See Figures 1 through 7
Vehicle fuses, fusible links and or relays are found in relay or junction blocks. On most models, the covers for the relay or junction blocks identify each fuse, fusible link or relay
All models have fuses, fusible links and relays found in various locations. One relay or junction block is located within the cabin of the vehicle, just under the extreme left side of the dashboard. This fuse block generally contains the fuses for body and cabin electrical circuits such as the wipers, rear defogger, ignition, cigarette lighter, etc. In addition, various relays and circuit breakers for other equipment are also mounted on or around this fuse block.
The second relay or junction block is found under the hood on the forward part of the left wheelhouse (driver's side). The fuses, fusible links and relays in this junction block generally control the engine and major electrical systems on the vehicle, such as headlights (separate fuses for left and right), air conditioning, horns, fuel injection, ECM, and fans.
Some models have an additional small panel (relay or junction block) at the right kick panel area containing a fuse (air conditioner or heater) and a relay and circuit breaker for the heater system.
Some models have another relay block near the junction block which is found under the hood. These relay blocks contain various fuses, fusible links and relays for the vehicle. The covers for the relay or junction blocks usually identify each fuse, fusible link or relay for your vehicle.
Each fuse and fusible link location is labeled on the fuse block cover identifying its primary circuit, but designations such as Engine, CDS Fan or ECU-B may not tell you what you need to know. A fuse and fusible link can control more than one circuit, so check related fuses. The sharing of fuses is necessary to conserve space and wiring.
On older vehicles, a regular type or cylinder shaped glass fuse is used, both type fuses work the same way and are checked and installed in the same manner
Most late models, use individual fuses that are plastic or slip-fuse type. They connect into the fuse box with two small blades, similar to a household wall plug. Removing the fuse with the fingers can be difficult; there isn't a lot to grab onto. For this reason, the fuse block may contain a small plastic fuse remover which can be clipped over the back of the fuse and used as a handle to pull it free.
Once the fuse is out, view the fusible element through the clear plastic of the fuse case. An intact fuse will show a continuous horseshoe-shaped wire within the plastic. This element simply connects one blade with the other; if it's intact, power can pass. If the fuse is blown, the link inside the fuse will show a break, possibly accompanied by a small black mark. This shows that the link broke when the electrical current exceeded the wires ability to carry it.
It is possible for the link to become weakened (from age or vibration) without breaking. In this case, the fuse will look good but fail to pass the proper amount of current, causing some electrical item to not work.
Once removed, any fuse may be checked for continuity with an ohmmeter. A reliable general rule is to always replace a suspect fuse with a new one. So doing eliminates one variable in the diagnostic path and may cure the problem outright. Remember, however, that a blown fuse is rarely the cause of a problem; the fuse is opening to protect the circuit from some other malfunction either in the wiring or the component itself. Always replace a fuse or other electrical component with one of equal amperage rating; NEVER increase the ampere rating of the circuit. The number on the back of the fuse body (5, 7.5, 10, 15 ,etc.) indicates the rated amperage of the fuse.