bolts marked 8T

6mm bolt/nut: 6-9 ft. lbs. (8-12 Nm)
8mm bolt/nut: 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-27 Nm)
10mm bolt/nut: 27-40 ft. lbs. (37-54 Nm)
12mm bolt/nut: 46-69 ft. lbs. (62-94 Nm)
14mm bolt/nut: 75-101 ft. lbs. (102-137 Nm)