Metal lines and rubber brake hoses should be checked frequently for leaks and external damage. Metal lines are particularly prone to crushing and kinking under the car. Any such deformation can restrict the proper flow of fluid and therefore impair braking at the wheels. Rubber hoses should be checked for cracking or scraping; such damage can create a weak spot in the hose and it could fail under pressure.
Any time the lines are removed or disconnected, extreme cleanliness must be observed. Clean all joints and connections before disassembly (use a stiff bristle brush and clean brake fluid); be sure to plug the lines and ports as soon as they are opened. New lines and hoses should be flushed clean with brake fluid before installation to remove any contamination.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Elevate and safely support the car on jackstands.
- Remove the wheel(s) as necessary for access.
- Clean the surrounding area at the joints to be disconnected.
- Place a catch pan under the joint to be disconnected.
- Using two wrenches (one to hold the joint and one to turn the fitting), disconnect the hose or line to be replaced.
- Disconnect the other end of the line or hose, moving the drain pan if necessary. Always use two wrenches if possible.
- Disconnect any retaining clips or brackets holding the line and remove the line.
- If the system is to remain open for more time than it takes to swap lines, tape or plug each remaining line and port to keep dirt out and fluid in.
- Install the new line or hose, starting with the end farthest from the master cylinder. Connect the other end, then confirm that both fittings are correctly threaded and turn smoothly using finger pressure. Make sure the new line will not rub against any other part. Brake lines must be at least 1 / 2 in. (13mm) from the steering column and other moving parts. Any protective shielding or insulators must be reinstalled in the original location.
- Using two wrenches as before, tighten each fitting until snug.
- Install any retaining clips or brackets on the lines.
- Refill the brake reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid.
- Bleed the brake system.
- Install the wheels and lower the car to the ground.
BRAKE PIPE FLARING
Flaring steel lines is a skill which needs to be practiced before it should be done on a line which is to be used on a vehicle. A special flaring kit with double flaring adapters is required. It is essential that the flare is formed evenly to prevent any leaks when the brake system is under pressure. Only steel lines, not copper lines, should be used. It is also mandatory that the flare be a double flare. With the supply of parts available today, a pre-flared steel brake line should be available to fit your needs. Due to the high pressures in the brake system and the serious injuries that could occur if the flare should fail, it is strongly advised that pre-flared lines should be installed when repairing the braking system. If a line were to leak brake fluid due to a defective flare, and the leak were to go undetected, brake failure would result.
- Determine the length of pipe needed. Allow 1 / 8 in. (3.2 mm) for each flare. Cut using an appropriate tool.
- Square the end of the tube with a file and chamfer the edges. Remove any burrs.
- Install the required fittings on the pipe.
- Install the flaring tool into a vice and install the handle into the operating cam.
- Loosen the die clamp screw and rotate the locking plate to expose the die carrier.
- Select the required die set and install in the carrier.
- Insert the prepared line through the rear of the die and push forward until the line end is flush with the die face.
- Make sure the rear of both halves of the die are resting against the hexagonal die stops. Then, rotate the locking plate to the fully closed position and clamp the die firmly by tightening the clamp screw.
- Rotate the punch turret until the appropriate size points toward the open end of the line to be flared.
- Pull the operating handle against the line resistance in order to create the flare, then return the handle to the original position.
- Release the clamp screw and rotate the locking plate to the open position.
- Remove the die set and the line, then separate by gently tapping both halves on the bench. Inspect the flare for proper size and shape.