The front wheels each rotate on a set of opposed, tapered roller bearings, as shown in the accompanying illustration. The grease retainer at the inside of the hub prevents lubricant from leaking into the brake drum.
REMOVAL, REPACKING, INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16
Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and not to do:Remember to DO the following:
Do NOT do the following:
- Pry off the grease cap.
- Remove the cotter pin, the adjusting cap, the wheel bearing locknut and the lockwasher.
- Remove the hub/rotor assembly from the spindle. Remove the seal and bearings from the hub.
To inspect the wheel bearings:
- Remove all of the old grease with solvent.
- Put the bearings back in position in the hub and slowly rotate to check for smooth rotation; check for roughness, burrs, discoloration or other defects. If any defects are noted, supply new parts.
- Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive the outer bearing races from the hub.
- Using the installation tool No. ST35300000 or equivalent, drive the outer races into the wheel hub.
- Install a new grease seal and grease in the wheel hub.
Fill the spaces between the rollers and the pocket in the seal lip with wheel bearing grease. Fill the hub and hub cap with grease as indicated in the illustration.
- To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. Tighten the locknut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). Turn the hub back and forth several turns to seat the bearing and retighten the locknut to the same figure.
- Turn the locknut back out 60-75° until the nut is aligned properly for the cotter pin.
Rotate the hub back and forth several times, then measure the starting torque at the wheel hub bolt with a spring scale. It should be as follows:
1911-78 models: 3.5-7.4 inch lbs. (0.40-0.83 Nm) with new parts or 0.9-3.9 inch lbs. (0.10-0.45 Nm) with used parts