Automatic transmissions were not available on the Toyota Celica models until 1973.
Only the 1973 transmissions use bands. The 1974-85 Toyota transmissions do not; therefore, band adjustments are neither necessary nor possible.
See Figure 1
- Remove the oil pan as previously outlined.
- Pry the bank engagement lever toward band with a screwdriver.
- The gap between end of the piston rod and the engagement bolt should be 0.138 inches (3.50mm).
- If the gap does not meet the specification, adjust it by turning the engagement bolt.
- Install the oil pan and refill the transmission as previously outlined.
The rear band adjusting bolt is located on the outside of the case, so it is not necessary to remove the oil pan in order to adjust the band.
- Loosen the adjusting bolt locknut and fully screw in the adjusting bolt.
- Loosen the adjusting bolt one turn.
- Tighten the locknut while holding the bolt so that it cannot turn.
The transmission should be engaged, in the gear selected as indicated on the shift quadrant. If it is not, then adjust the linkage as follows:
- Check all of the shift linkage bushings for wear. Replace any worn bushings.
- Loosen the connecting rod swivel locknut.
- Move the selector lever and check movement of the pointer in the shift quadrant.
- When the control shaft is set in the Neutral position, the quadrant pointer should indicate N .
Steps 5-7 apply only to cars equipped with column mounted gear selectors.
- If the pointer does not indicate N , then check the drive cord adjustment.
- Remove the steering column shroud.
- Turn the drive cord adjuster with a Phillips screwdriver until the pointer indicates N .
Steps 8-10 apply to both column mounted and floor mounted selectors.
- Position the manual valve lever on the transmission so that it is in the Neutral position.
- Lock the connecting rod swivel with the locknut so that the pointer, selector, and manual valve lever are all positioned in Neutral ( N ).
- Check the operation of the gear selector by moving it through all ranges.
See Figure 2
- Loosen the adjusting nut on the linkage and check the linkage for freedom of movement.
- Push the manual valve lever toward the front of the car, as far as it will go.
- Bring the lever back to its third notch (Neutral).
- Have an assistant hold the shift lever in Neutral, while you tighten the linkage adjusting nut so that it can't slip.
See Figures 3, 4 and 5
- Loosen the locknut at each end of the linkage adjusting turnbuckle.
- Detach the throttle linkage connecting rod from the carburetor.
- Align the pointer on the throttle valve lever with the mark stamped on the transmission case.
- Rotate the turnbuckle so that the end of the throttle linkage rod and the carburetor throttle lever are aligned.
The carburetor throttle valve must be fully opened during this adjustment.
- Tighten the turnbuckle locknuts and reconnect the throttle rod to the carburetor.
- Open the throttle valve and check the pointer alignment with the mark on the transmission case.
- Road test the car. If the transmission "hunts" (keeps shifting rapidly back and forth between gears at certain speeds) or if it fails to downshift properly when going up hills, repeat the throttle linkage adjustment.
See Figures 6, 7, 8 and 9
- Remove the air cleaner.
- Confirm that the accelerator linkage opens the throttle fully. Adjust the linkage as necessary.
- Peel the rubber dust boot back from the throttle cable.
- Loosen the adjustment nuts on the throttle cable bracket (rocker cover) just enough to allow cable housing movement.
- Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal fully.
- Adjust the cable housing so that the distance between its end and the cable stop collar is 2.05 inches (52mm) and 0.04 inches (1.01mm) on 1980-85 models.
- Tighten the adjustment nuts. Make sure that the adjustment hasn't changed. Install the dust boot and the air cleaner.