Nissan Pick-ups and Pathfinder 1989-1995



See Figures 1 through 13

Naturally, without the proper tools it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It would be impossible to catalog each tool that you would need to perform every operation in this guide. It would also be unwise for the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of tools on the theory that one or more may be needed at sometime.

The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering together a good quality set of those tools that are used most frequently. Don't be misled by the low cost of bargain tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better quality. Forged wrenches, 6-point sockets and fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying to work on a truck with bad tools. Your monetary savings will be far outweighed by frustration and mangled knuckles.

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Fig. Fig. 1: Dwell/tachometer unit (typical)

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Fig. Fig. 2: Inductive type timing light

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Fig. Fig. 3: Compression gauge and a combination vacuum/fuel pressure test gauge

Certain tools, plus a basic ability to handle them, are required to get started. A basic tool set and a torque wrench, are good for a start. Begin accumulating those tools that are used most frequently (tools associated with routine maintenance/tune-up and engine repair). In addition to the normal assortment of screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the following tools for routine maintenance:

Metric wrenches, sockets and combination open end/box end wrenches in sizes from 3-19mm, and a spark plug socket ( 5 / 8 inch or 16mm). If possible, buy various length socket drive extensions. One break in this department is that the metric sockets available in the U.S. will fit SAE ratchet handles and extensions you may already have ( 1 / 4 in., 3 / 8 in., and 1 / 2 in. drive).
Jackstands for support.
Oil filter wrench.
Oil filler spout or funnel.
Grease gun for chassis lubrication.
Hydrometer or battery tester for checking the battery.
A low flat pan for draining oil.
Lots of rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.

In addition to the above items, there are several others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to have around. These include oil-dry, a transmission fluid funnel and the usual supply of lubricants and fluids, although these can be purchased as needed. This is a basic list for routine maintenance, but only your personal needs and desires can accurately determine your list of tools.

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Fig. Fig. 4: All but the most basic procedure will require an assortment of ratchets and sockets

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Fig. Fig. 5: In addition to ratchets, a good set of wrenches and hex keys will be necessary

The second list of tools is for tune-ups. While these tools are slightly more sophisticated, they need not be outrageously expensive. There are several inexpensive tach/dwell meters on the market that are every bit as good for the average mechanic as a costly professional model. Just be sure that it goes to at least 1200-1500 rpm on the tach scale and that it works on 4 and 6-cylinder engines. A basic list of tune-up equipment could include:

Tach/dwell meter.
Spark plug wrench.
Timing light (a DC light that works from the truck's battery is best).
Wire spark plug gauge/adjusting tools.

Here again, be guided by your own needs. In addition to these basic tools, there are several other tools and gauges you may find useful. These include:

A compression gauge. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a faulty reading due to escaping pressure.
A manifold vacuum gauge.
A test light.
An DVOM digital volt-ohmmeter. This meter allows direct testing of electrical components and grounds.

As a final note, you will probably find a torque wrench necessary for most work. The beam type models are perfectly adequate, although the newer click (breakaway) type are more precise, and you don't have to crane your neck to see a torque reading in awkward situations. The breakaway torque wrenches are more expensive and should be recalibrated periodically.

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Fig. Fig. 6: A hydraulic floor jack and a set of jackstands are essential for lifting and supporting the vehicle

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Fig. Fig. 7: An assortment of pliers will be handy, especially for old rusted parts and stripped bolt heads

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Fig. Fig. 8: Various screwdrivers, a hammer, chisels and prybars are necessary to have in your toolbox

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Fig. Fig. 9: Many repairs will require the use of a torque wrench to assure the components are properly fastened

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Fig. Fig. 10: Although not always necessary, using specialized brake tools will save time

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Fig. Fig. 11: A few inexpensive lubrication tools will make regular service easier

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Fig. Fig. 12: Various pullers, clamps and separator tools are needed for the repair of many components

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Fig. Fig. 13: A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service

Torque specification for each fastener will be given in the procedure whenever a specific torque value is required. If no torque specifications are given, use the following values as a guide, based upon fastener size:

Bolts marked 6T

6mm bolt/nut: 5-7 ft. lbs. (7-10 Nm)
8mm bolt/nut: 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm)
10mm bolt/nut: 23-34 ft. lbs. (31-46 Nm)
12mm bolt/nut: 41-59 ft. lbs. (56-80 Nm)
14mm bolt/nut: 56-76 ft. lbs. (76-103 Nm)

Bolts marked 8T

6mm bolt/nut: 6-9 ft. lbs. (8-12 Nm)
8mm bolt/nut: 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-27 Nm)
10mm bolt/nut: 27-40 ft. lbs. (37-54 Nm)
12mm bolt/nut: 46-69 ft. lbs. (62-94 Nm)
14mm bolt/nut: 75-101 ft. lbs. (102-137 Nm)