OIL LEVEL CHECK
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Every time you stop for fuel, check the engine oil as follows:
- Park the car on level ground.
- When checking the oil level it is best for the engine to be at operating temperature, although checking the oil immediately after a stopping will lead to a false reading. Wait a few minutes after turning off the engine to allow the oil to drain back into the crankcase.
- Open the hood and locate the dipstick which is on the right side of all engines but the 20R, 22R and 22R-E, where it is on the left. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean and reinsert it.
- Pull the dipstick out again and, holding it horizontally, read the oil level. The oil should be between the "F" and "L" marks on the dipstick. If the oil is below the "L" mark, add oil of the proper viscosity through the capped opening on the top of the cylinder head cover. See the Oil and Fuel Recommendations chart in this section for the proper viscosity and rating of oil to use.
- Replace the dipstick and check the oil level again after adding any oil. Be careful not to overfill the crankcase. Approximately one quart of oil will raise the level from the "L" to the "F". Excess oil will generally be consumed at an accelerated rate.
OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
See Figures 4 through 15
The oil should be changed every 6,000 miles (9,654 km) in Celicas built between 1971-77. All 1978 and later models should have the oil changed every 7,500 miles (12,000 km).
The oil drain plug is located on the bottom, rear of the oil pan (bottom of the engine, underneath the car). The oil filter is located on the right side of the engine on all models.
The mileage figures given are the Toyota recommended intervals assuming normal driving and conditions. If your car is being used under dusty, polluted or off-road conditions, change the oil and filter more frequently than specified. The same goes for cars driven in stop-and-go traffic or only for short distances. Always drain the oil after the engine has been running long enough to bring it to normal operating temperature. Hot oil will flow easier and more contaminants will be removed along with the oil than if it were drained cold.
- Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
- Jack up the front of the car and support it on safety stands.
- Slide a drain pan of at least 6 quarts capacity under the oil pan.
- Loosen the drain plug. Turn the plug out by hand. By keeping an inward pressure on the plug as you unscrew it, oil won't escape past the threads and you can remove it without being burned by hot oil.
- Allow the oil to drain completely and then install the drain plug. Don't overtighten the plug, or you'll be buying a new pan or a trick replacement plug for stripped threads.
- Using a strap wrench, remove the oil filter. Keep in mind that it's holding about one quart of dirty, hot oil.
- Empty the old filter into the drain pan and dispose of the filter.
- Using a clean rag, wipe off the filter adapter on the engine block. Be sure that the rag doesn't leave any lint which could clog an oil passage.
- Coat the rubber gasket on the filter with fresh oil. Spin it onto the engine by hand; when the gasket touches the adapter surface give it another 1 / 2 - 3 / 4 turn. No more, or you'll squash the gasket and it will leak.
- Refill the engine with the correct amount of fresh oil. See the Capacities chart.
- Check the oil level on the dipstick. It is normal for the level to be a bit above the full mark. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few minutes.
- Shut off the engine, allow the oil to drain for a minute, and check the oil level. Check around the filter and drain plug for any leaks, and correct as necessary.