REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with a gland nut, and is located by 4 dowels. Some models have a paper gasket between the flywheel and the crankshaft; others have a metal gasket. Beginning with the 1967 model year, a metal sealing gasket is no longer present between the flywheel and crankshaft. An oil seal is recessed in the crankcase casting the No. 1 main bearing. A needle bearing, which supports the main drive shaft, is located in the gland nut. Prior to removing the flywheel, it is necessary to remove the clutch pressure plate and the clutch driven plate. Loosen the gland nut and remove it, using a 36mm special wrench and flywheel retainer. Remove the guide plate of the special wrench. Remove the gland nut and withdraw the flywheel.
Installation is the reverse of the foregoing procedure, plus the following: check flywheel teeth for wear and damage. Check the dowel holes in the flywheel and the crankshaft and renew the dowels, if necessary. Adjust the crankshaft end-play and check the needle bearing in the gland nut for wear. Lubricate the needle bearing with about 1 gram of universal grease. Insert the flywheel gasket, if one is used in the engine. (Note: to minimize engine imbalance, the crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch are marked at their heaviest points. Upon assembly, be sure that the marks on these units are offset by 120°. If but two of these parts are marked, the marks should be offset by 180°. Tighten the flywheel gland nut to 217 ft. lbs. torque and check flywheel run-out, which should be a maximum of 0.012 in. (0.3mm).