Jeep Cherokee Camshaft Position Sensor

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1-11 of 11 Results

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      Cam Position sensor replacement shaft experiences

      JJJay

      in 4 months

      I have purchased two of these in recent years, for different motors. The first one I bought I needed the whole assembly because the upper bearing failed on my original, so it would get hot enough on long trips to melt the actual sensor, dislodging the magnet (note you can glue it back in as a temporary fix... ask me how I know) at which point the Jeep wouldn't restart. I was out of town on that trip and my motel happened to be next to an AutoZone. I knew what I needed and was pleasantly surprised that I could get the whole shaft assembly AND the sensor for the same cost as just the sensor elsewhere. I called that store to order it, and they had it in the next day. I was going to replace it in the parking lot when I hit my first snag... the precision diameter below the flange had not been turned! It was as-cast, so I had to re-install my old one. I took the new one to a shop and had it turned to the correct diameter. In a different situation I would have had the store get me another one for the next day. The second one I got most recently dropped right in with no problems. It even comes with an alignment tool which I didn't use... because... if you are careful to mark, take notes, take pictures of the sensor position before AND AS you take it out (the helical gear will turn the sensor as you lift) you can align the new one and drop it in the same. The tab on the bottom is the oil pump driver, and will likely not match your old one's position. Use a long flat screwdriver to get it close. If the shaft doesn't easily drop all of the way in it is because the oil pump isn't lined up close enough.

      What kind of vehicle do you drive? 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ

      I have purchased two of these in recent years, for different motors. The first one I bought I needed the whole assembly because the upper bearing failed on my original, so it would get hot enough on long trips to melt the actual sensor, dislodging the magnet (note you can glue it back in as a temporary fix... ask me how I know) at which point the Jeep wouldn't restart. I was out of town on that trip and my motel happened to be next to an AutoZone. I knew what I needed and was pleasantly surprised that I could get the whole shaft assembly AND the sensor for the same cost as just the sensor elsewhere. I called that store to order it, and they had it in the next day. I was going to replace it in the parking lot when I hit my first snag... the precision diameter below the flange had not been turned! It was as-cast, so I had to re-install my old one. I took the new one to a shop and had it turned to the correct diameter. In a different situation I would have had the store get me another one for the next day. The second one I got most recently dropped right in with no problems. It even comes with an alignment tool which I didn't use... because... if you are careful to mark, take notes, take pictures of the sensor position before AND AS you take it out (the helical gear will turn the sensor as you lift) you can align the new one and drop it in the same. The tab on the bottom is the oil pump driver, and will likely not match your old one's position. Use a long flat screwdriver to get it close. If the shaft doesn't easily drop all of the way in it is because the oil pump isn't lined up close enough.

      What kind of vehicle do you drive? 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ