Toyota Tercel 1984-1994 Repair Guide

Halfshafts

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1 through 20


CAUTION
On models equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or "air bag,'' work must NOT be started until at least 90 seconds have passed from the time that both the ignition switch is turned to the LOCK position and the negative cable is disconnected from the battery.

Wagons and 1984-1986 Sedans
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the wheel cover.
  4.  
  5. Remove the cotter pin, hub nut cap, hub nut and washer.
  6.  
  7. Loosen the wheel nuts.
  8.  
  9. Raise and safely support the car. Remove the wheel.
  10.  
  11. Remove the brake caliper from the steering knuckle, then suspend it with a wire. Remove the disc. Refer to the appropriate procedures in this repair guide.
  12.  
  13. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end. Using SST 09610-20012 or it's equivalent tie rod separator, disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
  14.  
  15. Matchmark the position of the shock absorber lower bracket and camber adjusting cam to the steering knuckle.
  16.  
  17. Remove the nuts and bolts, then disconnect the steering knuckle.
  18.  
  19. Using SST 09950-20016 or it's equivalent hub puller, press the axle hub from the halfshaft outboard joint. Cover the halfshaft boot with a shop rag to protect it from damage.
  20.  
  21. Remove the stiffener plate from the transaxle assembly and engine (left side only).
  22.  
  23. Using SST 09648-16010 or it's equivalent halfshaft removal tool, tap the halfshaft out of the transaxle.
  24.  

To install:
  1. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip on the transaxle.
  2.  
  3. Using SST 09648-16010 or it's equivalent halfshaft installation tool, tap the halfshaft into the transaxle until it contacts the pinion shaft in the transaxle and the snapring engages in the side gear. The halfshaft should not pull out of the transaxle by hand.
  4.  
  5. Install the stiffener plate (left side only). Torque the bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
  6.  
  7. Install the halfshaft to the axle hub with the washer and hub nut. Be careful not to damage the oil lip seal and the halfshaft boot.
  8.  
  9. Install the disc to the axle hub.
  10.  
  11. Lower the stabilizer bar, then assemble the shock absorber lower bracket to the steering knuckle.
  12.  
  13. Insert the bolts from the front side, then align the matchmarks of the camber adjusting cam. Torque the bolts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
  14.  
  15. Install the brake caliper to the steering knuckle. Refer to the appropriate procedure in this repair guide.
  16.  
  17. Connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm), then secure it with a new cotter pin.
  18.  
  19. Torque the hub nut to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm). Install the hub nut cap, then install a new cotter pin.
  20.  
  21. Install the wheel.
  22.  
  23. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  24.  
  25. Have the front wheel alignment checked and/or adjusted by a reputable service facility. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
  26.  



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Fig. Fig. 1: Heavy grease around the inside of the wheel or on the brake caliper usually indicates a torn boot



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Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the brake disc, if necessary, for increased working space



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Fig. Fig. 3: Needle nose pliers are useful for removing cotter pins



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Fig. Fig. 4: On some models, it will be necessary to remove the left side stiffener plate



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Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the cotter pin before removing the nut which secures the outer tie rod end



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Fig. Fig. 6: Separating the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle



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Fig. Fig. 7: Paint matchmarks on the bracket and steering knuckle before removing the bolts



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Fig. Fig. 8: On 1991-1994 models, disconnect the lower control arm from the steering knuckle



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Fig. Fig. 9: A special tool is required to press the halfshaft from the hub on wagons and 1984-1986 sedans



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Fig. Fig. 10: On other models, thread the hub nut onto the shaft, then tap it loose



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Fig. Fig. 11: Be careful not to damage the oil seal when separating the driveshaft from the hub



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Fig. Fig. 12: A special tool is used to prevent hub bearing damage on 1987-1990 sedans



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Fig. Fig. 13: Removing the halfshaft on wagons and 1984-1986 sedans



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Fig. Fig. 14: A special tool is used to remove and install the halfshafts on 1987-1990 sedans



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Fig. Fig. 15: Use a prybar or hammer handle to remove the left side halfshaft on 1991-1994 models



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Fig. Fig. 16: A brass drift and hammer can be used to remove the right side halfshaft on 1991-1994 models



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Fig. Fig. 17: Always replace the snapring on the transaxle end of the halfshaft



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Fig. Fig. 18: Be careful not to damage the oil seal in the transaxle when installing the halfshaft



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Fig. Fig. 19: A new hub nut should always be used. The hub nut cap and cotter pin should be installed to ensure the hub nut retains it's proper torque



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Fig. Fig. 20: Exploded view of a common halfshaft

1987-1990 Sedans

The hub bearing could be damaged if it is subjected to the vehicle weight, such as when moving the vehicle with the halfshaft removed. If it is necessary to place the vehicle weight on the hub bearing, support it with SST 09608-16041, 09608-02020, 09608-02040 or a equivalent hub bearing support tool.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the engine under cover.
  4.  
  5. Drain the transaxle fluid.
  6.  
  7. Remove the wheel cover.
  8.  
  9. Remove the cotter pin, hub nut cap, hub nut and washer.
  10.  
  11. Loosen the wheel nuts.
  12.  
  13. Raise and safely support the car. Remove the wheel.
  14.  
  15. Remove the brake caliper from the steering knuckle, then suspend it with a wire. Remove the disc. Refer to the appropriate procedures in this repair guide.
  16.  
  17. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end. Using SST 09610-55012 or it's equivalent tie rod separator, disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
  18.  
  19. Matchmark the position of the shock absorber lower bracket and camber adjusting cam to the steering knuckle.
  20.  
  21. Remove the nuts and bolts, then disconnect the steering knuckle.
  22.  
  23. Thread the hub nut part way onto the halfshaft. Using a brass faced hammer, tap the halfshaft outboard joint loose from the axle hub. Remove the nut, then slide the outboard joint out of the hub. Cover the halfshaft boot with a shop rag to protect it from damage.
  24.  
  25. Using SST 09520-10021 or it's equivalent halfshaft removal/installation tool (slide hammer type), drive the halfshaft out of the transaxle.
  26.  

To install:
  1. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip on the transaxle.
  2.  
  3. Using SST 09520-10021 or it's equivalent halfshaft removal/installation tool (slide hammer type), drive the halfshaft into the transaxle until it contacts the pinion shaft in the transaxle and the snapring engages in the side gear. Check that there is between 0.008-0.12 in. (2-3mm) of axial play. The halfshaft should not pull out of the transaxle by hand.
  4.  
  5. Install the halfshaft to the axle hub. Be careful not to damage the oil lip seal and the halfshaft boot.
  6.  
  7. Assemble the shock absorber lower bracket to the steering knuckle, then align the matchmarks of the camber adjusting cam. Torque the bolts to 166 ft. lbs. (226 Nm).
  8.  
  9. Connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm), then secure it with a new cotter pin.
  10.  
  11. Install the disc and caliper to the steering knuckle.
  12.  
  13. Torque the hub nut to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm). Install the hub nut cap, then install a new cotter pin.
  14.  
  15. Fill the transaxle with the appropriate fluid. For details please refer to Routine Maintenance .
  16.  
  17. Install the wheel.
  18.  
  19. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  20.  
  21. Have the front wheel alignment checked and/or adjusted by a reputable service facility. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
  22.  

1991-1994 Sedans
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the engine under cover.
  4.  
  5. Drain the transaxle fluid.
  6.  
  7. Remove the wheel cover.
  8.  
  9. Remove the cotter pin, hub nut cap, hub nut and washer.
  10.  
  11. Loosen the wheel nuts.
  12.  
  13. Raise and safely support the car. Remove the wheel.
  14.  
  15. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end. Using SST 09628-62011 or an equivalent tie rod separator, disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
  16.  
  17. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the lower control arm by removing the attaching nuts/bolts.
  18.  
  19. Thread the hub nut part way onto the halfshaft. Using a brass faced hammer, tap the halfshaft outboard joint loose from the axle hub. Remove the nut, then slide the outboard joint out of the hub. Cover the halfshaft boot with a shop rag to protect it from damage.
  20.  
  21. To remove the left side halfshaft, use a prybar or hammer handle to disconnect the driveshaft from the transaxle. To remove the right side halfshaft, use a brass drift and hammer to tap the shaft out of the transaxle.
  22.  

To install:
  1. Install a new snapring on the end of the halfshaft.
  2.  
  3. Install the halfshaft to the transaxle, then, using a brass drift and hammer, drive halfshaft into the transaxle until it contacts the pinion shaft in the transaxle and the snapring engages in the side gear. Check that there is between 0.008-0.12 in. (2-3mm) of axial play. The halfshaft should not pull out of the transaxle by hand.
  4.  
  5. Connect the halfshaft to the axle hub.
  6.  
  7. Connect the lower ball joint to the lower control arm and torque the bolts/nuts to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
  8.  
  9. Connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle, then torque the nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
  10.  
  11. Install the hub nut, then torque to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1991 models, 166 ft. lbs. (226 Nm) on 1992-1993 models, and 159 ft. lbs. (216 Nm) on 1994 models. Install the lock-cap and a new cotter pin.
  12.  
  13. Fill the transaxle with the appropriate fluid. Please refer to Routine Maintenance for details.
  14.  
  15. Install the wheel.
  16.  
  17. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  18.  
  19. Have the front wheel alignment checked and/or adjusted by a reputable service facility. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
  20.  

CV JOINT OVERHAUL



See Figures 21 through 35

The halfshaft assembly is a flexible unit consisting of an inner and outer Constant Velocity (CV) joint joined by an axle shaft. Care must be taken not to over-extend the joint assembly during repairs or handling. When either end of the shaft is disconnected from the car, any over-extension could result in separation of the internal components and possible joint failure.

The CV joints are protected by rubber boots designed to keep the high-temperature grease in, while keeping the road grime and water out. The most common cause of joint failure is a ripped boot (tow hooks on halfshaft when car is being towed) which allows the lubricant to leave the joint, thus causing heavy wear. The boots are exposed to road hazards all the time and should be inspected frequently. Any time a boot is found to be damaged or slit, it should be replaced immediately.



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Fig. Fig. 21: A small prybar can be used to remove the boot clamps



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Fig. Fig. 22: Paint matchmarks to ensure assembly in the original position

Whenever the driveshaft is held in a vise, use pieces of wood in the jaws to protect the components from damage or deformation. Read the entire procedure before continuing and refer to the exploded view of the halfshaft assembly components as a guide.

  1. Remove the halfshaft and securely mount it in a vise.
  2.  
  3. Using snapring pliers, remove the snapring from the transaxle end of the halfshaft. This is the inboard joint.
  4.  
  5. Remove the inboard boot retaining clamps. Slide the boot out of the way, exposing the joint.
  6.  
  7. Paint matchmarks on the inboard joint tulip and tripod. Do not use a punch to make the matchmarks.
  8.  



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Fig. Fig. 23: Removing the snapring. A new snapring should be used during reassembly



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Fig. Fig. 24: Matchmarks should be painted on the shaft and tripod before removal. Do not tap on the rollers

  1. Remove the inboard joint tulip from the halfshaft. Clean all grease from the tripod joint and rollers.
  2.  
  3. Use snapring pliers to remove the tripod joint retaining ring.
  4.  
  5. Paint matchmarks on the shaft and tripod. Do not use a punch to make these marks.
  6.  
  7. Tape the rollers together to prevent them from falling off the tripod joint.
  8.  
  9. Using a brass drift, uniformly tap the tripod joint from the shaft. Do not tap on the rollers.
  10.  



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Fig. Fig. 25: Mark the position of the damper before removing it



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Fig. Fig. 26: The outboard joint should not be removed or disassembled

  1. Remove the boot from the shaft. Remove the clamp and dynamic damper, if applicable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the boot clamps from the outboard joint, then remove the boot.
  4.  

Do not remove or disassemble the outboard CV joint. If it is worn or damaged, the joint/shaft assembly must be replaced with a new unit.

  1. Clean all parts thoroughly and inspect for wear, damage or corrosion. Look for any scratches, cracks or galling of the metal. Replace any components, as necessary.
  2.  

To assemble:
  1. Slide a new outboard joint boot onto the shaft. Wrap vinyl or teflon tape around the spline of the shaft to prevent damaging the boot.
  2.  
  3. Install the dynamic damper and clamp, if applicable. Make sure the damper is installed in the correct location on the shaft.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 27: Tape the end of the shaft to prevent damaging the boot



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Fig. Fig. 28: Make sure the damper is installed in the proper location

  1. Slide a new inboard joint boot onto the shaft, then remove the tape from the splines.
  2.  
  3. Assemble the tripod joint onto the shaft. Align the matchmarks, then place the beveled side of the tripod axial spline toward the outboard joint and install it onto the shaft.
  4.  
  5. Use a brass drift and hammer to seat the tripod the correct distance onto the shaft. The retaining ring groove should be exposed.
  6.  
  7. Using snapring pliers, install a new tripod joint retaining ring.
  8.  
  9. Assemble the boot to the outboard joint shaft. On all wagons and 1984-1986 sedans, pack 0.5 lb. (240 g) of grease into the joint. On 1987-1994 sedans, pack 0.26-0.29 lb. (120-130 g) of grease into the joint. This grease is usually supplied in the boot kit. If not, use grease specifically formulated for CV joint use.
  10.  



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Fig. Fig. 29: The beveled side of the joint should be installed towards the outboard joint



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Fig. Fig. 30: Align the matchmarks, then install the joint on the shaft

  1. Align the matchmarks, then assemble the inboard joint to the shaft. On all wagons and 1984-1986 sedans, pack 0.2 lb. (90 g) of grease into the joint and 0.1 lb. (50 g) of grease into the boot. On 1987-1994 sedans, pack 0.31-0.33 lb. (140-150 g) of grease into the joint and/or boot.
  2.  
  3. Assemble the clamps onto the boots. Be sure the boot is properly positioned on the shaft groove, then bend the band and lock it.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 31: Use a hammer and brass drift to seat the joint the correct distance on the shaft

  1. Check the shaft for correct length. Insure that the boot is not stretched or contracted when the halfshaft is at it's specified length. The right side halfshaft on wagons and 1984-1986 sedans should be approximately 24.41 in. (620mm) in length. The left side should be approximately 28.43 in. (722mm). On 1987-1994 sedans, the left side halfshaft should be approximately 21.815 in. (554mm) in length. The right side halfshaft should be 30.882 in. (784mm) in length.
  2.  
  3. Install a new snapring to the inboard joint shaft.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 32: Fill the joint and/or boot with the proper amount of grease



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Fig. Fig. 33: Align the matchmarks, then slide the tulip assembly onto the tripod



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Fig. Fig. 34: The boot clamps should be locked as shown



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Fig. Fig. 35: Measure the halfshaft to check for correct overall length

 
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