REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Except 4WD Models
- Block the front wheels. Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
- Remove the wheel and tire.
- Remove the 3 cap retaining bolts, spring washers, cap, bearing retaining plate (if equipped), or the covering cap.
- Remove the cotter pin or straighten out the lockwasher, and loosen and unfasten the nut taking care not to damage the bearing seal.
- Remove the lockwasher and lockplate on 1980-84 models.
- Remove the brake drum with a puller.
- Reverse the above process to install the drums.
- On 1970-73 models, tighten the axle shaft castle nut to 80-145 ft. lbs. (108-196 Nm).
- On all 1974-84 models and on ff-1 and 1300G station wagons, do not tighten the bearing adjusting nut. Instead perform the bearing preload adjustment as detailed in this section.
- Tighten the 3 bearing cap securing plate bolts to 20-50 inch lbs. (2-5 Nm) on models so equipped.
- Block the front wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
- Remove the wheel and tire.
- On 1980-84 models, straighten and disengage the cotter pin, then remove the castellated nut, spring washer, spacer and pull off the brake drum. Note parts orientation. If necessary to use a puller, its center should bear on the center of the rear spindle only.
- On 1970-79 models, using a chisel with a flat blade about 0.23 in. (6mm) across, straighten the staked portion of the axle nut.
- Apply oil on the threads and groove in the axle shaft. Have someone hold the brakes on while you repeatedly loosen and tighten the nut just 0.23 in. (6mm) or so. This is done to force metal chips created in straightening the staked portion of the nut into the groove.
- Then, loosen the nut. Remove the spring washer and spacer and then pull the drum off the spindle. If you need a puller, bear on the center of the spindle, only.
- Put the drum onto the spindle.
- Install the spacer, spring washer (in original position), and the plain or castellated nut onto the spindle.
- Note that on late model cars, the spring washer has a paint mark on one side which must face outward.
- On models 1970-79, install the nut and tighten it to 174 ft. lbs. (235 Nm), with someone holding the brakes on.
- Then, stake the flanged portion of the retaining nut down into the groove in the spindle until it touches the bottom of the groove, using a center punch.
- On 1980-84 models, tighten the castellated nut, with the brakes applied, to 145 ft. lbs. (196 Nm).
- Then tighten the castellated nut just enough further to align holes on nut and spindle.
- Install a new cotter pin and bend its ends until it's firmly secured.
After removing the brake drum, inspect the inner braking surface for excessive wear or damage. If it is unevenly worn, streaked, or cracked, have it resurfaced or replaced. The standard inside diameter of the brake drum is 7 in. (180mm). The maximum allowed diameter is 7.15 in. (182mm).
BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
- On 1979 and earlier models, tighten the adjusting nut until it is just snug while rotating the drum back and forth to seat the bearing.
- On 1980-83 models, tighten the nut to 36 ft. lbs. (48 Nm), or 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1984 models, while rotating the drum back and forth to seat the bearing. Loosen the nut about 0.11 in. (3mm).
- Then, attach a spring scale to one of the wheel studs. Pull on the spring scale at a 90° angle to the diameter of the brake drum and measure the force required to start the drum turning.
- It should be 6-9 ft. lbs. (8-12 Nm) on 1970-77 cars, 2.2-3.1 ft. lbs. (3-4 Nm) on 1978-83 cars, and 2.6-4.0 ft. lbs. (3.5-5 Nm) on 1984 cars.
- Loosen or tighten the nut slightly to get the right rolling resistance.
- When the rolling resistance is right, bend the lockwasher over to hold the nut in place.