Timken/Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly-Front

Vehicle Specific
Part Number: HA590263K
Warranty: 3 YR
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Ships within 1-2 business days.
Price: $74.99
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Product Details
Part Number: HA590263K
Weight: 5.55 lbs
Warranty: 3 YR
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
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    Timken/Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly-Front


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    This review is hidden because you have chosen to ignore Member 1276622951. Show DetailsHide Details

    Front wheel hub bearings

    I ordered the parts to be shipped to my house. I am not sure why I could not get them shipped to the store. The parts came in a couple of days, approx. 4 or 5. Spent the first full day getting the front end apart. This is a east coast car with salt, and it is 10 years old. Spent most of the time getting the lower ball joint apart. The tie rod was not bad. The strut was not that bad either.

    Once the steering knuckle was off ( using puller for axle shaft, light pull). The battle began with the large snap ring. Pound down all around with a flat dull chisel to break rust bond. Then with a nail punch sprung snap ring at holes toward center of ring to free up rust bond. Now I could use snap ring pliers to remove the large ring that is close to 3" in dia.

    After reading the book I now pressed the hub out of the bearing. Not a hard press, but did take a little time to get the bub supported correctly for a straight press. The inner bearing race, or the one half stayed on the hub.
    Had a little battle to get it off the old hub.
    heat it up with just a hand propane torch and cold chisel to get it off the back shoulder. Just needed the inner race to put back on the old bearing for something to press out the old bearing. Took a little over 2 1/2 ton to break free. Now spent 45 min to 1 hour scraping the boar and snap ring grove clean. A little sanding and wire brushing to make sure the boar was clean and ready for the new bearing, and that I would not drag any loose rust flakes into the boar that would cause the bearing not to sit correctly. Had to turn a large piece of pipe. I think 2 1/2 sch 40 on the lathe to 2.825" for 5/8 long on a 3" long piece. Reason is the outer bearing race has a very small area to press on. Not having the correct size you would run a high risk of damage to the new bearing. I only want to do this once. I am at 99,500 miles now, so if I do this right I hope I never have to do it again. I would have to think that most of the early bearing failures are due to damage to the new bearing or it not sitting correctly in the boar. This is hard to do with a hammer and sections of muffler pipe. That is for a bearing of this size. After that I coated the boar with fluid film or oil, and pressed the new bearing in to the shoulder. Next supporting the inner race I pressed the new hub into the inner race. Then installed the new snap ring into the clean grove. I coated all parts with fluid film or oil after wire brushing etc. I installed everything back on the car with little effort.

    One of the nice things when you order the bearing with the new hub is that you also get a new snap ring and axle nut.

    Pros: Same part number as original hub bearing.

    Cons: Not a job for the backyard mechanic. Need press, and correct size tubes to press correctly.

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