REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
All Except Multi-link Suspension
See Figures 1 through 6
- Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
- Remove the applicable wheel.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the shoes, springs and hardware. If equipped with disc brakes:
- On models through 1975, place a wooden block beneath the brake pedal, plug the master cylinder reservoir vent hole, then remove and plug the brake line from the caliper. Be careful not to allow any brake fluid to spill onto the disc or pads. Remove the two bolts which retain the brake caliper to the axle housing, and lift off the caliper. Lift off the brake disc.
- On 1976 and later models, detach the brake line and bracket from the rear axle, then remove the mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Use a piece of stiff wire to hang the caliper, with brake line still attached, out of the way. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake line. Release the parking brake shoes as explained in Brakes .
- On all models, remove the thrust washer bolts through the holes in the axle shaft flange. Using a puller (slide hammer), remove the axle shaft, bearing and oil seal assembly. If a slide hammer is not available, you have a couple alternatives. The first option is the brake disc may be bolted onto the axle backwards (remember to mount the nuts tapered side out) and used to pull the axle free. Or you may use a crow bar with its fulcrum set on a sturdy part of the dust shield to push from behind the axle. Be careful not to bend the dust shield. Use of a wood block to distribute the force (see photos).
- Remove the inner oil seal (1974-on) with a suitable puller or small prybar.
- Using a press, remove the axle shaft bearing and its locking ring from the axle shaft. Remove and discard the old oil seal.
Some 700 series axles contain a toothed wheel used for sending speed data to the engine and other systems. This wheel must be removed in a press before removing the axle bearing and seal.
- The new bearing must be packed with grease before installation. The preferred method is with a bearing packer (a low cost tool available at most automotive supply shops) but it may be done by hand if necessary. The bearing must be packed from one side until the grease comes out the other side. It is very important that the bearing be completely packed with grease before installation.
- Fill the space between the lips of the new oil seal with wheel bearing grease. Position the new seal on the axle shaft. Using a press, install the bearing with a new locking ring, onto the axle shaft.
- Install the inner oil seal (1974-on) in the axle shaft housing using a seal installation tool (such as Volvo No. 5009 or similar) and drift.
- Install the axle shaft into the housing, rotating it so that it aligns with the differential. Install the bolts for the thrust washer and tighten to 36 ft. lbs.
- Install the brake disc, caliper and pads. If equipped with drum brakes, reinstall the shoes, springs and hardware.
- Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Retighten the lug nuts with the car on the ground.
See Figures 7 and 8
Because of the nature of the Multi-link suspension, component position and bolt tightening values (torque) are critical to ride quality and rear wheel alignment. When installing components, exact location must be achieved--close doesn't count. Tightening specifications must be followed exactly or component function will be impaired.
- Safely elevate the car on jackstands. Make sure the rear stands don't interfere with any of the suspension arms.
- Remove the wheel on the appropriate side. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and use a piece of wire to hang the caliper out of the way.
- Mark the position of the brake disc relative to its small locating pin, then remove the disc. Remove the brake shoes.
- Disconnect and remove the handbrake cable from the wheelbearing housing.
- Remove the retaining bolt for the support arm at the housing. Tap the support arm loose.
- Remove the nut and bolt holding the lower link arm to the housing.
- Remove the retaining bolt for the track rod (Panhard rod) at the bearing housing and use a small claw-type puller to remove the track rod.
- Loosen and remove the large nut holding the end of the driveshaft within the bearing housing.
- Remove the retaining nut for the upper link at the bearing housing. The wheel bearing housing can now be removed as a unit.
There are shims between the bearing housing and the upper link arm. Collect them when the housing is removed.
- Mount the housing assembly in a vise. Using Volvo tool No. 5340 or similar, apply a counterhold between the hub and bearing housing. Press out the hub with a proper sized drift.
- With the hub removed, the circlip holding the bearing in the housing can be removed. Press the bearing out of the housing.
- Use a bearing puller (such as Volvo No. 2722 or similar) and a counterhold (Volvo No. 5310 or similar) to pull the inner ring off the hub.
- To reinstall, press in the new bearing using a drift and counterhold and install the circlip.
- Using a counterhold below the inner ring, press the hub into place.
- Install the wheel bearing housing onto the driveshaft and install the driveshaft retaining nut. Get the nut secure but don't try to torque it--that will be done later.
- Install the shims between the upper link and the wheel bearing housing and then install the retaining nut at the upper link.
- Pull the wheel bearing housing outwards at the top and tighten the upper link arm nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm). This pulling out is essential to insure correct wheel alignment when completed.
- Tilt the bearing housing outwards at the bottom (as necessary) to refit the lower link arm and it retaining bolt. When in place, pull the bottom of the bearing housing inwards (towards the center of the car) and tighten the link arm to 36 ft.lbs. PLUS an additional 90° of rotation.
- Install the support arm and its bolt. Tighten the nut to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) PLUS an additional 90° of rotation.
- Install the track rod (Panhard rod) and tighten to 63 ft. lbs.
- Reinstall the handbrake cable at the bearing housing.
- Reinstall the brake shoes, the brake disc as marked and the brake caliper. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 44 ft. lbs.
- Install the wheel, tightening the lugs to 60-62 ft. lbs. (81-84 Nm). Lower the car to the ground.
- Tighten the driveshaft nut to 103 ft.lbs (140 Nm) PLUS 60° of rotation.