REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14
- Unfasten the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder. On early models, disconnect the lines running to the master cylinder reservoir.
- Disconnect the hydraulic fluid pressure differential switch wiring connectors. On models with ESP, disconnect the fluid level sensor wiring connectors, as well.
- Loosen the master cylinder reservoir mounting bolts.
Then do one of the following:
- On models with manual brakes, remove the master cylinder securing bolts and the clevis pin from the brake pedal. Remove the master cylinder;
- On models with power brakes, unfasten the nuts and remove the master cylinder assembly from the power brake unit.
Install the master cylinder and note the following:
Certain models have an UP mark on the cylinder boot, make sure this is in the correct position.
To accurately install the master cylinder, the clearance between the booster piston rod and the master cylinder piston should be 3-6mm. This can be done after the master cylinder is installed. The brake pedal should move the specified distance with just a slight touch. Remember, you are only checking the distance in which the rod is traveling to connect the pistons, not to depress it. See the Brake Pedal Adjustment section.
See Figures 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 and 32
- Place the cylinder securely in a vise. Remove the reservoir caps and floats. Unscrew the bolts which secure the reservoir(s) to the main body.
- Remove the pressure differential warning switch assembly. Then, working from the rear of the cylinder, remove the boot, snapring, stop washer, piston No. 1, spacer, cylinder cup, spring retainer, and spring, in that order.
- Remove the end plug and gasket from the front of the cylinder, then remove the front piston stop bolt from underneath. Pull out the spring, retainer, piston No. 2, spacer, and the cylinder cup.
- Remove the two outlet fittings, washers, check valves and springs.
- Remove the piston cups from their seats only if they are to be replaced.
After washing all parts in clean brake fluid, dry them with compressed air (if available). Drying parts with a shop rag can deposit lint and dirt particles inside the assembled master cylinder. Inspect the cylinder bore for wear, scuff marks, or nicks. Cylinders may be honed slightly, but the limit is 0.15mm. In view of the importance of the master cylinder, it is recommended that it is replaced rather than overhauled if worn or damaged.
- Absolute cleanliness is essential. Coat all parts with clean brake fluid prior to assembly.
- Bleed the hydraulic system after the master cylinder is installed.