Toyota Pick-ups, Land Cruiser, and 4 Runner 1997-00

Safety Precautions

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For a number of reasons, exhaust system work can be the most dangerous type of work you can do on your car. Always observe the following precautions:



Support the car extra securely. Not only will you often be working directly under it, but you'll frequently be using a lot of force, such as heavy hammer blows, to dislodge rusted parts. This can cause a vehicle that's improperly supported to shift and possibly fall.
 
Wear goggles. Exhaust system parts are always rusty. Metal chips can be dislodged, even when you're only turning rusted bolts. Attempting to pry pipes apart with a chisel makes the chips fly even more frequently.
 
If you're using a cutting torch, keep it a great distance from either the fuel tank or lines. Stop what you're doing and feel the temperature of the fuel pipes on the tank frequently. Even slight heat can expand and/or vaporize fuel, resulting in accumulated vapor (or even a liquid leak) near your torch.
 
Watch where your hammer blows fall and make sure you hit squarely. You could easily tap a brake or fuel line when you hit an exhaust system part with a glancing blow. Inspect all lines and hoses in the area where you've been working.
 


CAUTION
Be very careful when working on or near the catalytic converter. External temperatures can reach 1,500° F (816° C) and more, causing severe burns. Removal or installation should be performed only on a cold exhaust system.

A number of special exhaust system tools can be rented from auto supply houses or local stores that rent special equipment. A common one is a tail pipe expander, designed to enable you to join pipes of identical diameter.

The exhaust system of Toyota trucks consists of several pieces. At the front of a the first section of pipe connects the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter. Some vehicles may use a crossover or Y-pipe below the engine to connect the two exhaust manifold ports. The 2UZ-FE V8 engine uses two head pipes, one for each manifold, and each head pipe has its own catalytic converter.

The catalytic converter is a sealed, non-serviceable unit that can be easily unbolted from the system and replaced if necessary.

The exhaust system is attached to the body by several hooks and flexible rubber hangers; these hangers absorb exhaust vibrations and isolate the system from the body of the car. A series of metal heat shields runs along the exhaust piping, protecting the underbody from excess heat.

When inspecting or replacing exhaust system parts, make sure there is adequate clearance from all points on the body to avoid possible overheating of the floorpan. Check the complete system for broken damaged, missing or poorly positioned parts. Rattles and vibrations in the exhaust system are usually caused by misalignment of parts. When aligning the system, leave all the nuts and bolts loose until everything is in its proper place, and then tighten the hardware working from the front to the rear. Remember that what appears to be proper clearance during repair may change as the truck moves down the road. The motion of the engine, body and suspension must be considered when replacing parts.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION




CAUTION
Do NOT perform exhaust repairs with the engine or exhaust hot. Allow the system to cool completely before attempting any work. Exhaust systems are noted for sharp edges, flaking metal and rusted bolts. Gloves and eye protection are required. A healthy supply of penetrating oil and rags is highly recommended.

Catalytic Converter
EXCEPT LAND CRUISER WITH 1FZ-FE ENGINE
  1. Raise and support the truck on safety stands.
  2.  
  3. Remove the heat shield(s).
  4.  
  5. Some models have rubber O-ring supports; that may be in the way of removal, detach them, ensuring there is another support for the converter once removed.
  6.  
  7. On some models you will need to remove the oxygen sensor. Unbolt the oxygen sensor and remove it. Protect the tip of the sensor from damage and do not place it on or near any petroleum-based solvents. This includes putting it on a greasy rag.
  8.  
  9. Remove the bolts at the front and rear of the converter.
  10.  

Always support the pipe running to the manifold, either by the normal clamps/hangers or by using string, stiff wire, etc. If left loose, the pipe can develop enough leverage to crack the manifold.

  1. Remove the converter and gaskets.
  2.  

To install:

  1. Check the rubber supports that hang the exhaust, they have a tendency to stretch and crack with age, replace if necessary.
  2.  
  3. Using new gaskets, attach the converter to the exhaust pipes. For all engines except the 5VZ-FE, tighten the bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). On the 5VZ-FE, tighten the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
  4.  

ALWAYS use a new gasket at each pipe joint whenever the joint is disassembled. Use new nuts and bolts to hold the joint properly. These two low-cost items will serve to prevent future leaks as the system ages.

  1. On models with the oxygen sensor in the catalyst, tighten the nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Don't forget to connect the wire harness.
  2.  

LAND CRUISER WITH 1FZ-FE ENGINE
  1. The 1FZ-FE Land Cruiser has a front and rear catalyst.
    1. Unbolt and remove the oxygen sensor.
    2.  
    3. Loosen the front exhaust pipe at the manifold and the rear bolts to the No. 2 catalyst.
    4.  
    5. Support the rear catalyst if it is not to be removed, then remove the mounting bolts for the front pipe and gaskets, then lower.
    6.  

  2.  

To install:

  1. On the 1FZ-FE, attach the front catalyst to the manifold and rear catalyst.
    1. Keeping the system supported, hand tighten the mounting nuts.
    2.  
    3. Attach the oxygen sensor to the pipe, tighten to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
    4.  
    5. Tighten the rear catalyst mounting bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) and the front pipe-to-converter to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm).
    6.  

  2.  

Muffler and/or Tail Pipe

The muffler and tail pipe on trucks and 4Runner is one piece and should be replaced as a unit. On the Land Cruiser, the tailpipe can be unbolted from the muffler. Both mufflers include the lead-in pipe to the muffler. All Toyota exhaust components bolt together with gaskets at the joints; no welding is involved. To remove the muffler and/or tailpipe:

  1. Elevate and firmly support the rear of the vehicle.
  2.  
  3. On some models you will need to remove the oxygen sensor. Unbolt the oxygen sensor and remove it. Protect the tip of the sensor from damage and do NOT place it on or near any petroleum-based solvents. This includes putting it on a greasy rag.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the nuts holding the muffler and/or tailpipe to the adjacent pipes.
  6.  
  7. Remove or disconnect the clamps and supports holding the pipe at either end. Leave the supports closest to the center in place until last.
  8.  
  9. Remove the last supports or hangers and lower the unit to the ground. At NO TIME should the muffler be allowed to hang partially supported; the leverage can break the next component in line.
  10.  

If the muffler or tailpipe is being replaced due to rust or corrosion, adjacent pipes should be checked for the same condition. The pieces tend to age at about the same rate.

To install:

  1. Check the rubber supports that hang the exhaust, they have a tendency to stretch and crack with age, replace if necessary.
  2.  
  3. Lift the new unit into place and loosely attach the hangers or supports to hold it in place. Allow some play to adjust the muffler.
  4.  
  5. Using new gaskets, connect each end to the adjoining pipe. Tighten the joint bolts and nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
  6.  

ALWAYS use a new gasket at each pipe joint whenever the joint is disassembled. Use new nuts and bolts to hold the joint properly. These two low-cost items will serve to prevent future leaks as the system ages.

  1. Tighten the supports and hangers. Make certain the rubber hangers are securely attached to their mounts.
  2.  

Complete System

If the entire exhaust system is to be replaced, it is much easier to remove the system as a unit than remove each individual piece. Disconnect the first pipe at the manifold joint and work towards the rear removing brackets and hangers as you go. Separate the rear pipe at the catalytic converter. Remove any retaining brackets and O-rings from the center of exhaust system and back. Then slide the rear section of the exhaust system out from the back the truck. When removed from the vehicle, then you can detach the catalyst from the system; this is usually the one good part. It stays hot enough in normal operation to dry off rust-inducing moisture.

When installing the new assembly, suspend it from the flexible hangers first, then attach the fixed (solid) brackets. Check the clearance to the body and suspension and install the manifold joint bolts, tightening them correctly.



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Fig. View of a typical Toyota rubber exhaust hanger



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Fig. An exhaust hanger tool like this one makes removal and installation a breeze



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Fig. Once loose, pull the exhaust hanger free from the exhaust



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Fig. Thoroughly check the rubber exhaust hanger for cracks and replace if necessary



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Fig. Exhaust system arrangementLand Cruiser with 1FZ-FE engine



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Fig. Exhaust system arrangement4WD Tacoma with 3RZ-FE engine



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Fig. Exhaust system arrangement2WD Tacoma with 2RZ-FE engine



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Fig. Exhaust system arrangement2WD Tacoma with 5VZ-FE engine



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Fig. Exhaust system arrangement4WD Tacoma with 5VZ-FE engine



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Fig. Exhaust system arrangement4WD Tacoma with 3RZ-FE engine



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Fig. Exhaust system arrangementTundra with 2UZ-FE engine

 
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