Volvo Cars 1999-05

Lower Control Arms

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Removal & Installation



  1. Remove the front wheels
  2.  
  3. Remove the nut on the ball joint. Use a Torx wrench as a counterhold so that the rubber boot is not damaged.
  4.  
  5. Remove the splash guard under the engine.
  6.  
  7. Install the retaining strap to bend the control arms down.
  8.  


WARNING
Ensure that the tension strap is correctly secured in the control arms.

  1. Pull down the control arms using a tension strap.
  2.  
  3. Release the spring strut from the control arm
  4.  
  5. Remove the tensioner strap.
  6.  
  7. Remove the bolt from the halfshaft. Use a counterhold on the brake disc
  8.  
  9. Remove the halfshaft from the hub. Knock the halfshaft out using a brass drift
  10.  
  11. Push the spring strut to one side.
  12.  


    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Left lower control arm removal-S60, S70, S80, V70

    Left lower control arm removal-S60, S70, S80, V70

    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Right lower control arm removal-S60, S70, S80, V70

    Right lower control arm removal-S60, S70, S80, V70

On the right side:

  1. Remove the hose from the EVAP canister and the fuel line from the engine block heater (where applicable) from their mountings. Move the hose and fuel line to one side.
  2.  
  3. Lift the engine approximately 10 mm using a mobile jack so that the front 2 bolts on the control arm can be removed
  4.  
  5. Position a mobile jack with a universal plate under the oil pan on the right side of the engine.
  6.  
  7. Remove the bolts and the nut from the control arm in the sub-frame
  8.  
  9. Remove the control arm.
  10.  

On the left side:

  1. Lift the engine approximately 15 mm using a mobile jack so that the front bolts on the control arm can be removed.
  2.  
  3. Position a mobile jack with a universal plate under the oil pan on the left side of the engine.
  4.  
  5. Remove the bolts and the nuts from the control arm in the sub-frame
  6.  
  7. Remove the control arm.
  8.  

To install:

On the right side:

  1. For the right-hand control arm, lift the engine 10 mm using a mobile jack.
  2.  
  3. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts and a new nut
  4.  
  5. Tighten the front bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  6.  
  7. Tighten the rear bolt and nut. Tighten to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  8.  
  9. Remove the jack.
  10.  
  11. Install the hose at the EVAP canister and the fuel line for the engine block heater (if applicable) in their mountings on the sub-frame.
  12.  
  13. Reinstall the splash guard under the engine.
  14.  

On the left side:

  1. Lift the engine 15 mm using a mobile jack.
  2.  
  3. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts and new nuts
  4.  
  5. Tighten the front bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  6.  
  7. Tighten the rear bolt and nut. Tighten to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  8.  
  9. Remove the mobile jack
  10.  
  11. Reinstall the splash guard under the engine.
  12.  
  13. Turn in the wheel spindle and locate the halfshaft in the hub.
  14.  


NOTE
Check that the seal is not worn or damaged. Replace if necessary. Ensure that the sealing ring is correctly positioned on the halfshaft.

  1. Clean the splines on the halfshaft.
  2.  
  3. Install the halfshaft in the hub.
  4.  
  5. Install a new bolt. Use a counterhold. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus 90 deg.
  6.  
  7. Install the retaining strap to bend the control arms down
  8.  


NOTE
Ensure that the tension strap is correctly secured in the control arms.

  1. Align the ball joints (1) in the control arm.
  2.  


NOTE
Take care when releasing the tension strap.

  1. Slowly release the control arms by releasing the tension strap.
  2.  
  3. Install a new nut
  4.  


NOTE
The ball joint pinion must not rotate. Use a Torx wrench as a counterhold so that the rubber boot is not damaged. Tighten to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).

  1. Install the wheels.
  2.  

  1. Remove the stub axle and engine splash guard.
  2.  

On the left side:

  1. Remove the front engine mounting bolt.
  2.  
  3. Lift the left side of the engine approx. 1 inch (25 mm) to expose the control arm bolt.
  4.  
  5. Remove the bolts for the control arm in the sub-frame and remove the control arm.
  6.  

On the right side:

  1. Remove the vibration damper, if equipped with a 6-cylinder engine.
  2.  
  3. Remove both right hand engine mounting bolts.
  4.  
  5. Lift up the ride side of the engine approx. 1 inch (25 mm) to expose the control arm bolt.
  6.  
  7. Remove the bolts for the control arm in the sub-frame and remove the control arm.
  8.  

To install:

  1. Install the control arm on the sub-frame using new fasteners. Tighten the front bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) plus 90 degrees and tighten the rear bolt to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) plus 90 degrees.
  2.  

On the left side:

  1. Lower the engine and tighten the front engine mounting bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  2.  

On the right side:

  1. Lower the engine and tighten the right engine mounting bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus 90 degrees.
  2.  
  3. Install the vibration damper using new bolts and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus 50 degrees.
  4.  

Applies to either side:

  1. Install the stub axle and engine splash guard.
  2.  

  1. Remove the wheel
  2.  
  3. Remove the halfshaft bolt. Use a counterhold.
  4.  
  5. Detach the halfshaft end at the hub Tap in the shaft end approximately 10-15 mm. Use a rubber or copper mallet.
  6.  
  7. Blow clean around the ball joint with compressed air.
  8.  
  9. Generously spray the ball joint and the bolt and nut retaining the ball joint using rust penetrator.
  10.  


NOTE
Do not insert a screwdriver or punch between the ears on the wheel spindle.

  1. If the bolt has rusted solid, slacken off the nut a few turns. Knock the bolt so that it loosens.
  2.  
  3. Remove the bolt and the nut.
  4.  
  5. Spray the ball joint with rust penetrator again.
  6.  


NOTE
The inner diameter of the socket must be larger than the outer diameter of the cover. This is to prevent damage to the cover.

  1. Tap the ball joint off the wheel spindle. Use a socket as a spacer.
  2.  
  3. Spray the ball joint with rust penetrator again.
  4.  
  5. Move the ball joint up and down by hand (or a jimmy bar can be used) until the ball joint detaches from the wheel spindle.
  6.  
  7. Withdraw the halfshaft from the hub.
  8.  
  9. Twist the spring strut to one side. Hang the halfshaft so that the control arm is not in contact with the halfshafts.
  10.  
  11. Remove the two bolts from the engine pad on the right side.
  12.  
  13. Remove the bolt (1) from the rear engine pad
  14.  
  15. Remove the bolt (3) from the front engine pad
  16.  
  17. Remove the bolt and nut (2) from the torque rod.
  18.  

On the left side:

  1. Position a jack on the torque rod mounting in the transmission.
  2.  


NOTE
Use a wooden block as a shim.

  1. Remove the four bolts from the control arm
  2.  
  3. Remove the control arm.
  4.  

On the right side:

  1. Position a jack against the oil pan.
  2.  


NOTE
Use a wooden block as a shim.

  1. Lift the engine to access the control arm bolts.
  2.  
  3. Remove the four bolts (1) from the control arm
  4.  
  5. Remove the control arm.
  6.  

To install:

On the left side:

  1. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  2.  
  3. Lower and remove the jack.
  4.  

On the right side:

  1. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  2.  
  3. Lower and remove the mobile jack.
  4.  
  5. Install the two bolts (1) for the engine pad on the right side. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  6.  


NOTE
Use new bolts.

  1. Install the bolts (1, 3). Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Install the bolt and nut (2) for the torque rod. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Angle-tighten 40 deg.
  4.  


NOTE
Use a new bolt and nut.

  1. Clean the hub and the halfshaft splines.
  2.  
  3. Fold out and twist the spring strut and locate the halfshaft in the hub. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the control arm down.
  4.  
  5. Install a new halfshaft bolt. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg. Counterhold the brake disc.
  6.  


NOTE
Lubricate the threads and flange on the bolt.

  1. Check that the groove on the ball joint spindle lines up with the bolt hole in the wheel spindle.
  2.  


NOTE
Press the ball joint upwards so that the conical top is visible above the bolted joint on the wheel spindle. Use a new locknut in the wheel spindle bolt. Tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

  1. Install the wheel.
  2.  

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2.  
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel
     
    Lower ball joint
     
    Lower control arm
     

  4.  

To install:

  1. Install or connect the following:

    Lower control arm. Tighten the subframe bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) plus 120 degrees
     
    Lower ball joint. Tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) plus 90 degrees.
     
    Front wheel
     

  2.  
  3. Check the wheel alignment and adjust as necessary.
  4.  

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2.  
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel
     
    Lower ball joint
     
    Stabilizer bar link
     
    Locator rod
     
    Control arm
     

  4.  

To install:

  1. Install or connect the following:

    Control arm. Tighten the inner bolt to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
     
    Locator rod. Tighten the inner bolt to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm) and the control arm bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
     
    Stabilizer bar link.
     
    Lower ball joint. Tighten the nut to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
     
    Front wheel
     

  2.  
  3. Check the wheel alignment and adjust as necessary.
  4.  

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2.  
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel
     
    Lower ball joint
     
    Lower control arm
     

  4.  

To install:

  1. Install or connect the following:

    Lower control arm. Tighten the subframe bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) plus 120°
     
    Lower ball joint. Tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) plus 90°.
     
    Front wheel
     

  2.  
  3. Check the wheel alignment and adjust as necessary.
  4.  

  1. Remove the stub axle.
  2.  
  3. Remove the splash guard under the engine.
  4.  

On the left side:

  1. Remove the bolts and the nut from the control arm in the sub-frame
  2.  
  3. Remove the control arm.
  4.  

On the right side:

  1. Remove the hose from the EVAP canister and the fuel line from the engine block heater (where applicable). Move the hose and fuel line to one side.
    NOTE
    When removing the rear bolt on the front mounting from the control arm, the engine must be raised slightly using a prybar



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Lower control arm removal-V70XC

    Lower control arm removal-V70XC
  2.  
  3. Remove the bolts and nut from the control arm in the sub-frame
  4.  
  5. remove the control arm.
  6.  

To install:

  1. Lift the engine slightly when installing the right control arm. When installing the rear bolt in the front mounting for the control arm, see removing the right front control arm.
  2.  
  3. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts and a new nut.
  4.  
  5. Tighten the front bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  6.  
  7. Tighten the rear bolt and nut. Tighten to 80 ft. lbs. (105 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  8.  
  9. Install the stub axle.
  10.  
  11. Reinstall the splash guard under the engine.
  12.  
  13. Install the hose for the EVAP canister and the fuel line for the engine block heater (if applicable) in their mountings on the sub-frame.
  14.  

  1. Remove the front wheels
  2.  
  3. Remove the nut on the ball joint. Use a Torx® wrench as a counterhold so that the rubber boot is not damaged.
  4.  
  5. Remove the splash guard under the engine.
  6.  
  7. Install the retaining strap to bend the control arms down.
    WARNING
    Ensure that the tension strap is correctly secured in the control arms.

  8.  
  9. Pull down the control arms using a tension strap.
  10.  
  11. Release the spring strut from the control arm

    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Left lower control arm removal-S60, S80, V70

    Left lower control arm removal-S60, S80, V70

    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Right lower control arm removal-S60, S80, V70

    Right lower control arm removal-S60, S80, V70
  12.  
  13. Remove the tensioner strap.
  14.  
  15. Remove the bolt from the halfshaft. Use a counterhold on the brake disc
  16.  
  17. Remove the halfshaft from the hub. Knock the halfshaft out using a brass drift
  18.  
  19. Push the spring strut to one side.
  20.  

On the right side:

  1. Remove the hose from the EVAP canister and the fuel line from the engine block heater (where applicable) from their mountings. Move the hose and fuel line to one side.
  2.  
  3. Lift the engine approximately 10mm using a mobile jack so that the front 2 bolts on the control arm can be removed
  4.  
  5. Position a mobile jack with a universal plate under the oil pan on the right side of the engine.
  6.  
  7. Remove the bolts and the nut from the control arm in the sub-frame
  8.  
  9. Remove the control arm.
  10.  

On the left side:

  1. Lift the engine approximately 15mm using a mobile jack so that the front bolts on the control arm can be removed.
  2.  
  3. Position a mobile jack with a universal plate under the oil pan on the left side of the engine.
  4.  
  5. Remove the bolts and the nuts from the control arm in the sub-frame
  6.  
  7. Remove the control arm.
  8.  

To install:

On the right side:

  1. For the right-hand control arm, lift the engine 10mm using a mobile jack.
  2.  
  3. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts and a new nut
  4.  
  5. Tighten the front bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  6.  
  7. Tighten the rear bolt and nut. Tighten to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  8.  
  9. Remove the jack.
  10.  
  11. Install the hose at the EVAP canister and the fuel line for the engine block heater (if applicable) in their mountings on the sub-frame.
  12.  
  13. Reinstall the splash guard under the engine.
  14.  

On the left side:

  1. Lift the engine 15mm using a mobile jack.
  2.  
  3. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts and new nuts
  4.  
  5. Tighten the front bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  6.  
  7. Tighten the rear bolt and nut. Tighten to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  8.  
  9. Remove the mobile jack
  10.  
  11. Reinstall the splash guard under the engine.
  12.  
  13. Turn in the wheel spindle and locate the halfshaft in the hub.
    NOTE
    Check that the seal is not worn or damaged. Replace if necessary. Ensure that the sealing ring is correctly positioned on the halfshaft.

  14.  
  15. Clean the splines on the halfshaft.
  16.  
  17. Install the halfshaft in the hub.
  18.  
  19. Install a new bolt. Use a counterhold. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus 90 deg.
  20.  
  21. Install the retaining strap to bend the control arms down
    NOTE
    Ensure that the tension strap is correctly secured in the control arms.

  22.  
  23. Align the ball joints (1) in the control arm.
    NOTE
    Take care when releasing the tension strap.

  24.  
  25. Slowly release the control arms by releasing the tension strap.
  26.  
  27. Install a new nut
    NOTE
    The ball joint pinion must not rotate. Use a Torx® wrench as a counterhold so that the rubber boot is not damaged. Tighten to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).

  28.  
  29. Install the wheels.
  30.  

  1. Remove the stub axle and engine splash guard.
  2.  

On the left side:

  1. Remove the front engine mounting bolt.
  2.  
  3. Lift the left side of the engine approx. 1 inch (25mm) to expose the control arm bolt.
  4.  
  5. Remove the bolts for the control arm in the sub-frame and remove the control arm.
  6.  

On the right side:

  1. Remove the vibration damper, if equipped with a 6-cylinder engine.
  2.  
  3. Remove both right hand engine mounting bolts.
  4.  
  5. Lift up the ride side of the engine approx. 1 inch (25mm) to expose the control arm bolt.
  6.  
  7. Remove the bolts for the control arm in the sub-frame and remove the control arm.
  8.  

To install:

  1. Install the control arm on the sub-frame using new fasteners. Tighten the front bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) plus 90° and tighten the rear bolt to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) plus 90°.
  2.  

On the left side:

  1. Lower the engine and tighten the front engine mounting bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  2.  

On the right side:

  1. Lower the engine and tighten the right engine mounting bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus 90°.
  2.  
  3. Install the vibration damper using new bolts and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus 50°.
  4.  

Applies to either side:

  1. Install the stub axle and engine splash guard.
  2.  

  1. Remove the wheel
  2.  
  3. Remove the halfshaft bolt. Use a counterhold.
  4.  
  5. Detach the halfshaft end at the hub Tap in the shaft end approximately 10-15mm. Use a rubber or copper mallet.
  6.  
  7. Blow clean around the ball joint with compressed air.
  8.  
  9. Generously spray the ball joint and the bolt and nut retaining the ball joint using rust penetrator.
    NOTE
    Do not insert a screwdriver or punch between the ears on the wheel spindle.

  10.  
  11. If the bolt has rusted solid, slacken off the nut a few turns. Knock the bolt so that it loosens.
  12.  
  13. Remove the bolt and the nut.
  14.  
  15. Spray the ball joint with rust penetrator again.
    NOTE
    The inner diameter of the socket must be larger than the outer diameter of the cover. This is to prevent damage to the cover.

  16.  
  17. Tap the ball joint off the wheel spindle. Use a socket as a spacer.
  18.  
  19. Spray the ball joint with rust penetrator again.
  20.  
  21. Move the ball joint up and down by hand (or a jimmy bar can be used) until the ball joint detaches from the wheel spindle.
  22.  
  23. Withdraw the halfshaft from the hub.
  24.  
  25. Twist the spring strut to one side. Hang the halfshaft so that the control arm is not in contact with the halfshafts.
  26.  
  27. Remove the two bolts from the engine pad on the right side.
  28.  
  29. Remove the bolt (1) from the rear engine pad
  30.  
  31. Remove the bolt (3) from the front engine pad
  32.  
  33. Remove the bolt and nut (2) from the torque rod.
  34.  

On the left side:

  1. Position a jack on the torque rod mounting in the transmission.
    NOTE
    Use a wooden block as a shim.

  2.  
  3. Remove the four bolts from the control arm
  4.  
  5. Remove the control arm.
  6.  

On the right side:

  1. Position a jack against the oil pan.
    NOTE
    Use a wooden block as a shim.

  2.  
  3. Lift the engine to access the control arm bolts.
  4.  
  5. Remove the four bolts (1) from the control arm
  6.  
  7. Remove the control arm.
  8.  

To install:

On the left side:

  1. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  2.  
  3. Lower and remove the jack.
  4.  

On the right side:

  1. Install the control arm on the sub-frame. Use new bolts. Tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
  2.  
  3. Lower and remove the mobile jack.
  4.  
  5. Install the two bolts (1) for the engine pad on the right side. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg.
    NOTE
    Use new bolts.

  6.  
  7. Install the bolts (1, 3). Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  8.  
  9. Install the bolt and nut (2) for the torque rod. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Angle-tighten 40 deg.
    NOTE
    Use a new bolt and nut.

  10.  
  11. Clean the hub and the halfshaft splines.
  12.  
  13. Fold out and twist the spring strut and locate the halfshaft in the hub. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the control arm down.
  14.  
  15. Install a new halfshaft bolt. Tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). Angle-tighten 90 deg. Counterhold the brake disc.
    NOTE
    Lubricate the threads and flange on the bolt.

  16.  
  17. Check that the groove on the ball joint spindle lines up with the bolt hole in the wheel spindle.
    NOTE
    Press the ball joint upwards so that the conical top is visible above the bolted joint on the wheel spindle. Use a new locknut in the wheel spindle bolt. Tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

  18.  
  19. Install the wheel.
  20.  

  1. Raise the car.
  2.  
  3. Slacken off the ball joint nut as much as possible.
    NOTE
    Clean the ball joint thread using a wire brush. Use rust penetrator. If the ball joint releases in the cone, position a transmission jack under the control arm. Carefully lift (not more than so the front spring is in the resting position) until the cone jams. Remove the nut.

  4.  
  5. Remove the stud in the front edge
  6.  
  7. Remove the two bolts at the rear edge. Move the wheel to one side. Pull out the control arm from the cross member.
    NOTE
    Ensure that the halfshaft is not pulled out of the transmission.

  8.  
  9. Slacken off the nut positioned on the ball joint as much as possible. Press the rubber down.
    WARNING
    Secure the tool to prevent damage.

  10.  
  11. Press out the ball joint.
  12.  
  13. Remove the nut and draw out the control arm.

    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Support the torque rod with a jack-S40, V40

    Support the torque rod with a jack-S40, V40
  14.  

To install:


CAUTION
Replace the ball joint rubber ring if it is worn or damaged.

  1. Clean the area around the ball joint.
  2.  
  3. Remove the old rubber ring.
  4.  
  5. Lubricate the new ring and install it.
  6.  
  7. Ensure that the locking springs are correctly installed.
  8.  
  9. Install the control arm with the ball joint on the wheel spindle.
  10.  
  11. Install the control arm in the cross member. Install the bolt and nut.
  12.  
  13. Install the two bolts in the rear bushing.
  14.  
  15. Tighten all bolts and nuts by hand.
  16.  
  17. Post-tighten the two rear bolts. Tighten to 68 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  18.  
  19. Press the ball joint all the way down. Tighten to 51 ft. lbs. (67 Nm).
  20.  
  21. Remove the support and rock the car a few times so that the bushings come into the correct position.
  22.  
  23. Tighten the nut. Tighten to 68 ft. lbs. (90 Nm) plus  60 deg.
  24.  
  25. Check the front mounting and wheel alignment.
  26.  

Bushing Replacement



  1. Remove the bushing. Use a press. Lubricate the tool with soap water to facilitate removal.
  2.  
  3. Cut the bushing in the necessary places so that the tool can be correctly installed.
  4.  
  5. Press the bushing out of the control arm.
  6.  
  7. Using a press, press the new bushing into the control arm.
  8.  


NOTE
Do not press in more than the measured bushing position.


CAUTION
Caution! Ensure that the bushing is at the correct angle in the control arm.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Press the control arm bushing out of the control arm

Press the control arm bushing out of the control arm

The control arm bushings are serviced with the control arm as an assembly.

  1. Remove the bushing. Use a press. Lubricate the tool with soap water to facilitate removal.
  2.  
  3. Cut the bushing in the necessary places so that the tool can be correctly installed.
  4.  
  5. Press the bushing out of the control arm.
  6.  
  7. Using a press, press the new bushing into the control arm.
    NOTE
    Do not press in more than the measured bushing position.


    CAUTION
    Caution! Ensure that the bushing is at the correct angle in the control arm.



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Press the control arm bushing out of the control arm

    Press the control arm bushing out of the control arm
  8.  

 
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