Toyota Pick-ups/Land Cruiser/4Runner 1970-1988

Transmission

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1 through 24

Pick-Up-2WD
1970-79
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the console box or floor mat, and remove the shift lever boot retainer. Raise the boot and remove the shift lever assembly.
  4.  
  5. Drain the coolant from the engine and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
  6.  
  7. On 1970-74 models, there is a bracket which supports the flexible line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Unbolt the bracket from the engine.
  8.  

Do not separate the tubes. Just remove the bracket.

  1. Disconnect the accelerator torque rod, which runs from the gas pedal to the carburetor, at the firewall.
  2.  
  3. Remove the upper starter mounting nut on 1970-74 models.
  4.  
  5. Raise the truck and support it on safety stands.
  6.  
  7. On 1970-74 models, remove the starter lower mounting bolt and the starter wiring, and remove the starter. On 1975-79 models, disconnect the starter wiring, remove the mounting nut and bolt, and remove the starter.
  8.  
  9. Remove the clamp holding the clutch slave cylinder in position.
  10.  

Do not disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder.

  1. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold flange, and remove the pipe clamp closest to the manifold. On 1975-79 models, also remove the heat insulator, transmission mounting bolts, and bracket on that side.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 1: Removing the shift lever



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Fig. Fig. 2: Position a block of wood between the oil pan and crossmember



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Fig. Fig. 3: Transmission mounting bolts-1985-88 2WD Pick-up and 4Runner



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Fig. Fig. 4: Removing the floor shifter retaining plate



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Fig. Fig. 5: Removing the floor shifter assembly



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Fig. Fig. 6: Removing the driveshaft--matchmark before removal



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Fig. Fig. 7: Removing the driveshaft from the flange



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Fig. Fig. 8: Removing the driveshaft from the vehicle



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Fig. Fig. 9: Removing the driveshaft--plug transmission opening



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Fig. Fig. 10: Removing the clutch release cylinder mounting bolts



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Fig. Fig. 11: Removing the clutch release cylinder--with line attached



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Fig. Fig. 12: Removing the clutch release cylinder



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Fig. Fig. 13: Removing the speedometer cable



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Fig. Fig. 14: Removing the suspension parts--before transmission removal



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Fig. Fig. 15: Removing all necessary brackets--before transmission removal



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Fig. Fig. 16: Unplug all necessary electrical connections



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Fig. Fig. 17: Removing all necessary electrical connections--before transmission removal



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Fig. Fig. 18: Removing the transmission mount bolts

  1. Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder-to-clutch fork link at the clutch fork.
  2.  
  3. Remove the parking brake cable from the lever. It is not necessary to remove the entire equalizer assembly, as it will drop out of the way when the frame crossmember is removed.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the back-up light wiring.
  8.  
  9. Matchmark the driveshaft flange and the transmission flange, then unbolt the driveshaft and move it out of the way. Plug the transmission output shaft opening to prevent oil leakage.
  10.  
  11. Support the transmission on a jack and remove the rear engine support/frame crossmember.
  12.  
  13. Loosen but do not remove the clutch housing-to-engine block bolts. Drop the transmission down slightly and then remove the bolts completely. The transmission must be drawn to the rear of the truck while lowering so that it will clear the clutch assembly.
  14.  

To install:
  1. Before installing the transmission, apply a thin coating of multipurpose grease on the input shaft end and splines, the clutch release bearing, and the clutch diaphragm spring contact surfaces.
  2.  


CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

To prevent the oil pan from striking the suspension on 1970-74 models, and to prevent the EGR valve from striking the firewall on 1975-79 models, place a wood block under the oil pan and support it with a jack.

When installing the transmission, it is necessary to use an alignment tool to center the clutch disc. These are available at auto parts stores.

After aligning the clutch, insert the transmission input shaft, being certain that its splines are properly meshed with those on the clutch. Use a jack to support the transmission while aligning the mounting bolts of the clutch housing. Tighten the clutch housing-to-engine block bolts to 36-51 ft. lbs.

After installing all the components removed earlier, adjust the parking brake if necessary and the clutch release fork end play to 2-3 1 / 2 mm. Apply gear oil to the shift lever ball, and the multipurpose grease to the shift lever bushing. Be certain that the driveshaft matchmarks are aligned. Fill the engine cooling system and check the level of transmission oil before road testing the truck.

If the clutch master cylinder hydraulic system has been separated at one of its connections, the system will have to be bled.

1980-82
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the console box or floor mat. Remove the shift lever boot retainer. Raise the boot and remove the shift lever assembly.
  4.  
  5. Drain the coolant from the engine and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
  6.  
  7. Remove the upper starter mounting nut.
  8.  
  9. Raise the truck and support it on safety stands.
  10.  
  11. Drain the fluid from the transmission.
  12.  
  13. Remove the driveshaft and plug the extension housing to prevent oil seepage.
  14.  
  15. Remove the clutch release cylinder mounting bolts and position the cylinder out of the way.
  16.  
  17. Remove the lower starter mounting bolt, disconnect the wiring and remove the starter.
  18.  
  19. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  20.  
  21. Disconnect the back-up light switch wire.
  22.  
  23. Disconnect the exhaust pipe clamp at the extension housing.
  24.  
  25. Remove the 4 rear engine mount bolts at the extension housing. Position a block of wood on a floor jack and raise the engine slightly. Remove the 4 rear mount-to-support member bolts and remove the rear engine mount.
  26.  
  27. Remove any remaining transmission housing bolts.
  28.  
  29. With a floor jack under the transmission case, pull it toward the rear and slowly lower it until it can be removed from the truck.
  30.  

Be careful not to damage the extension housing dust deflector.

To install:
  1. Position the transmission case so the input shaft splines align with the clutch disc and push it fully into position. Install the 2 upper mounting bolts.
  2.  
  3. Position the rear engine mount in the support member and tighten the bolts to 26-36 ft. lbs. (3.5-5.0 kg-m).
  4.  
  5. Lower the transmission until it rests on the rear mount. Install the 4 bolts and tighten them to 14-22 ft. lbs. (1.9-3.1 kg-m).
  6.  
  7. Install the remaining transmission housing bolts.
  8.  
  9. Install the exhaust pipe clamp.
  10.  
  11. Connect the speedometer cable.
  12.  
  13. Connect the back-up light switch.
  14.  
  15. Remove the extension housing plug and install the driveshaft.
  16.  
  17. Install the starter and the clutch release cylinder.
  18.  
  19. Install the shift lever.
  20.  
  21. Refill the transmission and radiator. Connect the battery cable and road test the truck.
  22.  

1983-84
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the console box or floor mat, and remove the shift lever boot retainer. Raise the boot and remove the shift lever assembly.
  4.  
  5. Drain the coolant from the engine and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
  6.  
  7. Raise the truck and support it on safety stands.
  8.  
  9. Drain the fluid from the transmission.
  10.  
  11. Remove the driveshaft and plug the extension housing to prevent oil seepage.
  12.  
  13. Remove the clutch release cylinder mounting bolts and position the cylinder out of the way.
  14.  
  15. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  16.  
  17. Disconnect the back-up light switch wire.
  18.  
  19. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket and stiffener plate.
  20.  
  21. Remove the clamp and exhaust pipe.
  22.  
  23. Remove the insulator plate.
  24.  
  25. Remove the 4 rear engine mount bolts at the extension housing. Position a block of wood on a floor jack and raise the engine slightly. Remove the 4 rear mount-to-support member bolts and remove the rear engine mount.
  26.  
  27. Remove any remaining transmission housing bolts.
  28.  
  29. With a floor jack under the transmission case, pull it toward the rear and slowly lower it until it can be removed from the truck.
  30.  

Be careful not to damage the extension housing dust deflector.

To install:
  1. Position the transmission case so the input shaft splines align with the clutch disc and push it fully into position. Install the 2 upper mounting bolts.
  2.  
  3. Position the rear engine mount in the support member and tighten the bolts to 26-36 ft. lbs. (3.5-5.0 kg-m).
  4.  
  5. Lower the transmission until it rests on the rear mount. Install the 4 bolts and tighten them to 14-22 ft. lbs. (1.9-3.1 kg-m).
  6.  
  7. Install the exhaust pipe bracket.
  8.  
  9. Install the clutch release cylinder and tube bracket.
  10.  
  11. Install the insulator plate.
  12.  
  13. Connect the speedometer cable.
  14.  
  15. Connect the back-up light switch.
  16.  
  17. Install the stiffener plate.
  18.  
  19. Install the remaining transmission housing bolts.
  20.  
  21. Connect the exhaust pipe and clamp.
  22.  
  23. Remove the extension housing plug and install the driveshaft.
  24.  
  25. Install the shift lever.
  26.  
  27. Refill the transmission and radiator. Connect the battery cable and road test the truck.
  28.  

1985-88
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the console box or floor mat, and remove the shift lever boot retainer. Raise the boot and remove the shift lever assembly.
  4.  
  5. Drain the coolant from the engine and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
  6.  
  7. Raise the truck and support it on safety stands.
  8.  
  9. Drain the fluid from the transmission.
  10.  
  11. Remove the driveshaft and plug the extension housing to prevent oil seepage.
  12.  
  13. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  14.  
  15. Disconnect the back-up light switch wire.
  16.  
  17. Remove the exhaust pipe clamp and exhaust pipe.
  18.  
  19. Remove the clutch release cylinder mounting bolts and tube bracket and then position the cylinder out of the way.
  20.  
  21. Remove the lower starter mounting bolt and then remove the starter.
  22.  
  23. Remove the 4 rear engine mount bolts at the extension housing. Position a block of wood on a floor jack and raise the engine slightly. Remove the 4 rear mount-to-support member bolts and remove the rear engine mount.
  24.  
  25. Tape a piece of wood about 50mm thick onto the front crossmember and then lower the transmission.
  26.  
  27. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket.
  28.  
  29. Remove the stiffener plate bolts.
  30.  
  31. Remove any remaining transmission housing bolts.
  32.  
  33. With a floor jack under the transmission case, pull it toward the rear and slowly lower it until it can be removed from the truck. On models using the R150 transmission, turn the transmission about 45° clockwise and slide it toward the rear, lower the front and then remove it from the truck.
  34.  

Be careful not to damage the extension housing dust deflector.

To install:
  1. Position the transmission case so the input shaft splines align with the clutch disc and push it fully into position. Install the 2 upper mounting bolts.
  2.  
  3. Install the transmission housing and stiffener plate bolts. Tighten the transmission bolts to 53 ft. lbs. (72 Nm) and the stiffener plate bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  4.  
  5. Install the rear engine mount and bracket. Tighten the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  6.  
  7. Raise the engine slightly and position the rear engine mount in the support member and tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  8.  
  9. Lower the transmission until it rests on the rear mount. Install the 4 bolts and tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
  10.  
  11. Remove the piece of wood from the front crossmember.
  12.  
  13. Install the exhaust pipe, bracket and clamp. Tighten the pipe bolts to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm). Tighten the upper pipe bracket bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm) and the lower one to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm).
  14.  
  15. Install the starter with the lower bolt only and install the clutch release cylinder tube bracket.
  16.  
  17. Install the clutch release cylinder and tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  18.  
  19. Connect the speedometer cable.
  20.  
  21. Connect the back-up light switch.
  22.  
  23. Remove the extension housing plug and install the driveshaft.
  24.  
  25. Fill the transmission with oil and lower the truck.
  26.  
  27. Install the upper starter mounting bolt.
  28.  
  29. Install the shift lever.
  30.  
  31. Refill the transmission and radiator. Connect the battery cable and road test the truck.
  32.  



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Fig. Fig. 19: Removing the transmission mount



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Fig. Fig. 20: Removing transmission mounting bolts



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Fig. Fig. 21: Removing transmission mounting gusset bolts



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Fig. Fig. 22: Removing transmission mounting bolts



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Fig. Fig. 23: Removing transmission from the engine assembly



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Fig. Fig. 24: View of the splines on transmission input shaft

Pick-Up and 4Runner-4WD
1970-79

The manual transmission on 4WD Toyota trucks is removed with the transfer case attached.

A special service tool, Toyota #09305-20012 or its equivalent, is needed to remove the transmission shift lever.

  1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
  2.  
  3. Remove the shift lever handles. Remove the front floor mat or carpet along with both shift lever boots to gain access to the shift levers.
  4.  
  5. Using a special shift lever removal tool mentioned previously, remove the transmission shift lever.
  6.  
  7. Using needle nose pliers, remove the transfer case shift lever retainer, then remove the shift lever.
  8.  
  9. Raise the vehicle and support is securely with jackstands.
  10.  

Because of space limitations, it may be necessary to raise both the front and rear of the vehicle. If this is done, place jackstands under both axles as follows: On the outside of the U-bolts at the front axle; on the inside of the U-bolts at the rear axle.

  1. Drain the lubricant from both the transmission and the transfer case.
  2.  
  3. Chalk matchmarks on the driveshaft flanges and the differential pinion flanges to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  4.  
  5. Remove the four bolts from each end of the front driveshaft and remove the driveshaft assembly.
  6.  

Do not disassemble the front driveshaft to remove it.

  1. Chalk matchmarks on the rear driveshaft and the slip yoke to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  2.  
  3. Remove the four bolts from the rearward flange of the rear driveshaft. Lower the driveshaft out of the vehicle. Remove the four bolts from the slip yoke flange then remove the flange and yoke assembly.
  4.  
  5. Unbolt the clutch release cylinder and tie it out of the way.
  6.  

It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch release cylinder.

  1. Disconnect the positive battery cable at the starter motor switch.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the remaining wire at the starter.
  4.  
  5. Remove the two starter retaining bolts and lower the starter out of the vehicle.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transfer case and tie it out of the way.
  8.  
  9. Disconnect the exhaust pipe clamp at the transmission housing.
  10.  
  11. Disconnect the wiring for the back-up lamp switch and the 4WD indictor switch.
  12.  
  13. Remove the crossmember-to-transfer case adaptor mounting bolts. Using a jack, raise the transmission and transfer case assembly SLIGHTLY off of the crossmember, just enough to take the weight off of the crossmember.
  14.  
  15. Remove the crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts and remove the crossmember.
  16.  
  17. Place a support under the engine with a wooden block between the support and the engine.
  18.  


CAUTION
The wooden block and support should be no more than about 6mm away from the engine so that when the engine is lowered, damage will not occur to any underhood components. If possible, shims and support so that the wooden block touches the engine.

  1. Lower the jack until the engine rests on the support.
  2.  

For the next step, it is recommended that you have an assistant help you guide the transmission and transfer case assembly out of the vehicle.

  1. Remove the transmission-to-engine attaching bolts and draw the transmission and transfer case assembly rearward and down away from the engine.
  2.  


CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. To separate the transmission and transfer case, stand the transmission on its front face with the tailshaft pointing upward. Remove the transfer case-to-adapter mounting bolts and lift the transfer case off of the transmission assembly.
  2.  
  3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Check all fluid levels, adjustments and road test the vehicle for proper operation.
  4.  

1980-84

The manual transmission on 4WD Toyota trucks is removed with the transfer case attached.

A special service tool, Toyota #09305-20012 or its equivalent, is needed to remove the transmission shift lever.

  1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
  2.  
  3. Remove the shift lever handles. Remove the front floor mat or carpet along with both shift lever boots to gain access to the shift levers.
  4.  
  5. Using a special shift lever removal tool mentioned previously, remove the transmission shift lever.
  6.  
  7. Using needle nose pliers, remove the transfer case shift lever retainer, then remove the shift lever.
  8.  
  9. Raise the vehicle and support is securely with jackstands.
  10.  

Because of space limitations, it may be necessary to raise both the front and rear of the vehicle. If this is done, place jackstands under both axles as follows: On the outside of the U-bolts at the front axle; on the inside of the U-bolts at the rear axle.

  1. Drain the lubricant from both the transmission and the transfer case.
  2.  
  3. Chalk matchmarks on the driveshaft flanges and the differential pinion flanges to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  4.  
  5. Remove the four bolts from each end of the front driveshaft and remove the driveshaft assembly.
  6.  

Do not disassemble the front driveshaft to remove it.

  1. Chalk matchmarks on the rear driveshaft and the slip yoke to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  2.  
  3. Remove the four bolts from the rearward flange of the rear driveshaft. Lower the driveshaft out of the vehicle. Remove the four bolts from the slip yoke flange then remove the flange and yoke assembly.
  4.  
  5. Unbolt the clutch release cylinder and tie it out of the way.
  6.  

It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch release cylinder.

  1. Remove the starter.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the back-up light switch. Disconnect the transfer indicator switch.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe clamp at the transmission housing.
  8.  
  9. Remove the 4 rear engine mount-to-support member bolts.
  10.  
  11. Using a floor jack, raise the transmission enough to remove any weight from the rear support member.
  12.  
  13. Remove the 8 bolts and lift out the rear support member.
  14.  
  15. Remove any remaining transmission housing bolts.
  16.  
  17. Position a support stand under the engine and lower the engine until it just rests on the support. Remove the transmission/transfer case assembly down and to the rear.
  18.  

To install:
  1. Position the transmission/transfer case assembly and tighten the mounting bolts to 37-57 ft. lbs.
  2.  
  3. While supporting the transmission with a floor jack, install the rear support member and tighten the mounting bolts to 55-75 ft. lbs.
  4.  
  5. Remove the engine support and lower the jack. Install the rear mount-to-support member bolts and tighten them to 8-11 ft. lbs.
  6.  
  7. Connect the exhaust pipe clamp to the transmission housing.
  8.  
  9. Connect the back-up light and transfer indicator switches.
  10.  
  11. Connect the speedometer.
  12.  
  13. Install the starter and the clutch release cylinder.
  14.  

Don't forget to connect the return spring.

  1. Install the driveshafts.
  2.  
  3. Fill the transmission and transfer cases with lubricant and lower the vehicle.
  4.  
  5. Install the shift levers and road test the truck.
  6.  

1985-88

See Figure 25

The manual transmission on 4WD Toyota trucks is removed with the transfer case attached.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 25: Transmission mounting bolts-1985-88 4WD Pick-up and 4Runner

A special service tool, Toyota #09305-20012 or its equivalent, is needed to remove the transmission shift lever.

  1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
  2.  
  3. Remove the shift lever handles. Remove the front floor mat or carpet along with both shift lever boots to gain access to the shift levers.
  4.  
  5. Using a special shift lever removal tool mentioned previously, remove the transmission shift lever.
  6.  
  7. Using needle nose pliers, remove the transfer case shift lever retainer, then remove the shift lever.
  8.  
  9. Raise the vehicle and support is securely with jackstands.
  10.  

Because of space limitations, it may be necessary to raise both the front and rear of the vehicle. If this is done, place jackstands under both axles as follows: On the outside of the U-bolts at the front axle; on the inside of the U-bolts at the rear axle.

  1. Drain the lubricant from both the transmission and the transfer case.
  2.  
  3. Chalk matchmarks on the driveshaft flanges and the differential pinion flanges to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  4.  
  5. Remove the four bolts from each end of the front driveshaft and remove the driveshaft assembly.
  6.  

Do not disassemble the front driveshaft to remove it.

  1. Chalk matchmarks on the rear driveshaft and the slip yoke to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  2.  
  3. Remove the four bolts from the rearward flange of the rear driveshaft. Lower the driveshaft out of the vehicle. Remove the four bolts from the slip yoke flange then remove the flange and yoke assembly.
  4.  
  5. Remove the starter.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  8.  
  9. Disconnect the back-up light switch. Disconnect the transfer indicator switch.
  10.  
  11. Unbolt the clutch release cylinder and tie it out of the way.
  12.  

It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch release cylinder.

  1. Disconnect the exhaust pipe clamp at the transmission housing. Remove the exhaust pipe.
  2.  
  3. Remove the 4 rear engine mount-to-support member bolts.
  4.  
  5. Using a floor jack, raise the transmission enough to remove any weight from the rear support member.
  6.  
  7. Remove the 4 bolts from the side frame and remove the No. 2 crossmember.
  8.  
  9. Position a piece of wood between the oil pan and front axle. Lower the transmission/transfer case assembly.
  10.  
  11. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket and stiffener plate bolts.
  12.  
  13. Remove any remaining transmission housing bolts.
  14.  
  15. Position a support stand under the engine and lower the engine until it just rests on the support. Remove the transmission/transfer case assembly down and to the rear.
  16.  

To install:
  1. Position the transmission/transfer case assembly and tighten the mounting bolts to 53 ft. lbs. (72 Nm). Tighten the stiffener plate bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Raise the transmission slightly and install the No. 2 crossmember bolts. Tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  4.  
  5. Lower the transmission and install the rear engine mount. Tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
  6.  
  7. Remove the piece of wood from the axle.
  8.  
  9. Install the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the pipe bracket and tighten the upper bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Tighten the lower bolt to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm).
  10.  
  11. Install the exhaust pipe clamp.
  12.  
  13. Connect the back-up light and transfer indicator switches.
  14.  
  15. Connect the speedometer.
  16.  
  17. Install the starter and the clutch release cylinder.
  18.  

Don't forget to connect the return spring.

  1. Install the driveshafts.
  2.  
  3. Fill the transmission and transfer cases with lubricant and lower the vehicle.
  4.  
  5. Install the shift levers and road test the truck.
  6.  

Land Cruiser
1970-79

Steps 2-4 pertain to 2 door models.

  1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front seats, seat tracks, and the console box, if so equipped.
  4.  
  5. Remove the heater pipe clamp which is located on the transmission tunnel to the right of the transfer case shift lever.
  6.  
  7. If the fuel tank is mounted beneath the passenger seat, drain the fuel, remove the fuel tank cover, disconnect the lines, etc., and remove the fuel tank.
  8.  
  9. Remove the shift lever knobs and the shift lever boots.
  10.  
  11. Using Toyota special service tool #09305-60010 or its equivalent, remove the transmission shift lever.
  12.  
  13. Remove the transmission tunnel cover.
  14.  
  15. Raise the vehicle and support it safely with jackstands.
  16.  
  17. Drain the lubricant from both the transmission and the transfer case.
  18.  
  19. Remove the undercover located beneath the front driveshaft.
  20.  
  21. Chalk matchmarks on the driveshaft flanges and the differential pinion flanges to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  22.  
  23. Unbolt the driveshaft flanges and remove both the front and rear driveshafts.
  24.  
  25. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transfer case and tie it out of the way.
  26.  
  27. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the parking brake lever. Leave the cable attached at the drum end; the cable will be removed with the transmission and transfer case assembly.
  28.  
  29. If the vehicle is equipped with a vacuum 4WD engagement system, mark and disconnect the following items at the transfer case:

    Wiring for the indicator
     
    Wiring for the transfer switch
     
    Vacuum hoses
     

  30.  
  31. Disconnect the wiring for the back-up lamp switch. Unbolt the back-up lamp wiring harness clamp from the transfer case, if so equipped.
  32.  
  33. On column shift models, disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission.
  34.  
  35. Remove the Power Take-Off (PTO) lever, if so equipped.
  36.  
  37. Remove the crossmember-to-transfer case adaptor mounting bolts. Using a jack, raise the transmission and transfer case assembly SLIGHTLY off of the crossmember, just enough to take the weight off of the crossmember.
  38.  
  39. Remove the crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts and remove the crossmember.
  40.  
  41. Place a support under the engine with a wooden block between the support and the engine.
  42.  


CAUTION
The wooden block and support should be no more than about 6mm away from the engine so that when the engine is lowered, damage will not occur to any underhood components. If possible, shims and support so that the wooden block touches the engine.

  1. Lower the jack until the engine rests on the support.
  2.  

For the next step, it is recommended that you have an assistant help you guide the transmission and transfer case assembly out of the vehicle.

  1. Remove the transmission-to-engine attaching bolts and draw the transmission and transfer case assembly rearward and down away from the engine.
  2.  


CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. To separate the transmission from the transfer case:
    1. Remove the 4WD engagement lever guide.
    2.  
    3. Remove the 4WD lever and rod as an assembly.
    4.  
    5. Remove the back-up lamp switch.
    6.  
    7. If the vehicle is equipped with a PTO, remove the PTO unit from the transmission. If the vehicle does not have a PTO, remove the cover from the left side of the transfer case.
    8.  
    9. Remove the rear transfer case cover (six bolts) from the transfer case. Remove the shaft nut located behind the cover.
    10.  

  2.  

This nut is staked at the factory. To remove it, you must tap the staked portions outward to clear the shaft. Restake the nut after installation.

    1. Remove the 5 transfer case-to-transmission bolts.
    2.  


Two of these bolts are located inside the left side of the transfer case, where the PTO or cover was previously removed.

    1. Using a puller assembled to the transfer case and the transmission output shaft, separate the transfer case from the transmission.
    2.  

  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Check all fluid levels and adjustments, roadtest the vehicle for proper operation.
  2.  

1980-88
  1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
  2.  
  3. Remove the entrance scuff plates from the floor of the interior.
  4.  
  5. Remove both side trim panels from beneath the instrument panel.
  6.  
  7. Remove the center heater duct.
  8.  
  9. Remove the floor mat or carpet.
  10.  
  11. Remove the handles from both shift levers.
  12.  
  13. Remove the transmission tunnel cover along with the shift lever boots.
  14.  
  15. Disconnect the wiring from both the back-up lamp switch and the 4WD indicator (if so equipped).
  16.  
  17. Using Toyota SST #09305-55010 or its equivalent, remove the transmission shift lever.
  18.  
  19. Raise the vehicle and support it safely with jackstands.
  20.  
  21. Remove the transfer case skid plate.
  22.  
  23. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transfer case and tie it out of the way.
  24.  
  25. Chalk matchmarks on the driveshaft flanges and the differential pinion flanges to indicate their relationships. These marks must be aligned during installation.
  26.  
  27. Remove the mounting bolts from the driveshaft flanges and remove the driveshaft assemblies.
  28.  
  29. Disconnect the starter wire. Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter from the vehicle.
  30.  
  31. Unbolt the clutch release cylinder and move it out of the way.
  32.  

It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic line from the release cylinder.

  1. Drain the lubricant from both the transmission and the transfer case.
  2.  
  3. Remove the tachometer sensor, if so equipped.
  4.  
  5. Support the transmission on a jack and remove the rear engine support/frame crossmember.
  6.  
  7. Loosen but do not remove the clutch housing-to-engine block bolts. Drop the transmission down slightly and then remove the bolts completely. The transmission must be drawn to the rear of the truck while lowering so that it will clear the clutch assembly.
  8.  

To install:
  1. Before installing the transmission, apply a thin coating of multipurpose grease on the input shaft end and splines, the clutch release bearing, and the clutch diaphragm spring contact surfaces.
  2.  


CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

When installing the transmission, it is necessary to use an alignment tool to center the clutch disc. These are available at auto parts stores.

After aligning the clutch, insert the transmission input shaft, being certain that its splines are properly meshed with those on the clutch. Use a jack to support the transmission while aligning the mounting bolts of the clutch housing. Tighten the clutch housing-to-engine block bolts to 36-51 ft. lbs.

After installing all the components removed earlier, adjust the parking brake if necessary and the clutch release fork end play. Apply gear oil to the shift lever ball, and the multipurpose grease to the shift lever bushing. Be certain that the driveshaft matchmarks are aligned. Fill the engine cooling system and check the level of transmission oil before road testing the truck.

If the clutch master cylinder hydraulic system has been separated at one of its connections, the system will have to be bled.

OVERHAUL



Pick-Up and 4Runner
L-SERIES

See Figure 26

The following procedures are for a L-Series 4 speed, other L-Series transmissions use similar procedures.

The shifting controls are mounted in a side cover on the transmission case. The remote controls are either column or floor mounted.

  1. Remove speedometer drive unit in the extension housing (Except 4WD Pick-Up).
  2.  
  3. Some models have a driveshaft flange and crimped nut at the end of the extension housing. Remove them. Unbolt and remove the extension housing.
  4.  
  5. Unbolt and remove the case cover assembly.
  6.  
  7. Remove the release fork and bearing. Remove the front bearing retainer inside the bell housing.
  8.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 26: Exploded view of the L-Series transmission

  1. Unbolt and remove the clutch bell housing.
  2.  
  3. Using a brass rod, gently tap the reverse idler gear shaft toward the rear and remove it. Remove the reverse idler gear.
  4.  
  5. Check the countergear thrust clearance with a feeler gauge, record the reading, then pick the proper adjusting gear side thrust washer to obtain the specified clearance of 0.10-0.25mm.
  6.  
  7. Using a dummy shaft, drive out the countershaft and the Woodruff key to the rear. Allow the countergear to drop into the case.
  8.  
  9. Shift the hub sleeve toward the top speed and draw out the output shaft. Be careful not to lose the synchronizer ring.
  10.  
  11. Turn the input shaft assembly so that one of the flat sides of the synchronizer engagement teeth on the input shaft clears the countergear and remove the input shaft.
  12.  
  13. Remove the countergear along with its thrust washers.
  14.  
  15. Secure the output shaft in a soft-jawed vise. Remove the spacer and snapring at the rear end of the output shaft if so equipped. Remove the snapring behind the speedometer drive gear and remove the gear along with its Woodruff key and 2nd snapring.
  16.  
  17. Check and record the following clearances: 1st gear thrust clearance, 2nd gear thrust clearance, 3rd gear thrust clearance and clearance between snapring and clutch hub.
  18.  
  19. Remove the snapring holding the clutch hub in place and remove clutch hub and 3rd speed gear.
  20.  
  21. Remove the snapring behind the rear bearing and press the bearing off the shaft with the 1st speed gear. Be careful not to lose the small locking ball. Do not attempt to force the bearing and 1st speed gear off by striking on the end of the output shaft, or you may damage the shaft.
  22.  
  23. Remove the synchronizer rings and clutch hub along with reverse and 2nd gears.
  24.  
  25. Loosen and remove the back-up light switch. Move the 3rd and 4th shift fork into the 4th speed position (to the front).
  26.  
  27. Using a long drift punch, drive out the slotted spring pin which connects the shift fork to the shift fork shaft.
  28.  
  29. Slide the shift fork shaft out of the rear of the case cover gradually, preventing the lockball from popping out under spring tension. Remove the lockball, spring and two interlock pins from the case cover.
  30.  
  31. Drive the slotted spring pin out of the 1st and 2nd shift fork and the shift fork shaft in the same manner. Remove the shift fork shaft and the shift fork, then remove the lockball and the spring from the case cover.
  32.  
  33. Remove the shift arm pivot locknut. Remove the shift arm from the case cover. Drive out the slotted spring pin, and remove the reverse shift head and the shift fork shaft. Remove the lockball and the spring. Remove the selector outer lever and the selector lever shaft.
  34.  
  35. Remove the shift lever shaft lockbolt, slide out the shift lever shaft from the case cover. Be careful to prevent the lockball from popping out under spring tension.
  36.  
  37. Remove the sliding shift lever, lockball and spring. Remove the wire and shift lever lockbolt.
  38.  
  39. Remove the shift and selector lever shaft toward the rear side of the case.
  40.  
  41. Wash all disassembled parts thoroughly. Check the transmission case, case cover and the extension housing for cracks; check the bearing fitting portions and gasket surfaces for burrs and nicks. Check the output shaft splines, snapring grooves, bearing contact surfaces, bearing fitting portions and oil seal lip contact surface for wear, scores, or damage. Check the output shaft for run-out. If the run-out exceeds 0.06mm replace the shaft. To measure run-out, place a dial indicator on the center point of the shaft and rotate the shaft slowly to read the maximum and minimum values. The run-out equals the maximum value minus the minimum value divided by two. Check the bearings for roughness and wear. Check for noise or damage by rotating the bearing after applying a few drops of oil. To remove the input shaft bearing, remove the shaft snapring with a snapring expander, then remove the bearing from the input shaft with a puller. Check the bushings and the bearing rollers for abnormal wear. If the wear is excessive, replace the bushing or the bearing rollers. Inspect the extension housing bushing for wear or scoring. To replace the bushing, press the bushing out of the extension housing to the front side. To install, align the oil grooves of the bushing and the extension housing, and press the bushing into the housing. After installing the bushing, ream the bushing to fit the outer diameter of the universal joint sleeve yoke.
  42.  
  43. Gear Backlash:

    Input shaft gear to countergear: 0.10mm
     
    3rd gear to countergear: 0.10-0.20mm
     
    2nd gear to countergear: 0.10-0.20mm
     
    1st gear to countergear: 0.10-0.20mm
     
    Reverse idler gear to countergear: 0.10-0.20mm
     
    Reverse idler gear to reverse gear: 0.10-0.20mm
     

  44.  

To assemble:
  1. Assembly is performed in the following order:
  2.  

Always install new gaskets, apply liquid sealer or gasket cement when assembling. Apply a thin coating of transmission lubricant on all parts before installation. Thrust clearances of gears and bearings are important factors for smooth shifting. Therefore, select and assemble thrust washers, snaprings and spacers of proper thickness.

  1. If the shifting hubs have been disassembled, reassemble them by: Install the two shifting springs in the inner hub with the spring ends 120° apart, so that the spring tension on each shifting key will be uniform. Place the three shifting keys into the clutch hub key slots and onto the shifting springs. The shifting keys for each hub are of different sizes. The keys with the shorter straddle length should be installed on the 3rd and 4th gear synchronizer unit. Slide the hub sleeve onto the clutch hub. The clutch hubs and the hub sleeves of the gear are matched, and should be kept together as an assembly for smooth operation.
  2.  

The hubs fit into the clutch sleeves directionally, that is, they must fit into the clutch sleeves facing a certain way.

  1. Install the 2nd gear and its synchronizer ring on the output shaft. Install the 1st and 2nd gear clutch hub behind 2nd gear. Be sure to align the grooves in the synchronizer ring with the shift keys in the clutch hub. Place the small steel lockball in its slot on the output shaft.
  2.  
  3. Oil and place the roller bearings on the bushing. Slide the bushing into the 1st speed gear with the collared end of the bushing butting the flat side of the gear. Fit the synchronizer ring on the other side of the gear and insert the gear on the output shaft. Take care to fit the notch in the bushing over the steel lockball and align the notches in the synchronizer ring with those in the clutch hub.
  4.  
  5. Press the bearing retainer assembly on the output shaft. Check the gears for smooth rotation. Select a snapring that will give 0-0.15mm clearance on the output shaft and install. Five different snapring thicknesses are available.
  6.  
  7. Check the 2nd and 1st gear thrust clearances. The allowable limits are 0.10-0.25mm.
  8.  
  9. Install 1st speedometer snapring and Woodruff key on the output shaft and install speedometer gear and 2nd snapring.
  10.  
  11. Oil and install the 3rd speed gear on the front of the output shaft. Fit its synchronizer ring and install the clutch hub, making sure to align the grooves in the synchronizer with the keys in the clutch hub.
  12.  
  13. Select a snapring that will give an allowable thrust clearance of 0-0.15mm between the hub end and the snapring. Fit the snapring.
  14.  
  15. Measure the thrust clearance of the 3rd speed gear. Allowable limit for clearance is 0.10-0.25mm.
  16.  
  17. Assemble the countergear by placing the spacers and greased roller bearings in both ends and fitting a tube or rod that is the exact length of the countergear with the thrust washers on its ends and fit it into the countergear.
  18.  
  19. Referring to the thrust measurement on the countergear when disassembling, select thrust washers that give an allowable clearance of 0.10-0.25mm. Adjust clearance by replacing the rear thrust washer.
  20.  
  21. Install the thrust washers on the ends of the countergear. Rear thrust washers are identified by Number 1, 2, 3 or 4 stamped on their outside face. Be sure to install the washers with their protruding groove facing out.
  22.  
  23. Place the countergear assembly into the case with the notches in the thrust washers facing up and align the notches with the case grooves.
  24.  
  25. Allow the countergear to drop down into the case. Do not replace the countergear shaft at this point.
  26.  
  27. Install the input shaft in the same manner of removal, aligning one of the flat sides of the clutch hub with the large countershaft gear and, using a brass drift, drive the input shaft bearing into the case, tapping it around the outer ball race.
  28.  
  29. Fit the synchronizer ring on the input shaft. Shift the clutch hub on the end of the output shaft forward.
  30.  
  31. Fit the output shaft into the case, making sure the slotted spring pin in the bearing retainer aligns with its groove in the case, and align the grooves in the synchronizer ring with the clutch hub keys.
  32.  
  33. Oil the countershaft. Raise the countergear assembly so that it aligns with the case holes and, making sure the thrust washers are in place, insert the countergear shaft from the rear of the case with the Woodruff key slot at the rear. The countergear shaft will push the tube out of the case. Install the Woodruff key and fit it into its slot in the case.
  34.  
  35. Install the reverse idler gear with its toothed end facing forward. Slide the reverse idler gear shaft in with its Woodruff key slot end facing the rear. Install the Woodruff key and tap the shaft in so that the key is in its seat in the case.
  36.  
  37. Install the front bearing retainer. Be sure to align the oil seal slot in the retainer with the oil hole in the case. Coat the bolt threads with sealer and tighten to 5-6 ft. lbs.
  38.  
  39. Install the clutch bell housing. Coat the bolt threads with sealer and tighten to 37-50 ft. lbs.
  40.  
  41. Install clutch release fork assembly.
  42.  
  43. Apply grease to the extension housing rear oil seal and install the extension housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal on the output shaft when assembling.
  44.  
  45. Coat the extension housing bolts with sealer and tighten to 22-32 ft. lbs.
  46.  
  47. Oil the speedometer gear assembly and fasten to the extension housing.
  48.  
  49. To assemble the transmission case cover, install the shift arm pivot onto the reverse shift arm, and insert into the case.
  50.  
  51. Assemble the shift and selector lever shaft together with the shift and selector lever, and secure the bolt with a wire.
  52.  
  53. Insert the reverse shift fork shaft compression spring and lockball into the case, and insert the fork shaft from the rear side, then secure the shift head with a new slotted spring pin.
  54.  
  55. Align the fork shaft positioning groove with the shift interlock pin groove.
  56.  
  57. Align the reverse shift arm knob with the reverse shift fork shaft, and install the O-ring, washer and nut onto the shift arm pivot. Insert the shift interlock pin into the rear side of the case cover and the compression spring and lockball into the front side, and assemble the shift fork together with the 1st and 2nd shift fork shaft. Secure the shift fork with a new slotted spring pin.
  58.  
  59. Align the shift fork shaft positioning groove with the shift interlock pin groove. Insert the two shift interlock pins into the front side of the case cover.
  60.  
  61. Insert the compression spring and the lockball, and assemble the shift fork together with the 3rd and 4th shift fork shaft, then secure the shift fork with a new slotted spring pin.
  62.  
  63. Install the lockball, compression spring and reverse restricting ball holder.
  64.  
  65. Check all shift forks for smooth movement. Tighten to 27-32 ft. lbs.
  66.  
  67. Install the back-up light switch on the case cover.
  68.  
  69. Align each shift fork and the reverse shift arm with the respective gears, and install the transmission case cover, within the gasket, onto the transmission. Torque the case cover retaining bolts to 11-16 ft. lbs.
  70.  
  71. To adjust the shift arm pivot, loosen the locknut on the shift arm pivot, turn the shift arm pivot clockwise until friction is felt, when the reverse idler gear contacts with the 1st gear and/or the countergear.
  72.  
  73. Next from this position, turn the shift arm pivot counterclockwise approximately 90 degrees. Tighten the pivot locknut securely.
  74.  
  75. With the input shaft rotating, make sure that there is no noise and that the reverse idler gear does not contact other gears in the transmission.
  76.  
  77. If no friction is felt when the shift arm pivot is turned clockwise, set the pivot line mark at 60 degrees rearward from its horizontal position to the case cover surface.
  78.  
  79. If necessary, replace the oil seal in the extension housing after assembling the transmission using the oil seal puller, and pull out the oil seal together with the dust seal.
  80.  

W-SERIES

See Figures 27 and 28

The following procedures are for a W-Series 5 speed transmission, other W-Series transmissions use similar procedures.

  1. Drain the oil.
  2.  
  3. Remove the clutch housing, with the release fork, bearing and hub still attached.
  4.  
  5. Remove the back-up light switch.
  6.  
  7. Remove the gearshift lever retainer.
  8.  
  9. Rotate the shift rod housing counterclockwise (viewed from behind) and then disconnect the rod from the shift fork shafts.
  10.  
  11. Unbolt and remove the extension housing.
  12.  
  13. Drive out the slotted pin and separate the shift rod, housing and spring.
  14.  
  15. Remove the front bearing retainer.
  16.  
  17. Take off both of the front countershaft covers, and the spacer.
  18.  
  19. Remove the snaprings from the input and countershaft bearings.
  20.  
  21. Remove the intermediate plate.
  22.  
  23. When removing the intermediate plate, leave all the gears and other parts attached.
  24.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 27: Exploded view of the W-Series transmission



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 28: Exploded view of the W-Series transmission

  1. Remove the speedometer driven gear. There are two reverse restrictor pins. The pins are located underneath plugs on the extension housing.
  2.  
  3. Remove the straight screw plugs from the shift forks and withdraw the springs.
  4.  
  5. Drive the slotted spring pins out of each shift fork.
  6.  
  7. Slide the gear shift fork shafts back and remove the forks.
  8.  
  9. Remove the speedometer drive gear snapring and remove the drive gear.
  10.  
  11. Remove the output shaft bearing.
  12.  
  13. Remove the countershaft bearing.
  14.  
  15. Remove the 5th and reverse gears from the countershaft.
  16.  
  17. Remove the snapring, 5th gear, its synchronizer ring, needle roller bearing, and 5th gear bearing inner race from the output shaft.
  18.  
  19. Remove the reverse gear and clutch hub from the output shaft.
  20.  
  21. Loosen the bolt and remove the reverse idler gear stop from the rear cover. Withdraw the reverse idler shaft from the rear; remove the reverse idler gear and spacer.
  22.  
  23. Remove the output shaft rear bearing retainer. Remove the rear bearing snapring.
  24.  
  25. Push the countergear bearing outer race rearward, and remove the bearing. Separate the countergear from the intermediate plate.
  26.  
  27. Separate the input shaft and synchronizer ring from the output shaft.
  28.  
  29. Remove the output shaft from the intermediate plate.
  30.  
  31. Remove the hub and synchronizer ring, followed by 3rd gear.
  32.  
  33. Press off the rear bearing.
  34.  
  35. Remove the following items from the output shaft, in the order listed: 1st gear. Roller bearing with inner race. Synchronizer ring. Reverse gear. Clutch hub. 2nd gear. Synchronizer ring.
  36.  

To assemble:
  1. Install the sleeve over the 3rd gear synchronizer hub. Insert the three shift keys into the hub and sleeve keyways. Install the hub two springs.
  2.  
  3. Assemble the synchronizer ring to 3rd gear, and fit both of them on the output shaft.
  4.  
  5. Insert the 3rd/4th synchronizer hub on the output shaft, until it contacts the shoulder of the shaft.
  6.  
  7. Select a snapring to provide 0.05mm axial play for the synchronizer hub and fit it onto the shaft. snaprings are available in a range of sizes.
  8.  
  9. Measure 3rd gear thrust clearance with a feeler gauge. The clearance should be 0.10-0.25mm. Replace 3rd gear if the clearance exceeds the limit of 0.25mm.
  10.  
  11. Install the synchronizer ring for 2nd gear to the gear and install the assembly on the output shaft.
  12.  
  13. Install the reverse gear over its clutch hub.
  14.  
  15. Install the reverse gear and hub on the output shaft so that they contact the shoulder.
  16.  
  17. Measure 2nd gear thrust clearance; it should be between 0.10-0.25mm. Replace the gear if the clearance is more than 0.25mm.
  18.  
  19. Coat the locking ball with grease. Insert it, and the roller bearing inner race, on the output shaft.
  20.  
  21. Assemble 1st gear with its synchronizer ring, bearing and bearing inner race. Install them on the output shaft, so that the end of the inner race contacts the clutch hub and the groove on the inner race aligns with the locking ball.
  22.  
  23. Press the rear bearing onto the output shaft.
  24.  
  25. Measure 1st gear thrust clearance.
  26.  

The thrust clearance of all gears in the should be between 0.15-0.25mm; the thrust clearance limit for all gears is 0.30mm.

  1. Use a press to insert the straight pin into the intermediate plate, until it protrudes 1 / 4 - 5 / 16 in. from the cover front side.
  2.  
  3. Install the output shaft on the intermediate plate.
  4.  
  5. Coat the roller bearing with grease and install it over the input shaft.
  6.  
  7. Apply gear oil to the front synchronizer ring on the output shaft.
  8.  
  9. Assemble the output shaft and the input shaft.
  10.  
  11. Install the countergear on the intermediate plate.
  12.  
  13. Install the cylindrical roller bearing into the intermediate plate, and then install the spacer.
  14.  
  15. Assemble the output shaft and countergear, then fit them through the holes in the intermediate plate. Push them in until the snapring sticks out beyond the intermediate plate. Install the snapring and then push the shafts back until the snapring is flush with the intermediate plate surface.
  16.  
  17. Install the shaft through the reverse idler gear. Insert the end of the shaft into the end of the intermediate plate.
  18.  
  19. Install the spacer on the idler shaft and secure it with a snapring.
  20.  
  21. Lock the reverse idler shaft on the intermediate plate with its stop. Check the reverse idler gear thrust clearance, it should be 0.15-0,25mm.
  22.  
  23. Install the reverse clutch hub on the reverse gear.
  24.  
  25. Install the three shift keys into the hub keyways and secure them with the two springs and a snapring.
  26.  
  27. Slide the reverse gear hub over the output shaft until it registers against the inner race of the intermediate plate bearing.
  28.  
  29. Insert the inner race lockball into the output shaft bore, after greasing it so that it can't fall out.
  30.  
  31. Assemble 5th gear, its synchronizer ring, needle roller bearing, and race. Slide the assembly onto the output shaft until the inner bear face rests against the reverse clutch hub. Be sure that the inner race groove is aligned with the lockball.
  32.  
  33. Secure 5th gear with a snapring.
  34.  
  35. Measure 5th gear thrust clearance; it should be 0.10-0.25mm. The thrust clearance limit is 0.30mm.
  36.  
  37. Install the countershaft reverse gear so that it just rests against the bearing inner race. Install the countershaft 5th gear and then install the countershaft bearing with a brass drift.
  38.  
  39. Install a snapring on the countershaft; select a snapring from one of the four available sizes.
  40.  
  41. Install a snapring on the output shaft, and drive its bearing into place with a brass drift. Coat the bearing with grease first.
  42.  
  43. Install the spacer, ball, and speedometer drive gear on the output shaft.
  44.  
  45. Install the three shift forks in their hub sleeve grooves. Install the 1st and 3rd shift fork shafts and secure them with their interlock pins. Install the 2nd shift fork shaft next.
  46.  

Place each shift fork shaft in Neutral during assembly.

  1. Secure the shift fork shafts to the end cover by inserting the lockballs into their bores, followed by the lockball springs.
  2.  
  3. Use a new gasket between the transmission case and the intermediate plate. Slide the case into place.
  4.  
  5. Fit snaprings on the input shaft and countershaft front bearings.
  6.  
  7. Install the shift lever housing on the end of the shifter shaft. Slide the shifter shaft into the extension housing and secure it with a slotted spring pin.
  8.  
  9. Install a new gasket and slide the extension housing into place, until there is about an inch of clearance between it and the intermediate plate.
  10.  
  11. Rotate the shift lever housing clockwise (as viewed from the rear) to engage the shifter shaft with the selector lever and the shift fork shaft.
  12.  
  13. Slide the extension housing the rest of the way.
  14.  
  15. Install the spacer and then the countershaft end covers.
  16.  
  17. Align the front bearing retainer gasket with the oil holes. Install the bearing retainer over the gasket.
  18.  
  19. Bolt the clutch housing onto the front of the transmission case.
  20.  
  21. Fit the restrictor pins and springs into their extension housing bores.
  22.  
  23. Install the shift lever retainer over the oil baffle on the extension housing.
  24.  
  25. Install the shift lever conical spring, large side down, and install the ball seat in the shift lever retainer.
  26.  
  27. Attach the shift lever retainer to the extension housing.
  28.  
  29. Install the speedometer driven gear.
  30.  
  31. Install the back-up light switch.
  32.  
  33. Check to see that the input shaft has no more than 0.50mm end-play. Put the transmission in Neutral and see if the output shaft can be rotated freely by hand.
  34.  

G-SERIES

See Figures 29 and 30

  1. Remove the back-up light switch, speedometer driven gear, shift lever retainer and shift lever restrictor pins. Remove the clutch housing from the transmission.
  2.  
  3. From the side of the transfer case, remove the torx headed plug, the spring and ball. Remove the torx plug from the back of the transfer adapter. Remove the shift lever housing set bolt and lock washer and remove the shift lever shaft and housing.
  4.  
  5. Remove the transfer adapter mounting bolts and the adapter.
  6.  
  7. Remove the front transmission mainshaft bearing retainer and the two snaprings.
  8.  
  9. Separate the intermediate mounting plate and gear assemblies from the transmission case.
  10.  
  11. Secure the intermediate plate and gear assemblies in a vise. Use blocks to prevent clamping directly on the aluminum intermediate plate.
  12.  
  13. Use a torx socket and remove the four plugs from the side of the intermediate plate. Remove the springs and ball from behind the plugs.
  14.  
  15. Remove the slotted spring pins using a pin punch and hammer. Remove the two E-rings from the shift shafts. Pull No. 4 shift fork shaft from the intermediate plate. Catch the locking balls and interlocking pin and remove the shift fork shaft No. 4 and No. 3 shift fork.
  16.  
  17. Pull out No. 5 shift fork shaft and remove it with the reverse shift head.
  18.  
  19. Pull out No. 3 shift fork shaft and No. 1 shift fork shaft from the intermediate plate. Pull out shift fork shaft No. 2 and remove shift fork No. 2 and No. 1.
  20.  
  21. Remove the reverse idler gear shaft stopper and remove the idler gear and shaft.
  22.  
  23. Remove the reverse shift arm from the reverse shift arm bracket.
  24.  
  25. Measure the 5th gear clearance on the countershaft. Clearance should be 0.01-0.03mm.
  26.  
  27. Remove the 5th gear synchronizer ring, needle bearings and 5th gear from the countershaft by engaging the gear and using a hammer and chisel to loosen the staked nut. Remove the nut, disengage the gear and, using a puller, remove the gear splined No. 5 synchronizer assembly, needle bearing and 5th gear from the countershaft.
  28.  
  29. Remove the spacer and ball from the countershaft. Remove the two bolts and the reverse shift arm bracket. Use a torx socket and remove the rear bearing retainer.
  30.  
  31. Remove the snapring from the main output shaft and remove the output shaft, countershaft and input shaft as an assembly. Separate the output shaft and needle bearings (14) from the input shaft. Remove the countershaft rear bearing from the intermediate plate. Remove the sleeve from the output shaft using an appropriate puller. Measure each gear thrust clearance, maximum clearance is 0.25mm.
  32.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 29: Exploded view of the G-Series transmission



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 30: Exploded view of the G-Series transmission

  1. Press off the 5th gear, rear bearing and 1st gear assemblies after removing the retaining snapring. Remove the locking ball.
  2.  
  3. Press off the No. 1 synchronizer assembly and 2nd gear. Remove the needle bearing. Remove the snapring and press off No. 2 synchronizer assembly and 3rd gear. Remove the needle bearing.
  4.  
  5. Inspect all parts and replace as necessary. Required clearances:

    Output flange thickness: 4.8mm
     
    Inner race flange thickness: 4.0mm
     
    Output shaft journal thickness: 2nd gear: 38mm, 3rd gear: 35mm
     
    Shaft out-of-round: 0.05mm
     
    Synchronizer ring clearance: 0.10-2.0mm
     
    Shift forks to hub sleeves: 1.0mm max.
     

  6.  

To assemble:
  1. Replace the grease retainers as necessary. Check and replace the input shaft and the countershaft front bearings if necessary. Select a snapring that will allow the minimum axial play.
  2.  
  3. Assemble the gears and synchronizers in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the synchronizers are installed facing in the proper direction. Use snaprings that will allow a minimum of axial play. Check clearances of all gears, synchronizers and bearings.
  4.  
  5. After the input, output and countershafts are ready for installation (reverse order of removal): Install the output shaft into the intermediate plate by pulling on the output shaft and tapping on the intermediate plate with a soft hammer.
  6.  
  7. Apply MP grease to the needle bearings and install them in position on the input shaft. Install the input shaft to the output shaft with the synchronizer ring slots aligned with the shifting keys.
  8.  
  9. Install the countershaft and bearing to the intermediate plate. Install the output shaft snapring flush with the intermediate plate. Install the rear bearing retainer on the intermediate plate. Tighten the retainers to 13 ft. lbs. Install the reverse shift arm bracket. Install the ball and spacer on the countershaft and install the 5th gear with hub and needle bearings. Install the synchronizer assembly with the ring slots aligned with the shifting keys. Engage the gear and install the locknut. Torque the locknut to 87 ft. lbs. and stake the locknut. Disengage the gears. Check 5th gear thrust clearance.
  10.  
  11. Install the reverse shift arm to the pivot of the reverse shift arm bracket.
  12.  
  13. Install the reverse idler gear and shaft. Align the reverse shift arm shoe with the reverse idler gear groove and insert the reverse idler gear shaft into the intermediate plate. Install the gear shaft stopper and tighten the retaining bolt to 13 ft. lbs.
  14.  
  15. Position No. 1 and No. 2 shift forks into the grooves of their respective hub sleeves and install the No. 2 fork shaft through the forks and intermediate plate. Apply MP grease to the interlock pins and install the pins into the forks and intermediate plate.
  16.  
  17. Install the interlock pin in No. 1 shift shaft hole. Install the shift shaft through fork No. 1 and the intermediate plate. Install the interlock pin into the intermediate plate.
  18.  
  19. Install the interlock pin to the head of shift shaft No. 3. Install the shaft through the reverse shift arm and the intermediate plate.
  20.  
  21. Install the reverse shift head into fork shaft No. 5. Install fork shaft No. 5 to the intermediate plate and put the reverse shift head onto shift fork shaft No. 3.
  22.  
  23. Install the locking ball into the reverse shift head hole. Shift the No. 3 synchronizer hub sleeve to the 5th speed position. Place shift fork No. 3 into the groove of hub sleeve No. 3 and install fork shaft No. 4 to shift fork No. 4 and the reverse shift arm. Install the locking ball into the intermediate plate and insert fork shaft No. 4 to the intermediate plate.
  24.  
  25. Shift fork shaft No. 1 to the 1st speed position. Forks No. 2, No. 3, No. 4 and No. 5 should not move. Install the slotted retainer spring pins into each shift fork, reverse shift arm and reverse shift head. Install the two fork shaft E-rings. Apply sealer to the locking ball cover screw plugs. Install the locking balls, springs and screw plugs with a Torx socket and tighten to 14 ft. lbs. The short spring goes in the bottom of the intermediate plate.
  26.  
  27. Mount the intermediate plate and gear assemblies to the transmission. Align each bearing outer race, each fork end and reverse idler shaft with the case installation holes, tap with a plastic hammer if necessary to help with alignment. Install the two bearing snaprings.
  28.  
  29. Install the front bearing retainer with a new gasket after applying sealer to the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 12 ft. lbs.
  30.  
  31. Install a new gasket on the intermediate plate. Install the transfer adapter and eight mounting bolts, torque the bolts to 27 ft. lbs. Insert the shift lever housing to the transfer adapter and connect the shift fork shafts. Insert the shift lever shaft to the transfer adapter and shift lever housing. Install and torque the shift lever housing bolt, torque to 28 ft. lbs. Install the front Torx plug cover, tighten to 27 ft. lbs.
  32.  
  33. Install the side locking ball, spring and screw plug. Apply sealer to the plug before installation, torque to 14 ft. lbs.
  34.  
  35. After installing the extension housing or transfer adapter, check to see that the input and output shafts rotate smoothly. Check to see that shifting can be made smoothly in all positions.
  36.  
  37. Install the black restrict pin on the reverse gear/5th gear side. Install the other restrict pin and torque both to 20 ft. lbs.
  38.  
  39. Install the clutch housing and torque the bolts to 27 ft, lbs. Install the shift lever retainer and new gasket. Tighten to 13 ft. lbs.
  40.  
  41. Install the back-up light switch (27 ft. lbs.). Install the release fork and bearing and install the transmission.
  42.  

R-SERIES

See Figures 31 and 32

  1. Remove the release fork and bearing.
  2.  
  3. Remove the back-up light switch.
  4.  
  5. Remove the shift lever retainer and restrictor pins.
  6.  
  7. Remove the clutch housing from the transmission case.
  8.  
  9. Using a torx socket wrench, remove the screw plug from the transfer case adaptor (4WD) or the extension housing (2WD). When the plug is removed, use a magnetic screwdriver to remove the spring and ball.
  10.  
  11. On 4WD models, remove the shift lever housing set bolt and then remove the 10 transfer adaptor-to-transmission mounting bolts. Lightly tap the transfer adaptor with a rubber mallet until the shift lever housing can be removed along with the shift and select levers.
  12.  
  13. On 2WD models, remove the 10 extension housing-to-transmission case mounting bolts and then remove the shift lever housing set bolt. Lightly tap the extension housing with a rubber mallet until the shift lever housing can be removed along with the shift and select levers.
  14.  
  15. Remove the 8 mounting bolts and then tap out the front bearing retainer.
  16.  
  17. Using snapring pliers, remove the 2 bearing snaprings.
  18.  
  19. Use a brass drift and a hammer to tap off the transmission case and then remove the case from the intermediate plate.
  20.  
  21. Remove the magnet from the intermediate plate.
  22.  
  23. Mount the intermediate plate assembly in a vise by installing 2 clutch housing bolts with suitable plate washers and nuts.
  24.  


CAUTION
Install the plate washers in the reverse direction of normal use. Increase or decrease the amount of washers so that the bolt tips and nut tip surfaces are in alignment.

  1. With a torx socket wrench, remove the 4 plugs on the side of the intermediate plate. Remove the springs and balls with a magnetic screwdriver.
  2.  
  3. Remove the set bolts from the shift fork shafts.
  4.  
  5. Remove the 3 snaprings from the ends of the shift fork shafts and then drive out the 2 pins using a punch.
  6.  
  7. Slide the No. 5 shift fork shaft from the intermediate plate.
  8.  
  9. Pull the No. 2 fork shaft from the plate and then remove the No. 2 shift fork itself. Use a magnet to remove the interlock pins from the shaft hole and intermediate plate.
  10.  
  11. Pull the No. 1 fork shaft from the plate. Use a magnet to remove the interlock pins from the shaft hole and intermediate plate.
  12.  
  13. Pull the No. 3 fork shaft from the plate and then remove the No. 1 shift fork. Use a magnet to remove the interlock pins and locking ball from the shaft hole and intermediate plate.
  14.  
  15. Pull the No. 4 fork shaft from the plate and then remove the reverse shift head and locking ball. Remove the No. 3 shift fork.
  16.  
  17. Remove the reverse shift arm from the shift arm bracket.
  18.  
  19. Remove the 2 bolts and lift out the shift arm bracket.
  20.  
  21. Use a 2-armed puller to remove the sleeve from the output shaft.
  22.  
  23. Tap out the snapring at the output shaft rear bearing and then remove the bearing.
  24.  
  25. Remove the spacer.
  26.  
  27. Check the thrust clearance at the counter 5th gear. It should be 0.10-0.35mm.
  28.  
  29. Engage the 5th gear double meshing and loosen the staked nut with a hammer and chisel. Remove the locknut and then disengage the double meshing.
  30.  
  31. Remove the No. 5 gear spline and lift off the counter 5th gear with the No. 3 hub sleeve.
  32.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 31: Exploded view of the R-Series transmission



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 32: Exploded view of the R-Series transmission

  1. Remove the thrust washer and ball.
  2.  
  3. Remove the rear bearing retainer.
  4.  
  5. Remove the reverse idler gear and shaft toward the rear of the intermediate plate.
  6.  
  7. Remove the bearing snapring.
  8.  
  9. Remove the output shaft, counter gear and input shaft from the intermediate plate as a unit. Pull on the counter gear while tapping the intermediate plate with a rubber mallet at the same time. Remove the input shaft and needle roller bearing from the output shaft.
  10.  
  11. Remove the counter rear bearing from the intermediate plate.
  12.  
  13. Check the thrust clearance of each gear. 1st should be 0.10-0.45mm. 2nd and 3rd should be 0.10-0.25mm.
  14.  
  15. Press the 5th gear, center bearing, thrust washer and 1st gear off the shaft as an assembly. Remove the synchronizer ring, straight pin and needle roller bearing. Remove the spacer.
  16.  
  17. Tap out the snapring and then press off the No. 1 hub sleeve, synchronizer ring and 2nd gear. Remove the needle roller bearing.
  18.  
  19. Tap out the snapring and then press off the No. 2 hub sleeve, synchronizer ring and 3rd gear. Remove the needle roller bearing.
  20.  

To assemble:
  1. Install the clutch hub and shifting keys onto the hub sleeve. Position the shifting key springs under the keys.
  2.  


CAUTION
Make sure that the key spring end gaps are not aligned.

  1. Coat the shaft and needle roller bearing with gear oil. Place the synchronizer ring on the gear so that the ring slots align with the shifting keys. Install the needle roller bearing in the 3rd gear and then press the 3rd gear and the No. 2 hub sleeve onto the shaft.
  2.  
  3. Install a snapring that will allow minimal axial play.
  4.  
  5. Check the 3rd gear thrust clearance. It should be 0.10-0.25mm.
  6.  
  7. Coat the shaft and needle roller bearing with gear oil. Place the synchronizer ring on the gear so that the ring slots align with the shifting keys. Install the needle roller bearing in the 2nd gear and then press the 2nd gear and the No. 1 hub sleeve onto the shaft.
  8.  
  9. Install a snapring that will allow minimal axial play.
  10.  
  11. Install the spacer on the output shaft. Coat the needle roller bearing with gear oil and assemble the 1st gear, synchronizer ring and needle roller bearing. Install the entire assembly on the output shaft so that the synchronizer ring slots are in alignment with the shifting keys.
  12.  
  13. Install the 1st gear thrust washer onto the output shaft so that the straight pin is in alignment with the 1st gear thrust washer.
  14.  
  15. Position the center bearing on the output shaft so that the snapring groove in the outer race is toward the rear and then press it onto the shaft.
  16.  
  17. Check the thrust clearance on 1st and 2nd gears. 1st gear should be 0.10-0.45mm. 2nd gear should be 0.10-0.25mm.
  18.  
  19. Press the 5th gear onto the shaft.
  20.  
  21. Install the output shaft assembly into the intermediate plate. Press on the shaft assembly while tapping on the plate with a rubber mallet. Install the snapring.
  22.  
  23. Coat the needle roller bearing with gear oil and install in on the input shaft. Install the input shaft to the output shaft making sure that the synchronizer ring slots are in alignment with the shifting keys.
  24.  
  25. While holding the counter gear in the intermediate plate, press the counter rear bearing in with a rubber mallet.
  26.  
  27. Install the reverse shift arm bracket and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  28.  
  29. Install the reverse shift arm onto the pivot in the bracket.
  30.  
  31. Align the reverse shift arm shoe with the reverse idler gear groove and insert the reverse idler gear shaft into the intermediate plate.
  32.  
  33. Position the rear bearing retainer so it aligns with the groove in the idler gear shaft and tighten the mounting bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  34.  
  35. Insert the shifting keys and the No. 3 hub sleeve onto the counter 5th gear. Be sure to position the shifting key springs under the shifting keys so that their end gaps are not aligned.
  36.  
  37. Install the ball and thrust washer.
  38.  
  39. Coat the needle roller bearings with gear oil and then install them along with the counter 5th gear and the No. 3 hub sleeve.
  40.  
  41. Install the synchronizer ring on the No. 5 gear spline. Press the gear spline onto the shaft so that the synchronizer ring slots align with the shifting keys.
  42.  

When installing the No. 5 gear spline. support the counter gear in front with a 3-5 lb. hammer.

  1. Engage the gear double meshing and install the locknut. Tighten it to 94 ft. lbs. (127 Nm). Stake the locknut with a chisel and then disengage the double meshing.
  2.  
  3. Check that the thrust clearance on the counter 5th gear is 0.10-0.35mm.
  4.  
  5. Install the spacer.
  6.  
  7. Press the rear bearing onto the output shaft. Install a new snapring so it allows minimal axial play.
  8.  
  9. Tap the sleeve onto the output shaft.
  10.  
  11. Position the No. 3 shift fork in the groove of the No. 3 hub sleeve. Install the No. 4 shift fork shaft to the No. 3 shift fork. Reverse the shift head and shift fork through the intermediate plate.
  12.  
  13. Install the locking ball into the intermediate plate. Install the interlocking pin through the hole in the shaft and then position the No. 1 shift fork into the groove in the No. 1 hub sleeve. Install the No. 3 fork shaft to the reverse shift fork and shift head through the plate.
  14.  
  15. Install the locking ball into the intermediate plate. Install the interlocking pin through the hole in the shaft and then position the No. 1 shift fork shaft to the No. 1 shift fork through the intermediate plate.
  16.  
  17. Install the interlock pin into the intermediate plate. Position the No. 2 shift fork into the groove in the No. 2 hub sleeve and then install the No. 2 fork shaft to the No. 1 and No. 2 shift forks through the intermediate plate.
  18.  
  19. Install the No. 5 shift fork shaft to the reverse shift head through the intermediate plate.
  20.  
  21. Use a pin punch and hammer to drive the 2 slotted spring pins into the reverse shift head and shift fork.
  22.  
  23. Shift the No. 1 shift fork shaft to the 1st speed position and check that the Nos. 2, 3, 4 and 5 shift fork shafts do not move.
  24.  
  25. Install 3 new snaprings to the end of the shift fork shafts.
  26.  
  27. Install the shift fork shaft set bolts and tighten them to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  28.  
  29. Apply liquid sealant to the intermediate plate plug hole threads and then install the 4 locking balls, springs and screw plugs. Tighten the screw plugs to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  30.  
  31. Install the magnet to the intermediate plate.
  32.  
  33. Remove the intermediate plate assembly from the vise and take out the clutch housing screws.
  34.  
  35. Apply sealant to the transmission case and then make sure each bearing outer race, shift fork shaft end and reverse idler gear end are aligned with the case holes before installing the case. A rubber mallet may help persuade the case into position.
  36.  
  37. Install new input shaft bearing and counter gear front bearing snaprings.
  38.  
  39. Apply sealant to the front bearing retainer flange and the mounting bolt threads and then install the front bearing retainer. Tighten the bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
  40.  
  41. On 4WD models, apply sealant to the transfer adaptor and install it to the intermediate plate. Tighten the mounting bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Insert the shift and selector lever into the transfer adaptor. Connect the lever to the fork shaft and put in the shift lever housing. Align the No. 5 shift fork shaft to the transfer adaptor hole and press in the adaptor. Apply sealant to the plug threads and then install the shift lever housing bolt. Tighten it to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm).
  42.  
  43. On 2WD models, apply sealant to the extension housing flange. Insert the shift and selector lever into the extension housing. Connect the lever to the fork shaft and put in the shift lever housing. Align the No. 5 shift fork shaft to the extension housing hole and press in the housing. Install the housing mounting bolts and tighten to 27 ft. lbs. Install the shift lever housing bolt and tighten it to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm).
  44.  
  45. Apply sealant to the plug hole threads, install the locking ball and spring into the housing and tighten the plug to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
  46.  
  47. Check that the input and output shafts rotate smoothly. Check that shifting is smooth in all positions.
  48.  
  49. Install the black restrict pin on the reverse/5th gear side. Install another pin and tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  50.  
  51. Install the clutch housing and tighten the mounting bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  52.  
  53. Install the shift lever retainer with a new gasket. Use sealant on the bolts and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  54.  
  55. Install the back-up light switch. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm) on models with 4 cylinder engines and 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) on models with the V6.
  56.  
  57. Install the speedometer driven gear.
  58.  
  59. Install the release fork and bearing.
  60.  

Land Cruiser

See Figures 33, 34, 35 and 36

3 SPEED
  1. Remove the transfer case shift lever guide, cotter pin, and lockbolt. Remove the shift lever and linkage; do not lose the link lever shoe.
  2.  
  3. Remove the back-up light switch and gasket from the transmission cover.
  4.  
  5. Remove the transfer case cover, complete with gasket. Remove the power take-off cover and gasket.
  6.  
  7. Straighten out the tabs on the input shaft nut lockwasher and remove the nut. Slide the spacer off.
  8.  

Lock the power take-off drive gear with a wooden block or brass drift to keep the shaft from turning while the nut is being removed.

  1. Loosen the five bolts which secure the transfer case to the transmission case and separate the cases with a puller. Hold the power take-off drive gear, spacer, and input gear, so that they don't drop out.
  2.  
  3. Unfasten the bolt and remove the gear selector outer lever.
  4.  
  5. Unfasten the bolts and remove the transmission case cover, complete with gasket.
  6.  
  7. Loosen the bolts and remove the front bearing retainer, with gasket, from the transmission case.
  8.  
  9. Drive the shift fork shaft out toward the front of the case with a hammer and a brass drift. Use care not to lose the fork balls, springs and pin.
  10.  
  11. Withdraw the 1st/reverse shift fork and the 2nd/3rd shift fork from the transmission case. Remove the lockballs and springs.
  12.  
  13. Drive the countershaft rearward with a brass drift. Remove the countershaft Woodruff key.
  14.  

The countergear should remain in the case.

  1. Remove the input shaft and bearing with a puller. Install the puller on the front of the input shaft.
  2.  
  3. Use a hammer and a brass drift to drive the output shaft rearward until the output shaft bearing clears the case. Do not pound on the output shaft; tap it lightly.
  4.  
  5. Separate the bearing from the output shaft with a puller.
  6.  
  7. Remove the output shaft and the related components from the transmission case.
  8.  
  9. Use a snapring expander to remove the snapring from the front of the output shaft. Slide the synchronizer clutch hub, sleeve, synchronizer ring, 2nd gear, and the 1st/reverse gearset off of the shaft.
  10.  
  11. Remove the countershaft drive gear, spacer, roller bearing, and washers. Note the placement of the gear thrust washers. Use care not to lose the rollers.
  12.  
  13. Drive the reverse idler gear shaft rearward and remove its Woodruff key.
  14.  
  15. Remove the reverse idler gear, rollers and thrust washers from the case.
  16.  
  17. Gear Backlash:

    Input shaft gear-to-countershaft drive gear: 0.10mm
     
    2nd-to-countergear: 0.10mm
     
    1st/reverse gear-to-countergear: 0.20mm
     
    Countergear-to-reverse idler gear: 0.20mm
     
    Reverse gear-to-reverse idler gear: 0.20
     
    Synchronizer ring-to-gear: 1.0mm
     

  18.  

To assemble:

Use new gaskets, oil seals, and dust seals. Coat the gaskets with sealer.

  1. Apply a light coating of gear oil to all components, prior to assembly.
  2.  
  3. Grease the bore of the reverse idler gear. Insert the bearing rollers and washer in the bore.
  4.  
  5. Install the reverse idler gear and the two thrust washers into the case. Drive the reverse idler gear shaft through the case, by gently tapping it into place from behind. Lock the shaft into place with the woodruff key.
  6.  
  7. Grease the bore of the countershaft drive gear and fit its spacer. Install the rollers in the bore and hold them in place with a heavy coating of grease. Install the washers in the bore.
  8.  
  9. Place the countershaft drive gear, thrust washer, and side thrust washers in the case.
  10.  
  11. If the bearing was removed from the input shaft, press it into place on the shaft.
  12.  
  13. Select a snapring that will give the input shaft minimum end-play, and install it on the shaft.
  14.  
  15. Grease bore of the input shaft, install the rollers, and then fit the snapring.
  16.  
  17. Carefully drive the input shaft assembly and bearing into the transmission case.
  18.  
  19. Lift the countershaft drive gear up and install the countershaft from the rear of the case. Secure the countershaft with its woodruff key.
  20.  
  21. Use a feeler gauge to measure the countershaft thrust clearance; it should be 0.050-0.20mm. Select a countergear side thrust washer of the proper size to obtain the specified thrust clearance.
  22.  
  23. Install the two synchronizer shifting key springs into the clutch hub, so that the open ends are 120° apart. Place the three shifting keys into the clutch hub key slots.
  24.  
  25. Slide the clutch hub sleeve into the clutch hub.
  26.  
  27. Fit 2nd gear, its synchronizer ring, and the synchronizer assembly on the output shaft. Check 2nd gear thrust clearance with a feeler gauge. It should be 0.076-0.23mm.
  28.  
  29. Working from the rear, slide the 1st/reverse gearset on the output shaft.
  30.  
  31. Install the output shaft assembly in the transmission case. Using a suitable brass drift, install the rear bearing over the output shaft and into the case.
  32.  
  33. Install both shift forks and retain them with their balls and lockpins.
  34.  
  35. Depress the shift fork lockballs with a screwdriver, then drive the shift fork shaft through the case, and into shift forks.
  36.  
  37. Install a new O-ring on the shift fork shaft and lock it in place with its pin.
  38.  
  39. Coat the front bearing retainer with liquid sealer and install the bearing retainer over it.
  40.  
  41. Install a suitable size pipe over the transmission output shaft. Place the transfer case input gear, power take-off drive gear, and the spacers over the pipe, which should be projecting through the transfer case.
  42.  
  43. Coat a new gasket with liquid sealer and install.
  44.  
  45. Install the transfer case on the transmission case. Be sure to install the two short bolts from the inside of the transfer case.
  46.  
  47. Install the bearing over the end of the transmission output shaft and into the transfer case with a drift.
  48.  
  49. Install the transfer case input shaft spacer.
  50.  
  51. Install the transfer case cover over its gasket.
  52.  
  53. Coat the gasket with liquid sealer and install the power take-off cover.
  54.  
  55. Install the back-up light switch and gasket.
  56.  
  57. Install the transfer front drive fork and its gasket on the transfer case extension housing.
  58.  

4 SPEED
  1. Remove the transfer case shift lever guide, cotter pin, and lockbolt. Remove the shift lever and linkage, do not lose the link lever shoe.
  2.  
  3. Remove the back-up light switch and gasket from the transmission cover.
  4.  
  5. Remove the transfer case cover, complete with gasket. Remove the power take-off cover and gasket.
  6.  
  7. Straighten out the tabs on the input shaft nut lockwasher and remove the nut. Slide the spacer off.
  8.  

Lock the power take-off drive gear with a wooden block or brass drift to keep the shaft from turning while the nut is being removed.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 33: Exploded view of the transmission-Land Cruiser



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 34: Exploded view of the transmission-Land Cruiser



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 35: Exploded view of the transmission-Land Cruiser



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 36: Exploded view of the transmission-Land Cruiser

  1. Loosen the five bolts which secure the transfer case to the transmission case and separate the cases with a puller. Hold the power take-off drive gear, spacer, and input gear, so that they don't drop out.
  2.  
  3. Remove the transfer case input shaft gear stop from the transmission rear bearing retainer.
  4.  
  5. Remove the rear bearing retainer and gasket.
  6.  
  7. Remove the front bearing retainer and gasket.
  8.  
  9. Remove the input shaft and front bearing from the case with a puller.
  10.  

Prior to removing the input shaft, align the slot in the input shaft with the countershaft drive gear.

  1. Remove the synchronizer ring.
  2.  
  3. Use an expander to remove the snapring on the output shaft rear bearing. Remove the bearing with a puller.
  4.  
  5. Withdraw the output shaft and gearset from the transmission case.
  6.  
  7. Straighten out the tabs on the countershaft front bearing retainer and remove the bolts; then remove the retainer and lockwasher.
  8.  
  9. Remove the front countershaft bearing. Remove the bearing spacer. Remove the rear countershaft bearing.
  10.  
  11. Remove the countershaft.
  12.  
  13. Remove the reverse shift arm pivot and shift arm.
  14.  
  15. Install a puller on the reverse idler shaft, and pull the gear shaft and key from the transmission case. Remove the reverse idler gear from the case.
  16.  
  17. Slide the 1st gear and its thrust washer off the back end of the output shaft.
  18.  
  19. Remove the snapring from the front of the output shaft; then remove the clutch hub, sleeve, synchronizer ring, and 3rd gear from the shaft.
  20.  
  21. Remove the snapring and slide 2nd gear and thrust washer off the shaft.
  22.  
  23. Slide the reverse gear synchronizer ring off the output shaft.
  24.  
  25. Press the countershaft drive gear off of the countershaft. Remove the woodruff key and spacer from the shaft.
  26.  
  27. Repeat Step 22 for the 3rd gear and woodruff key.
  28.  
  29. Move the shift forks into neutral. Drive the slotted spring pin out of the 3rd/4th shift fork with a long drift.
  30.  
  31. Without using excessive force, drive the 3rd/4th shift fork shaft and plug forward with a brass drift. Remove the shift fork, lockball, and spring.
  32.  
  33. Drive the spring pins out of the reverse shift fork and boss with a long pin punch.
  34.  
  35. Remove the plug from the rear of the transmission case. Drive the 1st/2nd shift fork shaft forward with a brass drift. Remove the shift fork, boss, lockball, and spring.
  36.  
  37. Drive the spring pins out of the reverse shift fork and boss. Loosen and remove the tapered screw plugs from the transmission cover; then push the interlock rollers out with a long drift.
  38.  
  39. Remove the cotter pin, spring, and lockball from the shift fork boss.
  40.  
  41. Remove the C-washer, then withdraw the reverse return spring and plunger from the boss.
  42.  
  43. Gear Backlash:
    1. Input gear-to-countershaft drivegear: 0.10mm
    2.  
    3. 3rd gear-to-countershaft gear: 0.10mm
    4.  
    5. 2nd gear-to-countershaft gear: 0.10mm
    6.  
    7. 1st gear-to-countershaft gear: 0.10mm
    8.  
    9. Reverse gear-to-reverse idler gear: 0.13mm
    10.  

  44.  

To assemble:
  1. Apply a light coating of gear oil to all components, prior to assembly.
  2.  
  3. Place the reverse idler gear in the case with its fork groove facing forward.
  4.  
  5. Align the Woodruff key, groove, and slot. Carefully drive the reverse idler shaft through the holes in the case, and into the gear.
  6.  

If you install new bushings in the idler gear, be sure that their openings are at least 90° apart.

  1. Adjust the reverse idler gear position by turning the shaft arm pivot to obtain a distance of 114mm between the outer rear of the transmission case and the reverse idler gear. Move the gear to neutral, the distance between the front end of the gear and outer rear of the transmission case should now be 69mm. Adjust by rotating the shift arm pivot.
  2.  
  3. Install the Woodruff key into the groove of the countershaft and align its keyway with the countershaft 3rd gear. Place the gear on the shaft with the long hub facing forward.
  4.  
  5. Slide the spacer on the countershaft and press its drivegear on, in a similar manner to 3rd gear, with its long hub facing rearward.
  6.  
  7. Place the countershaft assembly into the transmission case and install the countershaft rear bearing with a press. Install the snapring over the end of the countershaft.
  8.  
  9. Install the front bearing spacer, protruded end forward, on the countershaft. Press the front bearing on, until its snapring registers firmly against the transmission case.
  10.  


CAUTION
Apply pressure to the outer bearing race only, to prevent damage to the bearing.

  1. Place the bearing retainer and lockwasher on the front of the countershaft.
  2.  
  3. Slide 2nd gear on the output shaft so that its synchronizer outer ring faces rearward. Select a snapring so that 2nd gear has a thrust clearance of 0.10-0.25mm.
  4.  
  5. Slide 3rd gear on the output shaft, so that its synchronizer cone faces forward.
  6.  
  7. Install the two synchronizer shifting key springs into the clutch hub, so that the open ends are 120° apart. Place the three shifting keys into the clutch hub key slots.
  8.  
  9. Slide the clutch hub sleeve into the clutch hub.
  10.  
  11. Install the synchronizer ring and slide the synchronizer assembly over the output shaft. The grooves should face the rear.
  12.  
  13. Select a snapring to provide 0.20mm thrust clearance for the clutch hub.
  14.  
  15. Slide the reverse gear synchronizer ring over the output shaft. Check the ring for smooth movement.
  16.  
  17. Slide 1st gear on the output shaft.
  18.  
  19. Place the output shaft assembly in the transmission case.
  20.  
  21. Fit the 1st gear thrust washer on the output shaft. Align the slot in the thrust washer with the output shaft pin.
  22.  
  23. Install the output shaft rear bearing with a press. Be sure to apply pressure on the bearing outer race only. Install the rear bearing and its gasket.
  24.  
  25. Press-fit the bearing on the input shaft. Grease the bearing rollers and install all 18 in the input shaft.
  26.  
  27. Place the input shaft in the transmission case, so that the synchronizer ring keyways align with the shift keys. Install the output shaft bearing spacer in the output shaft.
  28.  


CAUTION
Be sure the bearing rollers or the spacer do not fall into the transmission case during installation.

  1. Install the input shaft bearing retainer and gasket.
  2.  

Make sure that all shift fork shafts are in neutral during the shift fork shaft assembly steps, below.

  1. Install the spring and return plunger in the reverse shift boss. Secure them with the C-washer. Install the ball and spring then secure them with a cotter pin.
  2.  
  3. Place the reverse shift fork and boss in the transmission cover, its bore, shift fork and into its boss, while depressing the lockball with a screwdriver.
  4.  
  5. Slide the reverse shift fork shaft through the front of the cover. Install the fork lock-spring and ball in the cover.
  6.  
  7. Align the holes and drive the slotted spring pin through the reverse shift fork and boss to secure them to the shaft.
  8.  
  9. Coat the roller with grease and install it into the interlock hole in the cover.
  10.  
  11. Place the 1st/2nd shift boss and fork into the cover. Install the 1st/2nd shift fork shaft and spacer from the front of the cover, after fitting its pin, and while depressing the lockball with a screwdriver.
  12.  
  13. Secure the 1st/2nd shift fork and boss with their slotted spring pins. Install another roller into the hole in the cover.
  14.  
  15. Install the 3rd/4th shift fork lock-spring and ball in the shift fork. Install the shift fork and shaft in the cover and secure them with a slotted spring pin.
  16.  
  17. Check the shift fork assembly for smooth operation. Install the plugs.
  18.  
  19. Install a suitable size pipe over the transmission output shaft. Place the transfer case input gear, power take-off drive gear, and the spacers over the pipe, which should be projecting through the transfer case.
  20.  
  21. Coat a new gasket with liquid sealer and install.
  22.  
  23. Install the transfer case on the transmission case. Be sure to install the two short bolts from the inside of the transfer case.
  24.  
  25. Remove the pipe from the output shaft and transfer case.
  26.  
  27. Install the bearing over the end of the transmission output shaft and into the transfer case with a drift.
  28.  
  29. Install the transfer case input shaft spacer.
  30.  
  31. Install the transfer case cover over its gasket.
  32.  
  33. Coat the gasket with liquid sealer and install the power take-off cover.
  34.  
  35. Install the back-up light switch and gasket.
  36.  
  37. Install the transfer front drive fork and its gasket on the transfer case extension housing.
  38.  

5 SPEED
  1. Remove the clutch housing.
  2.  
  3. Remove the transfer case.
  4.  
  5. Remove the back-up light switch.
  6.  
  7. Remove the screw plug from the case and then remove the 5th locking ball and spring with a magnet.
  8.  
  9. While lightly tapping the transfer adaptor with a rubber mallet, pull up the 5th shift arm and separate the transfer adaptor from the transmission case.
  10.  
  11. Measure the thrust clearance for each gear.

    1st and 2nd gears: 0.175-0.325mm
     
    3rd gear: 0.125-0.275mm
     
    Counter 5th gear: 0.10-0.30mm
     

  12.  

Be sure to write down the actual clearances for use during installation.

  1. Remove the output shaft rear bearing.
  2.  
  3. Remove the spacer.
  4.  
  5. Engage the gear double meshing and unstake the locknut on the counter gear. Remove the locknut and disengage the double meshing.
  6.  
  7. Pull the counter 5th gear assembly out of the counter gear rear end.
  8.  
  9. Remove the straight pin and the counter 5th gear thrust washer.
  10.  
  11. Remove the rear bearing retainer.
  12.  
  13. Remove the 5th gear from the output shaft using SST #09950-00020 and 2 bolts.
  14.  

When removing the 5th gear its a good idea to use steel plates (2mm) as a backing to prevent the case from being damaged by the 2 bolts. The bolts should have a nominal diameter of 12mm, a 1.5 pitch and thread length of at least 80mm.

  1. Remove the snapring and then remove the counter gear shaft rear bearing.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front bearing retainer being careful not to damage the oil seal.
  4.  
  5. Remove the snapring and then remove the counter gear front bearing.
  6.  
  7. Remove the input shaft, bearing and synchronizer ring.
  8.  

Be careful that the input shaft and counter gear do not strike each other. There are 17 needle roller bearings, be careful not to lose them!

  1. Remove the snapring, support the front of the output shaft and remove the center bearing.
  2.  
  3. Stand the transmission case on its front end. Remove the output shaft. Remove the counter gear.
  4.  
  5. Tap the reverse idler gear shaft toward the rear and remove the gear with its woodruff key.
  6.  
  7. Remove the nut, washers, O-ring, pivot arm and the reverse shift arm.
  8.  
  9. Remove the 1st gear thrust washer and straight pin.
  10.  
  11. Remove the 1st gear along with the needle roller bearing.
  12.  
  13. Remove the No. 1 synchronizer ring assembly.
  14.  
  15. Remove the snapring and then press the No. 2 hub sleeve assembly, synchronizer ring, 3rd gear, 3rd gear bushing, needle roller bearing and 2nd gear off the shaft.
  16.  
  17. Remove the locking ball from the shaft. Use a magnet.
  18.  
  19. Remove the bolt and lock plate and then remove the 5th shift arm and shaft from the transfer adaptor.
  20.  
  21. Remove the 5th shift fork from the shaft by driving out the slotted pin with a pin punch and hammer.
  22.  

To assemble:
  1. Coat the output shaft with gear oil. Install the needle roller bearing and 2nd gear to the shaft.
  2.  
  3. Install the locking ball into the output shaft. Install the bushing on the output shaft so that the notch in the bushing is aligned with the locking ball. Coat the bushing with gear oil and install 3rd gear on the bushing.
  4.  
  5. Install the clutch hub and shifting keys to the hub sleeve. Install the shifting key springs under the keys so their end gaps are not in line.
  6.  
  7. Press the No. 2 hub sleeve onto the shaft. Hold the 3rd gear to prevent the bushing from falling out and be sure that the shifting keys align with the synchronizer ring slots.
  8.  
  9. Select a snapring that will allow minimal axial play and install it on the shaft.
  10.  
  11. Check the 2nd and 3rd gear thrust clearance as detailed previously.
  12.  
  13. Hook the synchronizer ring holder ends to the thrust piece. Make sure the ring holder ends are not facing in the same direction and are parallel, not intersecting.
  14.  
  15. Install the No. 1 synchronizer ring on the shaft. Coat the needle roller bearing with gear oil and then install it along with the 1st gear. Apply MP grease to the straight pin and 1st gear thrust washer. Install the washer on the shaft so the straight pin is in alignment with it.
  16.  
  17. Install the reverse shift arm so its pivot is positioned as shown in the illustration. Install the O-ring, plate washer, spring washer and nut.
  18.  
  19. Align the groove in the reverse idler gear with the reverse shift arm shoe. Install the idler gear shaft (with the woodruff key) through the shaft.
  20.  
  21. Stand the transmission case on end and slide the output shaft into the case. Don't damage the ends of the shaft!
  22.  
  23. Slide the counter gear into the case. Don't damage the ends of the shaft!
  24.  
  25. Install a new snapring onto the center bearing, the groove in the 1st gear thrust washer should be aligned with the straight pin. Press in the bearing until it contacts the washer.
  26.  
  27. Coat the inner surface of the 5th gear with grease and then press it onto the shaft.
  28.  
  29. Install a new snapring into the input shaft bearing. Install all 17 needle roller bearings into the shaft and coat them with grease. Align the synchronizer ring slots with the shifting keys and drive in the input shaft with a mallet. Make sure the counter gear does not interfere with the input shaft.
  30.  
  31. Turn over the transmission case and align the counter gear center. Install the front bearing thrust collar onto the counter gear and then press in the bearing. Install a new snapring into the bearing outer race. Select another snapring that will allow minimal axial play and install it in the counter gear front end.
  32.  
  33. Install a snapring to the counter gear rear bearing outer race and then press in the bearing.
  34.  
  35. Install the rear bearing retainer and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  36.  
  37. Install the straight pin onto the counter shaft. Install the thrust washer so the slot is aligned with the straight pin.
  38.  
  39. Install the No. 3 hub sleeve and the shifting keys to the counter 5th gear. Install the shifting key springs under the keys so their ends are not lined up.
  40.  
  41. Coat the needle roller bearing with grease and press it into the counter gear.
  42.  
  43. Position the 5th shift fork in the shaft so that the pin holes line up and press in the slotted spring pin with a pin punch and hammer.
  44.  
  45. Install the 5th shift fork and shaft onto the No. 3 hub sleeve. Install the 5th gear assembly with the shift fork.
  46.  
  47. Position the synchronizer ring on the rear of the counter 5th gear so the slots in the ring align with the shifting keys. Press the No. 5 gear spline into the counter gear far enough so the locknut can be installed.
  48.  
  49. Engage the gear double meshing. install a new locknut and tighten it to 94 ft. lbs. (127 Nm). Disengage the gear double meshing and check the counter 5th gear thrust clearance. Stake the locknut.
  50.  
  51. Install the front bearing retainer with a new gasket. Coat the mounting bolts with sealant and tighten them to 12 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
  52.  
  53. Install the spacer on the output shaft.
  54.  
  55. Press the rear bearing onto the output shaft.
  56.  
  57. Check the 1st gear thrust clearance.
  58.  
  59. Install the 5th shift arm shaft through the transfer adaptor and then install the 5th shift arm. Install the bolt with a lock washer and tighten it to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Stake the washer.
  60.  
  61. Position a new transfer adaptor gasket, align the end of the 5th shift arm and 5th shift fork with the holes in the adaptor and install the adaptor. Install the locking ball and spring, coat the screw plug with sealant and tighten it to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  62.  
  63. Install the dust boot and case cover with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
  64.  
  65. Install the back-up light switch.
  66.  
  67. Install the transfer case.
  68.  
  69. Install the clutch housing and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
  70.  
  71. Position the adjustment mark on the reverse shift arm pivot toward the front, temporarily install the shift lever, and if the lever is catching on something in the shifting direction, move the position of the alignment mark 60°. Tighten the nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  72.  

 
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