See Figures 1 through 7REPLACEMENT
Most models have fuses found in two locations. One fuse box is located inside the car, just under the extreme left side of the dashboard. This fuse box generally contains the fuses for the body and electrical circuits such as the wipers, rear defogger, ignition, cigarette lighter, etc. In addition, various relays and circuit breakers for accessories are also mounted on or around this fuse box.
The second fuse block is found under the hood usually on the forward part of the left wheelhouse. Some models use a combination fuse block and relay board while other models have an additional relay board next to the fuse box. The fuses and relays generally control the engine and major electrical systems on the car, such as headlights (separate fuses for left and right), air conditioning, horns, fuel injection, ECM, and fans.
Each fuse location is labeled on the fuse block identifying its primary circuit, but designations such as "Engine'', "CDS Fan'' or "ECU-B'' may not tell you what you need to know. A fuse can control more than one circuit, so check related fuses. For example, on some vehicles, you'll find the cruise control drawing its power through the fuse labeled "'ECM-IG''. This sharing of fuses is necessary to conserve space and wiring.
The individual fuses are made of plastic and connect into the fusebox with two small blades, similar to a household wall plug. Removing the fuse with the fingers can be difficult; there isn't a lot to grab onto. For this reason, the fuse box contains a small plastic fuse remover which can be clipped over the back of the fuse and used as a handle to pull it free.
Once the fuse is out, view the fusible element through the clear plastic of the fuse case. An intact fuse will show a continuous horseshoe-shaped wire within the plastic. This element simply connects one blade with the other; if it's intact, power can pass. If the fuse is blown, the link inside the fuse will show a break, possibly accompanied by a small black mark. This shows that the link broke when the electrical current exceeded the wires ability to carry it.
Once removed, any fuse may be checked for continuity with an ohmmeter. A reliable general rule is to always replace a suspect fuse with a new one. Doing so eliminates one variable in the diagnostic path and may cure the problem outright. Remember, however, that a blown fuse is rarely the cause of a problem; the fuse is opening to protect the circuit from some other malfunction either in the wiring or the component itself. Always replace a fuse or other electrical component with one of equal amperage rating; NEVER increase the ampere rating of the circuit. The number on the back of the fuse body (5, 7.5, 10, 15, etc.) indicates the rated amperage of the fuse.