Nissan Z - ZX 1970-1988 Repair Guide

Wheel Bearings

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The front wheels each rotate on a set of opposed, tapered roller bearings, as shown in the accompanying illustration. The grease retainer at the inside of the hub prevents lubricant from leaking into the brake drum.

REMOVAL, REPACKING, INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT



See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16

Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and not to do:

Remember to DO the following:


Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing.
 



Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one.
 



Work with clean tools in clean surroundings.
 



Use clean, dry canvas gloves, or at least clean, dry hands.
 



Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must.
 



Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry.
 



Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up.
 



Use clean rags to wipe bearings.
 



Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use.
 



Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing.
 

Do NOT do the following:


Don't work in dirty surroundings.
 



Don't use dirty, chipped or damaged tools.
 



Try not to work on wooden work benches or use wooden mallets.
 



Don't handle bearings with dirty or moist hands.
 



Do not use gasoline for cleaning; use a safe solvent.
 



Do not spin-dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged.
 



Do not spin dirty bearings.
 



Avoid using cotton waste or dirty cloths to wipe bearings.
 



Try not to scratch or nick bearing surfaces.
 



Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time.
 

  1. Pry off the grease cap.
  2.  
  3. Remove the cotter pin, the adjusting cap, the wheel bearing locknut and the lockwasher.
  4.  
  5. Remove the hub/rotor assembly from the spindle. Remove the seal and bearings from the hub.
  6.  
  7. To inspect the wheel bearings:
    1. Remove all of the old grease with solvent.
    2.  
    3. Put the bearings back in position in the hub and slowly rotate to check for smooth rotation; check for roughness, burrs, discoloration or other defects. If any defects are noted, supply new parts.
    4.  

  8.  
  9. Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive the outer bearing races from the hub.
  10.  



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Fig. Fig. 1: Use a suitable prytool to remove the protective cap



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Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the rubber seal from around the cap; position a new seal before installing the cap



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Fig. Fig. 3: With the cap removed, the cotter pin and retainer cap are accessible



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Fig. Fig. 4: Bend the cotter pin until straight ...



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Fig. Fig. 5: ... then pull it out



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Fig. Fig. 6: Slide off the retainer cap



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Fig. Fig. 7: Loosen the wheel bearing nut ...



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Fig. Fig. 8: ... and remove to free the wheel bearing components



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Fig. Fig. 9: Remove the washer and outer wheel bearing



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Fig. Fig. 10: Slide the rotor assembly off



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Fig. Fig. 11: Wheel bearing components



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Fig. Fig. 12: Use a suitable tool to remove the outer race



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Fig. Fig. 13: Use a race installation tool to install the outer race



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Fig. Fig. 14: Grease points in the hub



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Fig. Fig. 15: Checking the wheel bearing rotational torque



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Fig. Fig. 16: After installation, use a punch around the edge of the protective cap to set it in place

  1. Using the installation tool No. ST35300000 or equivalent, drive the outer races into the wheel hub.
  2.  
  3. Install a new grease seal and grease in the wheel hub.
  4.  

Fill the spaces between the rollers and the pocket in the seal lip with wheel bearing grease. Fill the hub and hub cap with grease as indicated in the illustration.

  1. To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. Tighten the locknut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). Turn the hub back and forth several turns to seat the bearing and retighten the locknut to the same figure.
  2.  
  3. Turn the locknut back out 60-75° until the nut is aligned properly for the cotter pin.
  4.  
  5. Rotate the hub back and forth several times, then measure the starting torque at the wheel hub bolt with a spring scale. It should be as follows:

    1911-78 models: 3.5-7.4 inch lbs. (0.40-0.83 Nm) with new parts or 0.9-3.9 inch lbs. (0.10-0.45 Nm) with used parts
     
    1979-84 models: less than 4.0 inch lbs. (0.44 Nm) with new parts or 1.5 inch lbs. (0.17 Nm) with used parts
     
    1985-88 models: 1.54-3.29 inch lbs. (0.17-0.37 Nm) with new parts or 0.37-1.74 inch lbs. (0.041-0.19 Nm) with used parts
     

  6.  

 
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