See Figure 1
- Inspect the lines and hoses in a well lit area. Use a small mirror to allow you to see concealed parts of the hose or line. Check the entire length and circumference of each line or hose.
- Look for any sign of wear, deformation, corrosion, cracking, bends, swelling or thread damage.
- The slightest sign of leakage requires immediate attention.
- Check all clamps for tightness, then check that all lines and hoses have sufficient clearance from moving parts and heat sources.
- Check that any lines passing through grommets are routed through the center of the grommet and are not forced against the side of the hole. Relieve any excess tension.
- Some metal lines may contain spring-like coils. These coils absorb vibration and prevent the line from cracking under strain. Do not attempt to straighten the coils or change their diameter.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 2 and 3
- Elevate and safely support the vehicle.
- Remove the wheel.
- Clean all dirt from the hose junctions.
- Place a catch pan under the hose area.
- Using 2 wrenches (one should be line or flare nut wrench), disconnect the flexible hose from the steel brake line at the strut assembly.
- If equipped with disc brakes, disconnect the brake hose union bolt at the brake caliper. If equipped with drum brakes, disconnect the hose from the steel pipe running to the wheel cylinder.
- Remove the hose retaining clips and remove the hose from the vehicle.
- If the system is to remain disconnected for more than the time it takes to swap hoses, tape or plug the line and caliper to prevent dirt and moisture from entering.
- Install the new brake hose into the retaining clips.
- Connect the hose to the caliper (disc brakes) and tighten the union bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) or connect the hose to the short line running into the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) and tighten the fitting to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
- Connect the steel brake line to the hose at the strut. Start the threads by hand and make sure the joint is properly threaded before tightening. Tighten the fitting to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
- Install the wheel. Bleed the brake system. Refer to the necessary service procedures.
- Lower the car to the ground.
BRAKE PIPE FLARING
Flaring steel lines is a skill which needs to be practiced before it should be done on a line which is to be used on a vehicle. A special flaring kit with double flaring adapters is required. It is essential that the flare is formed evenly to prevent any leaks when the brake system is under pressure. Only steel lines, not copper lines, should be used. It is also mandatory that the flare be a double flare. With the supply of parts available today, a pre-flared steel brake line should be available to fit your needs. Due to the high pressures in the brake system and the serious injuries that could occur if the flare should fail, it is strongly advised that pre-flared lines should be installed when repairing the braking system. If a line were to leak brake fluid due to a defective flare, and the leak were to go undetected, brake failure would result.
- Determine the length of pipe needed. Allow 1 / 8 in. (3.2 mm) for each flare. Cut using an appropriate tool.
- Square the end of the tube with a file and chamfer the edges. Remove any burrs.
- Install the required fittings on the pipe.
- Install the flaring tool into a vice and install the handle into the operating cam.
- Loosen the die clamp screw and rotate the locking plate to expose the die carrier.
- Select the required die set and install in the carrier.
- Insert the prepared line through the rear of the die and push forward until the line end is flush with the die face.
- Make sure the rear of both halves of the die are resting against the hexagon die stops. Then rotate the locking plate to the fully closed position and clamp the die firmly by tightening the clamp screw.
- Rotate the punch turret until the appropriate size points towards the open end of the line to be flared.
- Pull the operating handle against the line resistance in order to create the flare, then return the handle to the original position.
- Release the clamp screw and rotate the locking plate to the open position.
- Remove the die set and the line then separate by gently tapping both halves on the bench. Inspect the flare for proper size and shape.