Toyota Celica/Supra 1971-1985 Repair Guide

Cylinder Head

Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



8R-C and 18R-C Engines

See Figures 1 and 2



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-8R-C and 18R-C engines



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Installation direction of the cam bearing caps-8R-C and 18R-C engines


WARNING
Do not perform this procedure on a warm engine.

  1. Disconnect the battery and drain the cooling system.
  2.  
  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly from its bracket, complete with its attendant hoses.
  4.  
  5. Detach the accelerator cable from its support on the valve cover and also from the carburetor throttle arm.
  6.  
  7. Remove the choke cable and fuel lines from the carburetor.
  8.  
  9. Remove the water hose bracket from the valve cover.
  10.  
  11. Unfasten the water hose clamps and remove the hoses from the water pump and the water valve. Detach the heater temperature control cable from the water valve.
  12.  
  13. Disconnect the PCV line from the valve cover.
  14.  
  15. Remove the vacuum lines from the distributor vacuum unit. Remove the lines which run from the vacuum switching valve to the various emission control system components on the cylinder head. Disconnect the EGR lines (1974 California only).
  16.  
  17. Remove the fuel and vacuum lines from the carburetor.
  18.  
  19. Remove the pipes from the automatic choke stove.
  20.  
  21. Tag and unfasten the wires from the spark plugs. Remove the spark plugs.
  22.  
  23. Remove the valve cover retaining bolts, and withdraw the cover.
  24.  

Use a clean cloth, placed over the timing cover opening, to prevent anything from falling into it.

  1. Remove the radiator upper hose from the cylinder head water outlet.
  2.  
  3. Remove the outlet elbow and thermostat.
  4.  
  5. Unfasten the downpipe clamp from the exhaust manifold. Remove the manifold from the head.
  6.  
  7. Remove the valve rocker assembly mounting bolts and the oil delivery pipes. Withdraw the valve rocker shaft assembly.
  8.  
  9. When removing the rocker shaft securing bolts, loosen them in two or three stages and in the proper sequence (from the thermostat side: 1, 3, 5, 4 and 2).
  10.  
  11. Remove the timing gear from the camshaft. Support it so that the chain does not fall down into the cover.
  12.  
  13. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and withdraw the camshaft. Remove the camshaft bearings.
  14.  

Temporarily assemble the bearings and caps to keep them with their mates. Be sure to keep the bearings in proper order.

  1. Remove the gear from the timing chain. Support the timing chain so that it does not fall into the cover.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the head bolts in two or three stages, in the sequence illustrated. Lift the head assembly off the block.
  4.  


WARNING
Do not try to slide the head off the block, as it is held in place by dowels.

To install:
  1. Remove any water from the cylinder head bolt holes.
  2.  
  3. Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block. Use liquid sealer around the oil holes on the head and cylinder block. Do not get sealer in the holes.
  4.  
  5. Lower the cylinder head on to the block.
  6.  


WARNING
Do not slide the head across the block because of the dowels located on the block.

  1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the proper sequence (see the diagrams) and in three or four stages. Tighten them to the specifications given in the Torque Specifications chart.
  2.  
  3. Install each lower bearing half into the seat from which it was removed.
  4.  
  5. Place the camshaft in the cylinder head.
  6.  
  7. Install each bearing into the cap from which it was removed.
  8.  
  9. Install the camshaft bearing caps on the head, in their numbered sequence, with the numbers facing forward. Tighten to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
  10.  
  11. First, check the camshaft bearing clearance and end-play, using Plastigage®.
  12.  

This is checked in the same manner that connecting rod and crankshaft bearings are checked. For the procedure see the appropriate sections later in this section.

The oil clearance should be 0.001-0.002 inch (0.0254-0.0508mm) and the end-play should be 0.0017-0.0066 inch (0.0431-0.167mm).

  1. Crank the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC of its compression stroke.
  2.  
  3. Align the mark on the timing chain with the dowel hole on the camshaft timing gear and the stamped mark on the camshaft.
  4.  

All three marks should be aligned so that they are facing upward.

  1. Install the valve rocker assembly. Tighten its securing bolts to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm), in the sequence illustrated, and in two or three stages.
  2.  
  3. Attach the oil delivery pipe to the valve rocker assembly and camshaft bearing caps. Tighten their securing bolts to 11-16 ft. lbs. (15-22 Nm).
  4.  
  5. Adjust the valve clearance as outlined in Engine Performance and Tune-up , to the following cold specifications:

    Intake-0.007 inch (0.177mm)
     
    Exhaust-0.013 inch (0.33mm)
     

  6.  
  7. The rest of installation is performed in the reverse order of removal.
  8.  

20R and 22R Engines

See Figures 3 through 20



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the cylinder head-20R and 22R engines (22R-EC similar)



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the valve cover



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 5: Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is set at TDC of its compression stroke



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the distributor drive gear and camshaft thrust plate



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 8: Remove the camshaft sprocket and chain, but leave the vibration damper in place



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 9: Remove the bolt at the front of the cylinder head first



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the cylinder head bolts in this sequence



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 11: Clean old gasket material from the mating surface of the cylinder block



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 12: Apply sealer to the two spots on the block as shown



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 13: Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three passes in this sequence



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 14: Turn the camshaft to position the dowel pin at the top



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 15: If the chain is not long enough, turn the camshaft back and forth while pulling up on the chain and sprocket



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 16: Set the No. 1 piston to TDC of its compression stroke



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 17: Adjust the valve clearance, beginning with the indicated valves



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 18: Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw to set the proper clearance



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 19: Turn the crankshaft one revolution, then adjust the other valves



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 20: Install the half moon seals on the ends of the cylinder head


WARNING
Do not perform this operation on a warm engine.

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2.  
  3. Remove the three exhaust pipe flange nuts and separate the pipe from the manifold.
  4.  
  5. Drain the cooling system (both radiator and block). If the coolant is to be reused, place a large, clean container underneath the drains.
  6.  
  7. Remove the air cleaner assembly, complete with hoses, from the carburetor.
  8.  

Cover the carburetor with a clean shop cloth so that nothing can fall into it.

  1. Mark all vacuum hoses to aid installation and disconnect them. Remove all linkages, fuel lines, etc., from the carburetor, cylinder head, and manifolds. Remove the wire supports.
  2.  
  3. Mark the spark plug leads and disconnect them from the plugs.
  4.  
  5. Matchmark the distributor housing and block. Disconnect the primary lead and remove the distributor. Installation will be easier if you leave the cap and leads in place.
  6.  
  7. Unfasten the four 14mm nuts which secure the valve cover.
  8.  
  9. Remove the rubber camshaft seals. Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is at TDC on its compression stroke. Matchmark the timing sprocket to the cam chain, and remove the semi-circular lug. Using a 19mm wrench, remove the cam sprocket bolt. Slide the distributor drive gear and spacer off the cam and wire the cam sprocket in place.
  10.  
  11. Remove the timing chain cover 14mm bolt at the front of the head. This must be done before the head bolts are removed.
  12.  
  13. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the order shown below. Improper removal could cause head damage.
  14.  
  15. Using prybars applied evenly at the front and the rear of the valve rocker assembly, pry the assembly off its mounting dowels.
  16.  
  17. Lift the head off its dowels. Do NOT pry it off. Support the head on a workbench.
  18.  
  19. Drain the engine oil from the crankcase after the head has been removed, because the oil will become contaminated with coolant while the head is being removed.
  20.  

To install:
  1. Apply liquid sealer to the front corners of the block and install the head gasket.
  2.  
  3. Lower the head over the locating dowels. Do not attempt to slide it into place.
  4.  
  5. Rotate the camshaft so that the sprocket aligning pin is at the top. Remove the wire and hold the cam sprocket. Manually rotate the engine so that the sprocket hole is also at the top. Wire the sprocket in place again.
  6.  
  7. Install the rocker arm assembly over its positioning dowels.
  8.  
  9. Tighten the cylinder head bolts evenly, in three stages and in the order shown, under Torque Sequences, to a specified tighten of 52-63 ft. lbs. (70-85 Nm).
  10.  
  11. Install the timing chain cover bolt and tighten it to 7-11 ft. lbs. (9-15 Nm).
  12.  
  13. Remove the wire and fit the sprocket over the camshaft dowel. If the chain won't allow the sprocket to reach, rotate the crankshaft back and forth, while lifting up on the chain and sprocket.
  14.  
  15. Install the distributor drive gear and tighten the crankshaft bolt to 51-65 ft. lbs. (69-88 Nm).
  16.  
  17. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke and adjust the valves as outlined in Engine Performance and Tune-up .
  18.  
  19. After completing valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft 352°deg;, so that the 8°deg; BTDC mark on the pulley aligns with the pointer.
  20.  
  21. Install the distributor, as outlined above.
  22.  
  23. Install the spark plugs and leads.
  24.  
  25. Make sure that the oil drain plug is installed. Fill the engine with oil after installing the rubber cam seals. Pour the oil over the distributor drive gear and the valve rockers.
  26.  
  27. Install the rocker cover and tighten the bolts to 8-11 ft. lbs. (10-15 Nm).
  28.  
  29. Connect all the vacuum hoses and electrical leads which were removed during disassembly. Install the spark plug lead supports. Fill the cooling system. Install the air cleaner.
  30.  
  31. Tighten the exhaust pipe-to-manifold flange bolts to 25-33 ft. lbs. (34-45 Nm).
  32.  
  33. Reconnect the battery. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Check and adjust the timing and valve clearance. Adjust the idle speed and mixture. Road test the vehicle.
  34.  

22R-EC Engine

See Figures 3 through 20

  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Drain the coolant from the radiator and the cylinder block. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the engine oil.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect and remove the air cleaner hose.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire. Remove the nuts attaching the manifold to the exhaust pipe and then separate them.
  8.  
  9. Remove the oil dipstick. Remove the distributor with the spark plug leads attached.
  10.  
  11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose and the heater hoses where they attach to the engine and then position them aside.
  12.  
  13. Disconnect the actuator cable, the accelerator cable and the throttle cable for the automatic transmission at their bracket.
  14.  
  15. Tag and disconnect the following:
    1. Both PCV vacuum hoses
    2.  
    3. Brake booster hose
    4.  
    5. Actuator hose, if equipped with cruise control
    6.  
    7. Air control valve hoses
    8.  
    9. Air control valve.
    10.  

  16.  
  17. Tag and disconnect the EGR vacuum modulator hoses and then remove the modulator itself along with the bracket.
  18.  
  19. Tag and disconnect the following:
    1. Green and brown BVSV hoses
    2.  
    3. Vacuum advance hoses
    4.  
    5. The 2 air valve hoses; one at the throttle body, the other at the air chamber
    6.  
    7. Air control valve hose, if equipped with air conditioning
    8.  
    9. Pressure regulator hose at the air chamber
    10.  
    11. Cold start injector pipe and wire
    12.  
    13. Throttle position sensor wire.
    14.  

  20.  
  21. Remove the bolt holding the EGR valve to the air chamber. Disconnect the chamber from the stay. Remove the air chamber-to-intake manifold bolts and then lift off the chamber with the throttle body.
  22.  
  23. Disconnect the fuel return hose.
  24.  
  25. Tag and disconnect the following:
    1. Water temperature sender gauge wire
    2.  
    3. Temperature sensor wire
    4.  
    5. Start injection time switch wire
    6.  
    7. Fuel injector wires.
    8.  

  26.  
  27. Remove the pulsation damper. Remove the bolt holding the fuel hose to the delivery pipe and then disconnect and remove the fuel hose.
  28.  
  29. Disconnect the wire and hose and then remove the air valve from the intake manifold.
  30.  
  31. Disconnect the bypass hose at the intake manifold.
  32.  
  33. If equipped with power steering, remove the pump and position it aside without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.
  34.  
  35. Remove the 4 nuts and then remove the cylinder head cover.
  36.  
  37. Remove the rubber camshaft seals:
    1. Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is at TDC of its compression stroke.
    2.  
    3. Matchmark the timing sprocket to the timing chain and then remove the semi-circular plug.
    4.  
    5. Using a 19mm wrench, remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Slide the distributor drive gear and spacer off the camshaft and wire the cam sprocket in place.
    6.  

  38.  
  39. Remove the timing chain cover bolt in front of the cylinder head.
  40.  

This must be done before the cylinder head bolts are removed.

  1. Remove the cylinder head bolts gradually, in 2-3 stages, in the correct order.
  2.  
  3. Using prybars applied evenly at the front and rear of the rocker arm assembly, pry the assembly off of its mounting dowel.
  4.  
  5. Lift the cylinder head off the cylinder block.
  6.  

To install:
  1. Apply liquid sealer to the front corners of the block and install the head gasket.
  2.  
  3. Lower the head over the locating dowels. Do not attempt to slide it into place.
  4.  
  5. Rotate the camshaft so the sprocket aligning pin is at the top. Remove the wire and hold the cam sprocket. Manually rotate the engine so the sprocket hole is also at the top. Wire the sprocket in place.
  6.  
  7. Install the rocker arm assembly over its positioning dowels.
  8.  
  9. Tighten the cylinder head bolts evenly, in 3 stages and in the correct order.
  10.  
  11. Install the timing chain cover bolt and tighten it to 7-11 ft. lbs (11-15 Nm).
  12.  
  13. Remove the wire and fit the sprocket over the camshaft dowel. If the chain won't allow the sprocket to reach, rotate the crankshaft back and forth, while lifting up on the chain and sprocket.
  14.  
  15. Install the distributor drive gear and tighten the crankshaft bolt to 51-65 ft. lbs (68-88 Nm).
  16.  
  17. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke and adjust the valves.
  18.  
  19. After completing valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft 352°deg;, so the 8°deg; BTDC mark on the pulley aligns with the pointer.
  20.  
  21. Install the distributor.
  22.  
  23. Install the spark plugs and leads.
  24.  
  25. Make sure the oil drain plug is installed. Fill the engine with oil after installing the rubber cam seals. Pour the oil over the distributor drive gear and the valve rockers.
  26.  
  27. Install the rocker cover and tighten the bolts to 8-11 ft. lbs (11-15 Nm).
  28.  
  29. Connect all the vacuum hoses and electrical leads which were removed during disassembly. Install the spark plug lead supports. Fill the cooling system. Install the air cleaner.
  30.  
  31. Tighten the exhaust pipe-to-manifold flange bolts to 25-33 ft. lbs (34-45 Nm).
  32.  
  33. Reconnect the battery. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
  34.  
  35. Check and adjust the timing and valve clearance. Adjust the idle speed and mixture.
  36.  
  37. Road test the vehicle.
  38.  

4M-E and 5M-E Engines

See Figures 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 21: Before removing the air intake chamber, remove the hoses in numerical order (as per this diagram)-4M-E and 5M-E engines



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 22: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence-4M-E and 5M-E engines



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 23: Crankshaft and camshaft timing marks-4M-E and 5M-E engines



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 24: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-4M-E engine



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 25: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-5M-E engine

Due to the complexity of the hose and line routing on the electronic fuel injection system, it is advisable to have this procedure performed by a professional mechanic.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4.  
  5. Remove the water hose bracket from the valve cover.
  6.  
  7. Unfasten the hose clamps and remove the hoses from the water pump and the water valve.
  8.  
  9. Disconnect the heater temperature control cable from the water valve.
  10.  
  11. Disconnect the PCV hoses from the valve cover and the intake air connector.
  12.  
  13. Disconnect the intake air connector from the air intake chamber and the air flow meter and remove it.
  14.  
  15. Tag and disconnect all hoses, lines and wires leading from the air intake chamber and the throttle body (see the illustration).
  16.  
  17. Unscrew the seven mounting bolts and remove the air intake chamber and the throttle body as one unit.
  18.  
  19. Tag and separate the wiring connectors at the fuel injectors.
  20.  
  21. Unscrew the four mounting bolts and remove the fuel delivery pipe with the injectors.
  22.  


WARNING
When removing the injectors and the delivery pipe, be sure to have a suitable container underneath, to catch the large quantity of fuel.

  1. Remove or disconnect the following parts:
    1. Pressure regulator
    2.  
    3. EGR valve
    4.  
    5. Heater hose
    6.  
    7. Radiator hose
    8.  
    9. Vacuum pipes and hoses
    10.  
    11. Distributor cap
    12.  
    13. Intake manifold and gasket
    14.  

  2.  
  3. Unscrew the eight mounting bolts and remove the intake manifold.
  4.  
  5. Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs and from their bracket on the valve cover.
  6.  
  7. Remove the distributor.
  8.  
  9. Remove the exhaust manifold and the oil pressure sender unit.
  10.  
  11. Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the valve cover.
  12.  

Place clean cloth over the timing gear to prevent anything from falling into the timing gear cover.

  1. Remove the valve rocker shaft assembly retaining bolts in the sequence, then remove the rocker assembly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the timing chain tensioner.
  4.  
  5. Straighten out the lock-plate and unfasten the timing gear retaining bolt (left-hand thread). Withdraw the timing gear from the camshaft.
  6.  
  7. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and withdraw the camshaft. Remove the camshaft bearings.
  8.  

Temporarily assemble the bearings and caps to keep them with their mates. Be sure to keep the bearings in proper order.

  1. Remove the gear from the timing chain. Support the timing chain so that it does not fall into the cover.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the head bolts in two or three stages; in the sequence illustrated. Lift the head assembly off the block.
  4.  


WARNING
Do not try to slide the head off the block, as it is held in place by dowels.

To install:
  1. Remove any water from the cylinder head bolt holes.
  2.  
  3. Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block. Use liquid sealer around the oil holes on the head and cylinder block. Do not get sealer in the holes.
  4.  
  5. Lower the cylinder head onto the block.
  6.  


WARNING
Do not slide the head across the block because of the dowels located on the block.

  1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the proper sequence (see the diagrams) and in three or four stages. Tighten them to the specifications given in the Torque Specifications chart.
  2.  
  3. Install each lower bearing half into the seat from which it was removed.
  4.  
  5. Place the camshaft in the cylinder head.
  6.  
  7. Install each bearing into the cap from which it was removed.
  8.  
  9. Install the camshaft bearing caps on the head, in their numbered sequence, with the numbers facing forward. Tighten to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
  10.  
  11. First, check the camshaft bearing clearance and end-play, using Plastigage®.
  12.  

This is checked in the same manner that connecting rod and crankshaft bearings are checked.

The oil clearance should be 0.001-0.002 inch (0.0254-0.0508mm) the end-play should be 0.0017-0.0066 inch (0.0431-0.167mm).

  1. Crank the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC of its compression stroke.
  2.  
  3. Align the V-notch on the camshaft with the 5 / 32 in. hole on the No. 1 camshaft bearing.
  4.  

Be sure that the V-notch is also aligned with the mark on the timing chain cover.

  1. Install the camshaft timing gear, with the chain, on the end of the camshaft. Align the pin on the camshaft flange with the hole in the gear.
  2.  
  3. Install the timing gear bolt and lockplate. Fasten the bolt with the lockplate.
  4.  

The bolt has a left-hand thread. Tighten it to 47-54 ft. lbs. (64-73 Nm).

  1. Install the chain tensioner, complete with shim. Tighten it to 22-29 ft. lbs. (29-39 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions while checking to ensure that valve timing is correct. If, at the end of the two revolutions, the timing marks do not align, repeat Steps 11-13.
  4.  
  5. Apply pressure to the chain tensioner arm. If its movement is less than 3 / 16 in., add additional shims.
  6.  
  7. Install the valve rocker assembly and tighten the bolts to 22-29 ft. lbs. (29-39 Nm), in the sequence illustrated, and in three or four stages.
  8.  

The stud bolt should only be tightened to 11-14 ft. lbs. (15-19 Nm).

  1. Install the union on the No. 1 rocker support and the No. 1 camshaft bearing cap. Tighten the union bolts to 6-9 ft. lbs. (8-12 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Adjust the valve clearance, as outlined in Engine Performance and Tune-up , to the following cold specifications:

    Intake: 0.006 inch (0.15mm)
     
    Exhaust: 0.008 inch (0.20mm)
     

  4.  
  5. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.
  6.  

5M-GE Engine

See Figures 26 through 43



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 26: Exploded view of the cylinder head-5M-GE engine



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 27: Remove the No. 1 air intake connector



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 28: Unclamp the water bypass hoses, along with other assorted emission, PCV and fuel lines



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 29: Remove the bolts retaining the vacuum pipe and bond cable



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 30: Unbolt the distributor and remove it from the cylinder head



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 31: Unfasten and tag the various connectors



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 32: Remove the air intake chamber from the engine



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 33: Separate the EFI wiring harness from the ECU



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 34: Unbolt the water outlet housing



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 35: Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the intake manifold, then remove the manifold and gasket



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 36: Remove the power steering pump from its mounting bracket



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 37: Unbolt and remove the exhaust manifold



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 38: Unbolt the timing cover stay and remove the oil pressure regulator



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 39: In three passes, remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 40: If necessary, pry off the cylinder head, then set it on blocks of wood on your workbench



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 41: Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three passes, in this sequence-5M-GE engine



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 42: Tighten the timing belt cover to 7-11 ft. lbs. (10-16 Nm)



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 43: Connect the cold start injector fuel hose to the delivery pipe

  1. Rotate the engine so as to bring the number one cylinder up to Top Dead Center of its compression stroke. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  4.  
  5. Drain the cooling system.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
  8.  
  9. Remove the throttle cable bracket from the cylinder head if equipped with automatic transmission, and remove the accelerator and actuator cable bracket.
  10.  
  11. Tag and disconnect the cylinder head ground cable, the oxygen sensor wire, the distributor connector, oil pressure sending unit, alternator wires, the high tension coil wire, the water temperature sending, the thermo switch wires, the starter wires, the ECT connectors, the solenoid resistor wire connector and the knock sensor wire.
  12.  
  13. Tag and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the air intake chamber, along with the EGR valve vacuum hose. Disconnect the actuator vacuum hose from the air intake chamber, if equipped with cruise control. Disconnect the heater bypass hoses from the engine.
  14.  
  15. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing, and disconnect the 2 heater hoses.
  16.  
  17. Disconnect the No. 1 air hose from the air intake connector. Remove the 2 clamp bolts, loosen the throttle body hose clamp and remove the air intake connector and the connector pipe.
  18.  
  19. Disconnect the No. 1 water bypass hose from the idle speed control valve. Disconnect the No. 2 water bypass hose from the throttle body.
  20.  
  21. Tag and disconnect all emission control hoses from the throttle body and air intake chamber, the 2 PCV hoses from the cam cover and the fuel hose from the fuel hose support.
  22.  
  23. Remove the air intake chamber stay and the vacuum pipe and ground cable. Remove the bolt that attaches the spark plug wire clip, leaving the wires attached to the clip.
  24.  
  25. Make an alignment mark on the distributor base and the engine block. Remove the distributor from the cylinder head with the cap and wires attached, by removing the distributor holding bolt.
  26.  
  27. Remove the spark plugs. Disconnect and tag the following connections:

    Cold start injector wire
     
    Water temperature sensor wire
     
    Start injection time switch wire
     
    Water temperature sending unit wire
     
    Throttle position sensor wire connector
     
    Idle speed control valve wire connectors
     

  28.  
  29. Disconnect the cold start injector fuel hose from the delivery pipe.
  30.  
  31. Loosen the nut of the EGR pipe, remove the 5 bolts and 2 nuts that retain the air intake chamber and remove the chamber and gasket.
  32.  
  33. Remove the glove box and remove the ECU module. Disconnect the 3 connectors and pull the ECU wire harness out through the engine side of the firewall.
  34.  
  35. Remove the pulsation damper and the No. 1 fuel pipe. Remove the water outlet housing by first loosening the clamp and disconnecting the water by pass hose. Then remove the 2 bolts from the outlet and remove it from the engine.
  36.  
  37. Remove the eight bolts and 2 nuts holding the intake manifold to the engine and remove the intake manifold and gasket.
  38.  
  39. Remove the power steering pump pulley with drive belt and remove the power steering pump stay bracket. Remove the power steering pump from the bracket without disconnecting the fluid hoses. Position the pump out of the way.
  40.  
  41. Disconnect the oxygen sensor connector. Remove the heat insulator retaining nuts and remove the insulators. Remove the exhaust manifold retaining nuts and remove the exhaust manifold.
  42.  
  43. Remove the retaining bolts of the No. 3 timing belt cover and remove the cover and gasket.
  44.  
  45. Loosen the idler pulley set bolt and shift the idler pulley towards the alternator side. Finger-tighten the set bolt and ten relieve the timing belt tension.
  46.  
  47. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft timing pulleys.
  48.  
  49. Using a suitable camshaft pulley holding tool, remove the camshaft pulley set bolts and remove the pulleys along with the match pin.
  50.  

Do not make use of the timing belt tension when removing and installing the pulley set bolt. The exhaust and intake sides each use a different type of pulley and they are not interchangeable.

  1. Remove the 2 bolts holding the timing belt cover stay bracket and remove the stay bracket. Remove the 3 bolts from the oil pressure regulator and remove the regulator and gasket.
  2.  
  3. Remove the No. 2 timing belt cover retaining bolts and nuts and remove the cover with gasket.
  4.  
  5. Tag and disconnect any other wires, linkage and/or hoses still attached to the cylinder head or may interfere with its removal.
  6.  
  7. Carefully remove the 14 head bolts gradually in two or three passes and in the proper sequence.
  8.  
  9. Carefully lift the cylinder head from the dowels on the cylinder block and remove it. Remove the old gasket material from the head and cylinder block.
  10.  

To install:
  1. Install the EGR cooler.
  2.  
  3. Install a small bead of a suitable high temperature silicone sealer to the 4 corners of the cylinder head and engine block mating surface.
  4.  
  5. Place a new cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins on the cylinder block.
  6.  
  7. Position the cylinder head over the dowel pins. Once the cylinder head is seated properly over the gasket and engine block, install the cylinder head bolts. Tighten the head bolts gradually in 3 passes working from the middle out, to obtain a final torque of 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
  8.  
  9. Install the No. 2 timing belt cover and gasket and tighten the bolts and nuts to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
  10.  
  11. Install the oil pressure regulator along with a new gasket onto the cylinder head.
  12.  
  13. Install the timing belt cover stay bracket and bolts.
  14.  
  15. Install the camshaft timing pulleys and timing belt as follows:
    1. Make sure that the match hole on the No. 2 journal of the camshaft housing is aligned with that of the camshaft.
    2.  
    3. If not aligned properly, temporarily install the camshaft timing pulley and insert the match pin into the pin hole. Then align the match holes by turning the camshaft timing pulley.
    4.  
    5. Install the camshaft timing pulleys with the guide facing the direction as indicated. The exhaust side will be with the pulley guide facing the No. 2 timing belt cover. The intake side will be with the pulley guide facing the front side.
    6.  
    7. Align the matchmarks of the No. 2 timing belt cover with those of the camshaft timing pulleys and of the crankshaft pulley. Be sure that the No. 1 cylinder is set to Top Dead Center on its compression stroke, which it should be if the engine has not been disturbed.
    8.  
    9. Install the timing belt with the belt having the proper tension between the crankshaft timing pulley and the camshaft timing pulley on the exhaust side.
    10.  
    11. Loosen the idler pulley set bolt and stretch the timing belt. Tighten the idler pulley set bolt to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Be sure that the timing belt tension is applied evenly throughout the belt.
    12.  
    13. There are 3 pin holes on the camshaft and timing pulleys. Select the one overlapped hole and insert the pin into it.
    14.  

  16.  

If there is no overlapping hole, find one that is nearly overlapped and rotate the crankshaft slightly to overlap it and insert the pin.

    1. The crankshaft pulley angle can be adjusted approximately 3°deg; by changing the pin hole to the next one.
    2.  
    3. Using a suitable camshaft pulley holding tool, install the camshaft pulley set bolts and tighten them to 50 ft. lbs. (69 Nm).
    4.  
    5. Loosen the idler pulley set bolt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise 2 times and retighten the idler pulley set bolt.
    6.  
    7. Install the No. 3 timing belt cover and gasket along with the retaining bolts.
    8.  


***WARNING***Do not alter the timing belt tension when tightening the camshaft pulley bolt.

  1. Position a new exhaust manifold gasket onto the cylinder head. Install the exhaust manifold with retaining nuts and tighten the nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Install the heat insulators.
  4.  
  5. Install the power steering pump and stay bracket. Install the power steering pump pulley with the drive belt. Adjust the belt to obtain the proper tension. Tighten the idler pulley nut and adjusting bolt.
  6.  
  7. Position a new intake manifold gasket onto the cylinder head. Install the intake manifold with retaining nuts and tighten the nuts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). Connect the EFI wiring harness to the ECU.
  8.  
  9. Install the water outlet housing with the 2 bolts. Connect the water bypass hose and tighten the clamp.
  10.  
  11. Finger tighten the pulsation damper and union bolt with a new gaskets on the fuel pipe. Tighten the fuel pipe, being careful not to bend it.
  12.  
  13. Position a new air intake chamber gasket onto the intake manifold. Install the air chamber with the retaining bolts and nuts. Tighten the nut of the EGR valve connecting pipe.
  14.  
  15. Install a new gasket on the cold start injector fuel hose delivery pipe and install the fuel hose, another gasket and the union bolt to the delivery pipe.
  16.  
  17. Install the following connectors:

    Cold start injector wire
     
    Water temperature sensor wire
     
    Start injection time switch wire
     
    Water temperature sending unit wire
     
    Throttle position sensor wire connector
     
    Idle speed control valve wire connectors
     

  18.  
  19. Using the alignment mark made earlier on the distributor and being sure the No. 1 cylinder is set up at Top Dead Center of its compression stroke. Install the distributor assembly.
  20.  
  21. Install the spark plugs, spark plug wire clips with bolt and the spark plug wires.
  22.  
  23. Install the air intake chamber stay bracket, vacuum pipe and ground cable with 3 bolts.
  24.  
  25. Reconnect all emission control hoses to the throttle body and air intake chamber, the 2 PCV hoses to the cam cover and the fuel hose to the fuel hose support.
  26.  
  27. Reconnect the No. 1 water bypass hose to the idle speed control valve. Reconnect the No. 2 water bypass hose to the throttle body.
  28.  
  29. Reconnect the No. 1 air hose to the air intake connector. Install the 2 clamp bolts, tighten the throttle body hose clamp and install the air intake connector and the connector pipe.
  30.  
  31. Install the 2 heater hoses and install the radiator upper hose.
  32.  
  33. Reconnect the brake booster vacuum hose to the air intake chamber, along with the EGR valve vacuum hose. Reconnect the actuator vacuum hose to the air intake chamber, if equipped with cruise control. Reconnect the heater bypass hoses to the engine.
  34.  
  35. Reconnect the cylinder head ground cable, the oxygen sensor wire, the distributor connector, oil pressure sending unit, alternator wires, the high tension coil wire, the water temperature sending, the thermo switch wires, the starter wires, the ECT connectors, the solenoid resistor wire connector and the knock sensor wire.
  36.  
  37. Install the throttle cable bracket to the cylinder head if equipped with automatic transmission, and install the accelerator and actuator cable bracket.
  38.  
  39. Reconnect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
  40.  
  41. Close the engine block and radiator drain cocks and refill the cooling system.
  42.  
  43. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine. If the engine is hard to start it may be necessary to have someone turn the base of the distributor left or right to get close to the base timing marks and allowing the engine to start.
  44.  
  45. Perform all engine adjustments. Road test the vehicle and then make all final adjustments. Be sure to also check for any leaks and refill as necessary.
  46.  

CLEANING AND INSPECTION



See Figures 44 and 45



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 44: Use a gasket scraper to remove the bulk of the old head gasket from the mating surface



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 45: On non-aluminum heads, an electric drill with a wire wheel will expedite complete gasket removal

When the rocker assembly and valve train have been removed from the cylinder head (see Valves and Springs, later in this section), set the head on two wooden blocks on the bench, combustion chamber side up. Using a scraper or putty knife, carefully scrape away any gasket material that may have stuck to the head-to-block mating surface when the head was removed. Make sure you DO NOT gouge the mating surface with the tool.

Using a wire brush chucked into your electric drill, remove the carbon in each combustion chamber. Make sure the brush is actually removing the carbon and not merely burnishing it.

Clean all the valve guides using a valve guide brush (available at most auto parts or auto tool shops) and solvent. A fine-bristled rifle bore cleaning brush also works here.

Inspect the threads of each spark plug hole by screwing a plug into each, making sure it screws down completely. Heli-coil® any plug hole this is damaged.


WARNING
DO NOT hot tank the cylinder head! The head material on most Celica/Supra engines is aluminum, which is ruined if subjected to the hot tank solution. Some of the early 8R-C and 18-R engines were equipped with cast iron heads, which can be hot-tanked (a service performed by most machine shops in which the head is immersed in a hot, caustic solution for cleaning). To be sure your engine's cylinder head is aluminum, check around its perimeter with a magnet. Your engine has an iron head if the magnet sticks.

Before hot-tanking any overhead cam head, check with the machine shop doing the work. Some cam bearings are easily damaged by the hot tank solution.

Finally, go over the entire head with a clean shop rag soaked in solvent to remove any grit, old gasket particles, etc. Blow out the bolt holes, coolant galleys, intake and exhaust ports, valve guides and plug holes with compressed air.

RESURFACING



See Figures 46 and 47



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 46: Check the cylinder head for warpage along the center using a straightedge and a feeler gauge



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 47: Be sure to check for warpage across the cylinder head at both diagonals

While the head is removed, check the head-to-block mating surface for straightness. If the engine has overheated and blown a head gasket, this must be done as a matter of course. A warped mating surface must be resurfaced (milled); this is done on a milling machine and is quite similar to planing a piece of wood.

Using a precision steel straightedge and a blade-type feeler gauge, check the surface of the head across its length, width and diagonal length as shown in the illustrations. Also check the intake and exhaust manifold mating surfaces, and the camshaft housing (5M-GE) and valve cover (all) mating surfaces. If warpage exceed 0.003 inch (0.076mm) in a 6 inch (152mm) span, or 0.006 inch (0.152mm) over the total length, the head must be milled. If warpage is highly excessive, the head must be replaced. Again, consult the machine shop operator on head milling limitations.

CYLINDER BLOCK CLEANING



See Figures 48, 49, 50, 51 and 52



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 48: Removing cylinder glazing using a flexible hone



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 49: A solid hone can also be used to cross-hatch the cylinder bore



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 50: As with a ball hone, work the hone carefully up and down the bore to achieve the desired results



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 51: A properly cross-hatched cylinder bore



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 52: Using a ball type cylinder hone is an easy way to hone the cylinder bore

While the cylinder head is removed, the top of the cylinder block and pistons should also be cleaned. Before you begin, rotate the crankshaft until one or more pistons are flush with the top of the block (on the four cylinder engines, you will either have Nos. 1 and 4 up, or Nos. 2 and 3 up). Carefully stuff clean rags into the cylinders in which the pistons are down. This will help keep grit and carbon chips out during cleaning. Using care not to gouge or scratch the block-to-head mating surface and the piston top(s), clean away any old gasket material with a wire brush and/or scraper. On the piston tops, make sure you are actually removing the carbon and not merely burnishing it.

Remove the rags from the down cylinders after you have wiped the top of the block with a solvent soaked rag. Rotate the crankshaft until the other pistons come up flush with the top of the block, and clean those pistons.

Because you have rotated the crankshaft, you will have to re-time the engine following the procedure listed under the Timing Chain/Timing Belt removal. Make sure you wipe out each cylinder thoroughly with a solvent-soaked rag, to remove all traces of grit, before the cylinder head is reassembled to the block.

 
label.common.footer.alt.autozoneLogo