REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 6
- Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. Set the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
- Siphon a sufficient quantity of brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent the brake fluid from overflowing the master cylinder when removing or installing the brake pads. This is necessary as the piston must be forced into the cylinder bore to provide sufficient clearance to remove and/or install the pads.
- Remove the wheel, then reinstall 2 lug nuts finger-tight to hold the disc in place.
- Use a caliper compressor, a C-clamp or large pair of pliers to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper. If the piston is frozen, or if the caliper is leaking hydraulic fluid, the caliper must be overhauled or replaced.
Disassemble brakes one wheel at a time. This will prevent parts confusion and also prevent the opposite caliper piston from popping out during pad installation.
- Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper from the mounting bracket. Position the caliper out of the way and support it with wire so it doesn't hang by the brake line.
- Remove the brake pads, wear indicators, anti-squeal shims, support plates and the anti-squeal springs. Disassemble slowly and take note of how the parts fit together (refer to exploded view of components). This will save time during reassembly.
- Inspect the brake disc (both sides) for scoring or gouging. Measure the disc for both thickness and run-out. Refer to the inspection procedures in this section.
- Inspect the pads for remaining thickness and condition. Any sign of uneven wear, cracking, heat checking or spotting requires replacement. Compare the wear of the inner pad to the outer pad. While they will not wear at exactly the same rate, the remaining thickness should be about the same on both pads. If one is heavily worn and the other is not, suspect either a binding caliper piston or dirty slides in the caliper mount. Brake pads should always be replaced in sets (both wheels).
- Examine the two caliper retaining bolts and the slide bushings in which they run. Everything should be clean and dry. If cleaning is needed, use spray solvents and a clean cloth. Do not wire brush or sand the bolts; this will cause grooves in the metal which will trap more dirt. Check the condition of the rubber dust boots and replace them if damaged.
- Install the pad support plates onto the mounting bracket.
- Install new pad wear indicators onto each pad, making sure the arrow on the tab points in the direction of disc rotation.
- Install new anti-squeal pads to the back of the pads.
- Install the pads into the mounting bracket, then install the anti-squeal springs.
- Install the caliper assembly to the mounting plate. Before installing the retaining bolts, apply a thin, even coating of lithium soap base glycol grease or an equivalent high-temperature brake grease to the threads and slide surfaces. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
- Remove the 2 lugs holding the disc in place, then install the wheel.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir; it should be at least to the middle of the reservoir.
- Depress the brake pedal several times and make sure that the movement feels normal. The first brake pedal application may result in a very long stroke due to the pistons being retracted. Always make several brake applications before starting the vehicle. Bleeding is not usually necessary after pad replacement.
- Recheck the fluid level and add to the MAX line, if necessary.
Braking should be moderate for the first 5 miles or so until the new pads seat correctly. The new pads will burnish best if put through several moderate heating and cooling cycles. Avoid hard braking until the brakes have experienced several long, slow stops with time to cool in between. Taking the time to properly burnish the brakes will yield quieter operation, more efficient stopping and contribute to extended brake life.
See Figures 7 and 8
The front brake pads may be inspected without removal. With the front end elevated and supported, remove the wheel(s). Unlock the steering column lock and turn the wheel so that the brake caliper is out from under the fender.
View the pads through the cut-out in the center of the caliper. Remember to look at the thickness of the pad friction material (the part that actually presses on the disc) rather than the thickness of the backing plate which does not change with wear.
Remember that you are looking at the profile of the pad, not the whole thing. Brake pads can wear on a taper which may not be visible through the window. It is also not possible to check the contact surface for cracking or scoring from this position. This quick check can be helpful only as a reference; detailed inspection requires pad removal.