Repairing Damaged Threads
Several methods of repairing damaged threads are available. Heli-Coil® (shown here), Keenserts® and Microdot® are among the most widely used. All involve basically the same principle-drilling out stripped threads, tapping the hole and installing a prewound insert-making welding, plugging and oversize fasteners unnecessary.
Two types of thread repair inserts are usually supplied: a standard type for most inch coarse, inch fine, metric course and metric fine thread sizes and a spark lug type to fit most spark plug port sizes. Consult the individual tool manufacturer's catalog to determine exact applications. Typical thread repair kits will contain a selection of prewound threaded inserts, a tap (corresponding to the outside diameter threads of the insert) and an installation tool. Spark plug inserts usually differ because they require a tap equipped with pilot threads and a combined reamer/tap section. Most manufacturers also supply blister-packed thread repair inserts separately in addition to a master kit containing a variety of taps and inserts plus installation tools.
Before attempting to repair a threaded hole, remove any snapped, broken or damaged bolts or studs. Penetrating oil can be used to free frozen threads. The offending item can usually be removed with locking pliers or using a screw/stud extractor. After the hole is clear, the thread can be repaired, as shown in the series of accompanying illustrations and in the kit manufacturer's instructions.Tools
The tools required for an engine overhaul or parts replacement will depend on the depth of your involvement. With a few exceptions, they will be the tools found in a mechanic's tool kit (see Section 1 of this manual). More in-depth work will require some or all of the following:
The use of most of these tools is illustrated in this section. Many can be rented for a one-time use from a local parts jobber or tool supply house specializing in automotive work.
Occasionally, the use of special tools is called for. See the information on Special Tools and the Safety Notice in the front of this book before substituting another tool.
Removal & Installation
In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as -disconnect the exhaust system'' or -remove the radiator-. In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this manual.
It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:
The engine is removed with the transaxle attached. The engine and transaxle are lowered from the vehicle as an assembly.
- Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. Please refer to Fuel System, Electronic Fuel Injection, Relieving Fuel System Pressure for the procedure.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTIONNever open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
- Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
Remove the air cleaner assembly and air cleaner-to-intake manifold hose.
CAUTIONThe EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
- Drain the engine oil.
- On 1993-98 3.0L engines, disconnect the radiator overflow hose from the radiator filler neck and remove the recovery tank.
Label and disconnect all electrical connectors from the engine and transaxle.
CAUTIONObserve all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion.
- Disconnect and plug the fuel lines.
- Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister. On 1993-98 California emissions vehicles and all 1999-00 vehicles, disconnect the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor electrical and vacuum connections. Next to the MAP sensor, disconnect the EVAP canister purge test port connections.
On 1993-98 3.0L engines:
Remove the ignition coil.
On 1999-00 3.3L engines:
Disconnect the distributor wiring harnesses.
- Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle lever. If the vehicle is equipped with cruise control, disconnect the actuator cable from the throttle lever.
- Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold (plenum).
- Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses.
- Remove the A/C drive belt.
- Remove the two upper A/C compressor bolts.
- Disconnect the heater hoses.
- Disconnect the brake booster hose from the intake manifold.
- Remove the ground cable from the oil filler tube.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle.
- Remove the front wheels.
- Remove the inner and outer engine and transaxle splash shields.
- Remove the transaxle shift cable nut and shift cable from the manual shift linkage rod.
- Using a screwdriver, release the shift cable locking pin from the shift cable bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.
- At the front of the engine, remove the oil pressure sensor wire and the alternator electrical connections. Remove the alternator wiring bracket screw.
- Remove the accessory drive belts.
- Remove the power steering pump. Access the front power steering pump-to-bracket bolts by inserting a socket through the pulley holes.
- Remove the two lower A/C compressor bolts and position the compressor aside without disconnecting the refrigerant lines.
- Remove the exhaust inlet pipe.
- Remove the halfshafts. Please refer to Drive Train, Automatic Transaxle, Halfshafts, Removal and Installation for the procedure.
- Label and disconnect the transaxle cooler lines from the transaxle.
- Disconnect the transaxle ground connection.
- Position a suitable jack or powertrain lift under the engine and transaxle assembly. If necessary, place blocks of wood between the lift and the engine/transaxle assembly to prevent damage to the assembly or underbody components.
- Remove the front transaxle mount bolts.
- Remove the rear transaxle mount nuts.
- On 1993-98 3.0L engines, remove the two rear refrigerant/heater pipe hold-down bracket bolts.
- Remove the four transverse member bolts.
- Remove the transverse member-to-engine mount bolts and remove the transverse member.
- Carefully lower the engine and transaxle assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the crank position (CKP) sensor heat shield, the sensor, and the starter motor.
NOTEBe careful not to damage the crankshaft position sensor or the flywheel ring gear teeth during disassembly.
- Remove the bolts from both transaxle braces.
- Remove the lower transaxle-to-engine bolts.
- Remove the transaxle inspection cover.
- Mark the torque converter and flywheel to ensure proper positioning during reassembly.
- Remove the four torque converter-to-flywheel bolts. Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the flywheel and torque converter to gain access to the bolts, and to stop the crankshaft from turning.
- Remove the upper transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Separate the transaxle from the engine.
- The installation is the reverse of removal, but please note the following important steps.
- When assembling the transaxle to the engine, make sure that the alignment dowels are properly positioned. Tighten the lower transaxle-to-engine bolt to 22-30 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm). Align the torque converter and flywheel to their original positions. Tighten the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts to 33-43 ft. lbs. (44-59 Nm). Tighten the upper transaxle-to-engine bolts to 29-36 ft. lbs. (39-49 Nm).
After raising the engine and transaxle assembly into the vehicle, tighten the transverse member bolts to 58-65 ft. lbs. (78-88 Nm).
WARNINGOperating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage.
- Fill the cooling system. Fill the engine crankcase with the proper type of motor oil to the required level.
- Run the engine and check for leaks.