REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figure 1
On all models, the ignition keylock is mounted on the steering column and incorporates a steering wheel lock to deter car theft. The lock is attached to the steering column by shearbolts, which have heads that were broken off when they were tightened to the proper torque specification at the factory. Removing the lock requires removing these bolts, either by cutting slots in their tops and using a screwdriver to extract them, or by drilling them out. If they are drilled out, the lock housing will probably be damaged. On many models, removing the ignition lock also requires loosening or removing the steering column. Because of the complexity of these operations, repairs are best left to a professional repair facility.
If your diagnosis of an electrical problem shows a failed ignition switch, the electrical part at the rear of the assembly can be changed on all 1975 and later models.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and gain access to the back of the ignition switch by removing panels and covers as necessary. Remove the round multi-wire connector at the back of the switch, then unfasten and remove the electrical unit (sometimes called the start contact) from the back of the lock assembly.
This unit is generally held on with two small screws, but they are in a difficult location and an awkward position--have patience. When reassembling, make certain that the new unit is properly seated against the pin from the ignition lock. Also insure that the wiring connector is firmly attached to the new start contact.
With this two part system, the only time you need to deal with the lock assembly is in cases of key and lock problems such as broken keys or binding tumblers within the lock.