REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 and 2
- Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. Set the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
- Siphon a sufficient quantity of brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent the brake fluid from overflowing the master cylinder when removing or installing the calipers. This is necessary as the piston must be forced into the cylinder bore to provide sufficient clearance to remove and/or install the caliper.
- Remove the wheel, then reinstall 2 lug nuts finger-tight to hold the disc in place.
- Use a caliper compressor, a C-clamp or large pair of pliers to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper.
Disassemble brakes one wheel at a time. This will prevent parts confusion and also prevent the opposite caliper piston from popping out during installation.
- Disconnect the hose union at the caliper. Use a pan to catch any spilled fluid and immediately plug the disconnected hose.
- Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and then remove the caliper from the mounting bracket.
- Install the caliper assembly to the mounting plate. Before installing the retaining bolts, apply a thin, even coating of lithium base glycol grease or an equivalent high-temperature brake grease to the threads and slide surfaces. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
- Install the brake hose to the caliper. Always use a new gasket and tighten the union to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
- Bleed the brake system.
- Remove the 2 lugs holding the disc in place and install the wheel.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir; it should be at least to the middle of the reservoir. Fill, as necessary
See Figures 3 through 7
For reasons of safety and reliability, we recommend that if one caliper requires replacement/overhaul, both calipers should be replaced/overhauled as a set.
- Drain the remaining fluid from the caliper.
- Carefully remove the dust boot from around the piston.
- Grasp the piston and carefully extract it from the caliper bore (a turning/pulling motion may ease removal). If the piston will not come out of it's bore, it can usually be removed using compressed air. Cushion the inside arms of the caliper with a block of wood or rags. Apply compressed air into the brake line port; this will force the piston out.
- Remove the seal from the inside of the caliper bore. Check all the parts for wear, scoring, deterioration, cracking or other abnormal conditions. Corrosion, generally caused by water in the system, will appear as white deposits on the metal (similar to what may be found on an old aluminum storm door on your house). Pay close attention to the condition of the inside of the caliper bore and the outside of the piston. Any sign of corrosion or scoring requires new parts; do not attempt to clean or resurface.
- A caliper overhaul kit usually contains, at minimum, new seals and dust boots. A good kit will contain a new piston as well, but you may have to buy the piston separately. Any time the caliper is disassembled, a new piston is highly recommended in addition to the new seals.
- Clean all the components to be reused with an aerosol brake solvent and dry them thoroughly. Use a clean, lint-free cloth to wipe moisture or water vapor from the parts.
- Coat all the caliper components with fresh brake fluid.
Some repair kits come with special assembly lubricant for the piston and seal. Use this lubricant according to directions with the kit.
- Install the piston seal and piston into the caliper bore. This is an exacting job; the clearances are very small. Make sure that the seal is seated in its groove and that the piston is not cocked when inserted into the bore.
- Install the dust boot and its clip or ring.
- Install the slide bushings and rubber boots onto the caliper if they were removed during disassembly.