REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Remove the brake line clip.
- Using a back-up wrench to hold the hose, loosen the connector nut with the proper size flare nut wrench and disconnect the hose from the fitting.
- Drain the hose into a plastic container. If equipped with gaskets on either side of the hose connections, discard old gaskets and replace with new.
- Visually inspect the brake hose for signs of cracking, damage and swelling. Inspect the fitting threads for damage. Minor thread damage may be repaired with a jeweler's file. Make replacements as required. If a repair is questionable, replace the part.
- Visually inspect the brake tubes for damage, cracks, indentations or corrosion. Inspect the threads for damage. Make replacements as required.
- Connect the brake hose to the brake tube fitting by hand making sure new gaskets are in place. Slowly tighten the fitting and loosen it several times to ensure the correct mating of the threads.
- Using the flare nut and back-up wrenches, tighten the fitting and secure the hose with the clip.
- Fill the master cylinder and bleed the brake system and the master cylinder.
BRAKE PIPE FLARING
Flaring steel lines is a skill that needs to be practiced before it should be done on a line to be used on a vehicle. A special flaring kit with double flaring adapters is required. It is essential that the flare be done uniformly to prevent any leaks when the brake system is under pressure. Only steel lines, not copper lines, must be used. It is also mandatory that the flare be a "double flare" (rolled twice). With the supply of parts available today, a pre-flared steel brake line should be available to fit your needs. Due to the high pressures in the brake system and the serious injuries that could occur if the brake system (flare in a brake line) should fail, it is strongly advised that pre-flared lines are installed when repairing the braking system. If a line were to leak brake fluid due to an defective flare, and the leak were to go undetected, brake failure would result.