REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise the truck and support it safely on jackstands.
- Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold and discard the gasket. A new gasket must be used upon assembly. Disconnect the exhaust pipe bracket.
- Remove the fluid charging pipe from the A/T assembly.
- Remove the oil cooler pipe from the A/T assembly
- Plug any openings, for example fluid charging pipe hole, etc.
- Matchmark the U-joint and differential flange and disconnect them. Remove the center bearing mounting bolts and remove the driveshaft. Plug the transmission extension housing.
- Disconnect the transfer control linkage from the transfer.
The transfer case on 4WD models is integral with the transmission and fits inline between the transmission case and the extension housing. It is removed and replaced with the transmission.
- Disconnect the neutral safety (inhibitor) switch wires. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm, and the wire from the downshift solenoid. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing or the transfer case, as applicable.
- Remove the fluid filler tube.
- Disconnect the fluid cooler lines at the transmission. Use a flare nut wrench.
- Support the engine with a jack under the oil pan, placing a wooden block between the pan and the jack as a buffer. Also support the transmission with a jack. For 4-wheel-drive models, support the transfer case with the transmission.
- Remove the torque converter cover. Matchmark the converter and the drive plate for reassembly; they were balanced as a unit at the factory. Remove the bolts attaching the converter to the drive plate (flywheel). You will have to rotate the engine to do this, using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Remove the bolts for the rear engine mount and the crossmember. Remove the crossmember.
- Remove the starter.
- Remove the transmission-to-engine bolts. Lower the transmission (on 4-wheel-drive models lower the transfer case with the transmission) back and down, out from under the truck.
- Before installing the transmission (or transmission/transfer case for 4WD), check the drive plate run-out with a dial indicator. Turn the crankshaft one full turn. Maximum allowable run-out is 0.020 in. (0.5mm). Replace the drive plate (and ring gear) if run-out exceeds 0.02 in. (0.5mm); otherwise, reface the drive plate.
- After connecting the torque converter to the transmission, lay a straightedge across the face of the transmission and measure the distance from the top of the mounting bolt to the straightedge. It should be at least 1.38 in. (35mm) on all transmissions except the RE4R01A and RL4R01A, where it should be at least 1.02 in. (26mm).
- Install the torque converter to the drive plate. When installing the torque converter, be sure to line up the notch in the converter with the projection on the oil pump.
- Align the marks made during removal and bolt the converter to the drive plate, tightening the bolts to 29-36 ft. lbs. (39-49 Nm) except on the VG30E where the two shortest bolts are tightened to 22-29 ft. lbs. (29-39 Nm).
- Rotate the engine a few turns to make sure the transmission rotates freely without binding. The engine-to-transmission bolt torque is 29-36 ft. lbs. (39-49 Nm).
- Attach any connectors, components and linkage that was detached during the removal.
- Lower the vehicle, fill the transmission with the proper weight fluid, if necessary.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable, lower the vehicle, apply the parking brake and start the engine to check the fluid level in the transmission.
- Shut the engine off and move the gear selector lever through all positions to check for proper operation. Adjust the shift linkage and neutral safety switches.
- Re-start the engine, allowing it to idle. Shift from gear-to-gear. Each gear engagement should be felt in the selector lever in your hand by a slight "shock'' as you shift the transmission.
- When satisfied the transmission shifts normally, perform a road test.