Volvo Coupes/Sedans/Wagons 1970-1989 Repair Guide

Trunk Lid

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



2-Door and 4-Door models

See Figure 1

  1. Open the trunk lid. Have an assistant support the lid; remove the retaining clip for the gas shock (which holds the lid open) and disconnect it from the lid. On 1800 series, the lid is held open by two torsion rods. They need not be disconnected to remove the trunk lid.
  2.  
  3. Disengage any wiring to the trunk lid at the nearest connector. Make sure the wiring will not bind when the lid is removed.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the trunk lid and hinge

  1. Remove the bolts which hold the hinges to the trunk lid and lift the lid clear of the car. Use caution not to warp or dimple the lid. The hinges may then be unbolted from the body if desired, but this may require removing some cover panels for access to the bolts. On the 1800 series, the hinges and torsion rods are removed as a unit.
  2.  
  3. When reinstalling, the lid is placed in position and the bolts tightened only snug. Check the lid-to-body match and adjust the trunk lid as necessary.
  4.  
  5. Reconnect the gas shock to the trunk lid and reconnect the wiring, if any.
  6.  

Wagon (5-door) Models Except 1800 ES

See Figure 2


CAUTION
Because of the size and weight of the cargo door, this procedure REQUIRES two people during removal and installation.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the inner cover panel on the cargo door. Disengage any electrical connectors within the door. On the 145 model, remove the left license plate lamp and its electrical cable. Tag or identify the connectors for ease of reassembly.
  4.  
  5. Pull the harness through the hole in the top of the door.
  6.  
  7. Have your helper support the door; disconnect the gas shock(s) from the door. On the 145, disconnect the mechanical support on the opposite side as well.
  8.  



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Fig. Fig. 2: To remove the tailgate, disconnect the mechanical arm (1) and the gas shock (2)

  1. With the door well supported, remove the door-to-hinge bolts on each side at the top. On the 740, one of the bolts is beneath a rubber plug which must be removed. Carry the door away from the car and store on pads.
  2.  
  3. When reinstalling, install the bolts snug but not tight; check the alignment of the door in relation to the body and adjust the door as necessary. When the alignment is correct, tighten the hinge bolts. Left-right alignment is critical on the cargo door. Take your time and work for an even fit.
  4.  
  5. Connect the gas shock(s) to the door.
  6.  
  7. Feed the wire harness through the hole at the top of the door and into position. Connect the wires to the proper points. On the 145 series, reinstall the left license plate light.
  8.  

1800 ES

The hatch of the 1800 ES is all glass, with the hinges and latch mounted on rubber bushings. After disconnecting the wire for the defroster and removing the gas shock, the glass is removed by simply unbolting the hinge nuts and lifting the glass clear.

Extreme care must be taken not to hit or scratch the glass during removal. When reinstalling, correct placement of the rubber seals must be observed to avoid shattering the glass. At no time should any steel component come into direct contact with the glass. The mounting bolts should be tightened just enough to hold with no attempt made to overtighten.

ALIGNMENT



All Models

See Figures 3, 4 and 5

Both trunk lids and wagon doors are adjustable on their hinges due to slotted holes. The trunk lids are also adjustable by loosening the hinge-to-body bolts and repositioning the hinge vertically. The 1800 ES has only minimal adjustment in the glass mounts.



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Fig. Fig. 3: The station wagon rear cargo door is adjustable at the hinges

Wagon cargo doors have additional adjustors on the sides of the door. Loosen their screws a few turns and close the door. The adjustor should seek the correct position for smooth operation. Because of the curve of the body and roofline, the wagon door needs to be checked carefully for alignment to the body. Seams should be straight and even and panels should be flush with no obvious high or low points.



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Fig. Fig. 4: Adjustment may also be fine-tuned by loosening and sliding striker plate



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Fig. Fig. 5: Note the elongated holes in contrast to the mounting bolt holes-the black pen tracing allows you to put the striker back as found, if desired

Final adjustments are made at the latch (on the lid) and the striker (on the body). Each can be loosened and moved on its mounts to control tightness and ease of operation. It is recommended to start by loosening the striker only; close the lid and let the striker seek its position. (This maddening little job can drive you off the deep end after a few cycles of loosen it, tighten it, open it, close it.) Continue adjusting until the latch has no bind in its operation, the key turns freely and the weatherstrip is evenly compressed around the door.

 
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