NEVER remove the pressure cap while the engine is running or personal injury from scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If possible, wait until the engine has cooled to remove the pressure cap. If this is not possible, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure cap and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, still using the cloth, turn and remove the cap.
The vehicles covered in this manual come from the manufacturer with both the worm-drive hose clamp and the spring type hose clamp. The worm-drive is a clamp that uses a screw or bolt held against the band to hold tension. The spring type maintains constant tension by having a spring steel band. It may be necessary to replace the clamps with the exact replacement due to space limitations and accessibility
Use care when removing or installing the spring type clamps. Special constant tension clamp pliers are available. If theses pliers are not used, the tool may slip and cause bodily harm.
- Always drain the cooling system into a suitable container (if the coolant is to be reused, make sure the container is clean) by loosening the draincock on the bottom of the radiator.
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the hose that requires replacement.
- Rotate the screw or bolt on the worm-drive clamps counterclockwise to loosen.
- Squeeze the tabs on the spring type together to remove tension.
- Twist, pull and slide the hose off the radiator, water pump, thermostat or heater connection.
If the hose is stuck at the connection, do NOT try to insert a screwdriver or other sharp tool under the hose end in an effort to free it, as the connection and/or hose may become damaged. Heater connections especially may be easily damaged by such a procedure. If the hose is to be replaced, use a single-edged razor blade to make a slice along the portion of the hose that is stuck on the connection, perpendicular to the end of the hose. Do NOT cut deep so as to prevent damaging the connection. The hose can then be peeled from the connection and discarded.
- Clean both of the hose mounting connections. Inspect the condition of the hose clamps and replace them, if necessary.
- Dip the ends of the new hose into clean engine coolant to ease installation.
- Position the clamps on the new hose.
- Coat the connection surfaces with a water resistant sealer and slide the hose into position. Make sure the hose clamps are located beyond the raised bead of the connector (if equipped) and centered in the clamping area of the connection.
- Tighten the worm-drive clamps to 20-30 inch lbs. (2-3 Nm). Do NOT overtighten.
- Be sure the radiator draincock is closed, then fill the cooling system.
If you are checking for leaks with the system at normal operating temperature, BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to touch any moving or hot engine parts. Once temperature has been reached, shut the engine OFF, and check for leaks around the hose fittings and connections that were removed earlier.
- Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Check for leaks.