REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 and 2
- Raise and support the vehicle safely.
- Remove the rear wheels.
- Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
- Using needlenose pliers, straighten and pull out the cotter pin, then take off the adjusting cap and wheel bearing locknut.
During removal, be careful to avoid damaging O-ring in dust cap. A circular clip holds the inner wheel bearing in the brake hub.
- Remove drum with bearing inside.
- Remove bearing outer race from drum using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
- Install the bearing outer race as follows: Grind about 0.010 in. (2.5mm) from the outside circumference of the old outer bearing race. Use this homemade tool as a race installer tool. Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the brake drum and install the drum on the vehicle.
The rear wheel bearings must be adjusted after installation.
- Install the outer bearing assembly, wheel bearing locknut, adjusting cap and a new cotter pin.
- Install the center cap and the wheel assembly. To remove the wheel bearing races, knock them out of the brake drum using a suitable brass punch.
EXCEPT 4WD SENTRA
See Figures 3 and 4
To perform this procedure, a large 3-ton (3,000 kg) press and special tools ST33220000, J25804-01 and J26082, or equivalent, are required. The press must be able to measure pressure. You might be able to engage the services of a machine shop to perform this procedure.
- Raise the car and support it securely via the body. Remove the rear wheels.
- Remove the brake caliper and hang by a piece of wire (1991-92 Sentra). Remove the wheel bearing locknut. Then, remove the brake drum/hub or disc/hub and bearing assembly from the spindle.
- Invert the brake drum or disc and carefully pry the circlip out of the inside diameter of the drum. Then, utilize ST33220000 J25804-01 and a press to force the bearing assembly down and out of the brake drum by pressing it toward the inside of the drum or disc with the drum suspended on blocks.
- Check the circlip for cracks or any sign that it has been sprung (bent inward). Have the hub inspected for cracks by a machine shop equipped with a magnetic or dye test. Do the same with the spindle.
- Apply multipurpose grease to the seal lip. Then, press a new bearing assembly into the hub from the inside using the press and ST33220000 J26082. Be sure not to press the inner race of the wheel bearing assembly and to carefully avoid damaging the grease seal. If the bearing cannot be pressed in with a pressure of 3 tons (3,000 kg), replace the hub.
- Install a new circlip into the groove in the drum/hub or disc.
- Install the hub onto the spindle. Install the wheel bearing locknut and tighten it to 137-188 ft. lbs. (186-256 Nm).
See Figure 5
To perform this procedure, you will need special tools designed to be used with a hammer to drive inner and outer bearing races from the rear knuckles of 4WD Sentras. You will also need a large press, and a tool designed to transfer the power of that press to the bearing to install it. Also needed is a special tool to transfer the power of a 5.5 ton (5,000 kg) press to the bearing and such a press to apply pressure to the bearing to test preload.
- Raise the car and support it by the body. Remove the rear wheels.
- Disconnect the brake line at the connection and plug the openings.
- Cover the driveshaft rubber boots with rags. Tap the end of the driveshaft very lightly with a hammer, block of wood, and a suitable broad ended punch to free the driveshaft from the knuckle.
- Matchmark the rear bolt installation angle to retain alignment. Then, remove the nuts and bolts fastening the control arm to the knuckle. Unbolt the radius rod from the knuckle. Unbolt the knuckle from the strut and remove it.
- Mount the knuckle in a vise and drive the hub out of the knuckle via the inner race with a tool such as J25804-01 and hammer.
- Use a press to force the outboard bearing inner race from the hub. You will need blocks, a press, and ST30031000. Remove the other grease seal.
- With the knuckle in a vise, drive the bearing inner race and grease seal out of the knuckle. Use an appropriate, cone shaped special tool and hammer.
- Cautiously remove the inner and outer circlips from the knuckle with pointed instruments.
- Drive the bearing outer race out of the knuckle with a hammer and appropriate, cone shaped special tool.
- Have a machine shop inspect the knuckle for cracks with a magnetic or dye process. Replace radius rod or transverse link bushings, if necessary. Inspect the C-clips and replace if they are cracked or sprung.
- Install the inner C-clip into the knuckle, making sure it seats in its groove. Then, press a new bearing outer race into the knuckle with a suitable tool and press, without using any lubricant.
- Apply wheel bearing grease to each bearing, working the grease thoroughly into the areas between the rollers. Also apply the grease to the lip of the grease seal. Install the bearings and grease seal into the knuckle.
- Install the outer C-clip into the groove in the knuckle. Then, use an appropriate tool to apply the pressure to the outer race and tap it to install the race into the hub.
- Now, install a special tool onto the top of the hub that will drive the hub onto the knuckle by applying pressure on the inner race only. Support the hub at the center only. Then, place the assembly in a press and press the hub into the knuckle with about 3 tons (3,000 kg) force. Now, increase the pressure on the press to 5.5 tons (5,000 kg). Spin the knuckle several turns in each direction to make sure the wheel bearing operates smoothly (preload is not excessive).
- Coat the lips of the inner grease seal with bearing grease and then install it into the knuckle.
- Slide the driveshaft splines through the center of the wheel hub. Bolt the knuckle onto the strut and torque the bolts to 72-87 ft. lbs. (98-118 Nm).
- Install the bolts attaching the transverse link to the steering knuckle. Align the matchmarks made earlier to maintain rear wheel alignment. Install the nuts and torque them to 72-87 ft. lbs. (98-118 Nm).
- Connect the brake line. Thoroughly bleed the brake system as described in the next section. Then, install the wheel bearing locknut, have a helper hold the brake pedal down, and torque the locknut to 174-231 ft. lbs. (237-314 Nm). Check wheel bearing axial (end) play with a dial indicator. It should be 0.05mm or less. Install the wheels.
- Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
- Remove the wheel.
- Remove the bearing dust cap with a pair of channel locks pliers.
- Remove the cotter pin and retaining nut cap (if equipped), dispose of the cotter pin.
- Tighten the wheel bearing nut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm).
- Rotate the drum back and forth a few revolutions to snug down the bearing.
- After turning the wheel, recheck the torque of the nut, then loosen it 90° from its position.
- Install the retaining nut cap (if equipped). Align the cotter pin holes in the nut or nut cap with the hole in the spindle by turning the nut no more than 15° to align the holes.
- Install the cotter pin, bend up its ends and install the dust cap.
- Raise and support the vehicle safely.
- Remove wheel bearing locknut while depressing brake pedal.
- Disconnect brake hydraulic line and parking brake cable.
- Separate driveshaft from knuckle by slightly tapping it with suitable tool. Cover axle boots with waste cloth so as not to damage them when removing driveshaft.
- Remove all knuckle retaining bolts and nuts. Make a matchmark before removing the adjusting pin.
- Remove knuckle and inner and outer circular clips. Remove wheel bearings.
To remove the wheel bearing races, knock them out of the knuckle using a suitable brass punch.
- Install the knuckle with wheel bearings to the driveshaft.
- Connect brake hydraulic line and parking brake cable.
- Install the wheel bearing locknut.
- Bleed the brakes.