Nissan Z - ZX 1970-1988 Repair Guide

Brake Disc (Rotor)

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See Figures 1, 2 and 3



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Fig. Fig. 1: Front rotor, hub and bearing assembly-1979-83 models



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Fig. Fig. 2: Front rotor, hub and bearing assembly-1984-88 non-turbo models



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Fig. Fig. 3: Front rotor, hub and bearing assembly-1987-88 turbo models

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



All Models

See Figures 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8

  1. Refer to the Caliper removal and installation procedures, in this section and remove the caliper.
  2.  
  3. Pry off the grease cap.
  4.  
  5. Remove the cotter pin, the adjusting cap, the wheel bearing locknut and the lock washer.
  6.  
  7. Remove the hub/rotor assembly from the spindle. Remove the seal and bearings from the hub.
  8.  
  9. Remove the rotor-to-hub bolts and the rotor.
  10.  



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Fig. Fig. 4: Removing the outer race seal



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Fig. Fig. 5: Installing the outer race seal



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Fig. Fig. 6: Grease points in the hub assembly



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Fig. Fig. 7: Checking wheel bearing rotational torque



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Fig. Fig. 8: Wheel bearing components

  1. To inspect the wheel bearings:
    1. Remove all of the old grease with solvent.
    2.  
    3. Put the bearings back in position in the hub and slowly rotate to check for smooth rotation; check for roughness, burrs, discoloration or other defects. If any defects are noted, supply new parts.
    4.  

  2.  
  3. Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive the outer bearing races from the hub.
  4.  
  5. Using installation tool No. ST35300000 or equivalent, drive the new outer races into the wheel hub.
  6.  
  7. Install a new grease seal and grease in the wheel hub. Tighten the rotor-to-hub bolts to 28-38 ft. lbs. (39-53 Nm) for 1970-79, 40-54 ft. lbs. (55-75 Nm) for 1980-83 or 36-51 ft. lbs. (49-69 Nm) for 1984 and later.
  8.  

Fill the spaces between the rollers and the pocket in the seal lip with wheel bearing grease. Fill the hub and hub cap with grease as indicated in the illustration.

  1. Refer to the Caliper removal and installation procedures in this section, and install the caliper.
  2.  
  3. Tighten the locknut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). Turn the hub back and forth several turns to seat the bearing and retighten the locknut to the same figure.
  4.  
  5. Turn the locknut back out at least 60° and up to 75° until the nut is aligned properly for the cotter pin.
  6.  
  7. Rotate the hub back and forth several times, then measure the starting torque at the wheel hub bolt with a spring scale. It should be 3.5-7.4 inch lbs. (0.40-0.83 Nm) with new parts or 0.9-3.9 inch lbs (0.10-0.45 Nm) with used parts on 1970-78 models or less than 4.0 inch lbs. (17.7 Nm) with new parts or 1.5 inch lbs. (6.9 Nm) with used parts on 1979-84 models and 1.54-3.29 inch lbs. (6.86-14.61 Nm) with new parts or 0.37-1.74 inch lbs. (1.67-7.75 Nm) with used parts on 1985-88 models. Bleed the hydraulic system.
  8.  

INSPECTION



See Figure 9

  1. Refer to the Brake Caliper removal and installation procedures in this section, and remove the caliper.
  2.  
  3. Measure the rotor run-out by mounting a dial indicator so that deflection at the center of pad contact surface can be measured. Maximum deflection is 0.008 in. (0.2mm) for 1970-78 models, 0.004 in. (0.1mm) for 1979-82 models, or 0.003 in. (0.07mm) for 1983-88 models. If necessary, adjust the wheel bearing.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 9: Measure the rotor run-out

  1. Measure the thickness of the rotor all the way around with a micrometer. Maximum variation should be 0.001 in. (0.03mm) with a used rotor and 0.003 in. (0.07mm) with a new rotor.
  2.  
  3. If the rotor is machined, the minimum thickness is 0.41 in. (10.5mm) for 1970-78 models, 0.70 in. (18.0mm) for 1979-83 models, 0.80 in. (20.0mm) for 1984-86 or 0.93 in. (24.0mm) for 1987-88. Replace the disc if the minimum thickness will be less after machining.
  4.  

 
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