Volkswagen Air-Cooled 1970-1981 Repair Guide




On the Type 1 and 2/1600, the crankshaft pulley can be removed while the engine is still in the car. However, in this instance it is necessary for the rear cover plate of the engine to be removed. Remove the cover plate after taking out the screws in the cover plate below the crankshaft pulley. Remove the fan belt and the crankshaft pulley securing screw. Using a puller, remove the crankshaft pulley. The crankshaft pulley should be checked for proper seating and belt contact. The oil return thread should be cleaned and lubricated with oil. The crankshaft pulley should be installed in the reverse sequence. Check for oil leaks after installing the pulley.

On the Type 3, the crankshaft pulley can be removed only when the engine is out of the car and the muffler, generator, and cooling air intake housing are removed. After these parts have been removed, take out the plastic cap in the pulley. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and remove the pulley.

Type 4 and Type 2/1700, 2/1800 and 2/2000, removal is the same as the Type 3. However, the pulley is secured by three socket head screws and a self locking nut.

Installation for Type 2/1700, 2/1800, 2/2000, 3 and 4 engines is the reverse of removal. When installing, use a new paper gasket between the fan and the crankshaft pulley. If shims are used, do not forget them. Don't use more than two shims. When inserting the pulley, make sure that the pin engages the hole in the fan. Ensure that the clearance between the generator belt and the intake housing is at least 4mm and that the belt is parallel to the housing.

Flywheel See Figures 1, and 2

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Because of the large amount of torque holding the flywheel gland nut onto the crankshaft, a removal and installation tool can be fabricated from a 4 ft. length of angle iron stock

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Cutaway view of the crankshaft-to-flywheel gland nutthe gland nut also houses a set of needle bearings

In order to remove the flywheel, the crankshaft will have to be prevented from turning. This may be accomplished on Type 1, 2/1600 and Type 3 models by using a 3 or 4 foot length of angle iron or thick stock sheet steel, such as an old fence post. Drill out two holes in the metal bar that correspond to two of the pressure plate retaining bolt holes. The metal bar is installed as per the accompanying illustration.TYPES 1, 2/1600 AND 3

The flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with a gland nut and is located by four dowel pins. An oil seal is recessed in the crankcase casting at No. 1 main bearing. A needle bearing, which supports the main driveshaft, is located in the gland nut. Prior to removing the flywheel, it is necessary to remove it, using a 36mm special wrench. Before removing the flywheel, matchmark the flywheel and the crankshaft.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Before installing the flywheel, check the flywheel teeth for any wear or damage. Check the dowel pins for correct fit in the crankshaft and in the flywheel. Adjust the crankshaft end-play and check the needle bearing in the gland nut for wear.

TYPES 2/1700, 2/1800, 2/2000 AND 4

Removal and installation is similar to the Type 1, 2/1600, and 3 except that the flywheel is secured to the crankshaft by five socket head screws.

Crankshaft Oil Seal (Flywheel End)

This seal is removed after removing the flywheel. After the flywheel is removed, inspect the surface on the flywheel joining flange where the seal makes contact. If there is a deep groove or any other damage, the flywheel must be replaced. Remove the oil seal recess and coat it thinly with a sealing compound. Be sure that the seal rests squarely on the bottom of its recess. Make sure that the correct side of the seal is facing outward, that is, the lip of the seal should be facing the inside of the crankcase. Reinstall the flywheel after coating the oil seal contact surface with oil.

Be careful not to damage the seal when sliding the flywheel into place.CrankshaftSee the"Engine Rebuilding"section for crankshaft refinishing procedures.

Removal of the crankshaft requires splitting the crankcase. After the crankcase is opened, the crankshaft can then be lifted out.

The crankshaft bearings are held in place by dowel pins. These pins must be checked for tightness.

When installing the bearings, make sure that the oil holes in the shells are properly aligned. Be sure that the bearing shells are seated properly on their dowel pins. Bearing shells are available in three undersizes. Measure the crankshaft bearing journals to determine the proper bearing size. Place one half of the No. 2 crankshaft bearing in the crankcase. Slide the No. 1 bearing on the crankshaft so that the dowel pin hole is toward the flywheel and the oil groove faces toward the fan. The No. 3 bearing is installed with the dowel pin hole facing toward the crankshaft web.

To remove the No. 3 main bearing, remove the distributor gear circlip and the distributor drive gear. Mild heat (176º F) must be applied to remove the gear. Next slide the spacer off of the crankshaft. The crankshaft timing gear should now be pressed off the crankshaft after mild heating. When the timing gear is reinstalled, the chamfer must face towards the No. 3 bearing. The No. 3 bearing can then be replaced. When removing and installing the gears on the crankshaft, be careful not to damage the No. 4 bearing journal.

When all of the crankshaft bearings are in place, lift the crankshaft and the connecting rod assembly into the crankcase and align the valve timing marks.

Install the crankcase half and reassemble the engine.